After having virtually all water/exhaust hoses replaced, I now have water spritzing from an unknown [to me] part at the top of a steel "U" shaped tube near the heat exchanger. The part in question is a plastic thing with two hex nuts and something that looks like a mini filter ... all of which is no more than 2 1/2 inches long. Will someone name the part for me, and/or tell me what to do to stop the spritzing? Thanks! Dee
Water spritzing from "U" piece on top of 2GM20F
- Thread starter Dee Doyle
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Anti syphon loop vent
I believe you are talking about a raw water line that comes out of the heat exchanger and dumps into the mixing elbow. It is called an anti-siphon loop and keeps any water from back siphoning into the boat. It has a fixture at the top of the loop that gets clogged by minerals. The fix is real easy. Unscrew the fixture and take out the little rubber "reed valve". Note the orientation of the reed valve as you must reinstall it correctly for the loop to operate properly. Thoroughly clean everything. You can test it by blowing through it in both directions. No air should flow "out" of the fixture but air should flow "into" it. These valves should be maintenance on a regular schedule.
I believe you are talking about a raw water line that comes out of the heat exchanger and dumps into the mixing elbow. It is called an anti-siphon loop and keeps any water from back siphoning into the boat. It has a fixture at the top of the loop that gets clogged by minerals. The fix is real easy. Unscrew the fixture and take out the little rubber "reed valve". Note the orientation of the reed valve as you must reinstall it correctly for the loop to operate properly. Thoroughly clean everything. You can test it by blowing through it in both directions. No air should flow "out" of the fixture but air should flow "into" it. These valves should be maintenance on a regular schedule.
re Clean Everything
To tag onto to Bill's great detailed reply, re "clean everything", I'd add that one should also clean any salt off the engine and motor mounts otherwise the salt water will cause rust. Maybe someone here could recommend a better way to do it but I'd get an aerosol can of something with light weight oil, say, WD40?, and squirt everyting down and try to wipe the surfaces with a soft oily cloth then squirt it down again.
To tag onto to Bill's great detailed reply, re "clean everything", I'd add that one should also clean any salt off the engine and motor mounts otherwise the salt water will cause rust. Maybe someone here could recommend a better way to do it but I'd get an aerosol can of something with light weight oil, say, WD40?, and squirt everyting down and try to wipe the surfaces with a soft oily cloth then squirt it down again.
Thanks for the pix and the advice!
You guys are good! Thanks! Will do as you suggest, and buy Vetus at West Marine ... [Like your thought process re new one vs. struggling with fixing old one. That's what i have done with heads too!
BTW, I DO "clean" salt water, gunge, etc., often. After having hoses replaced, no water leaks until yesterday! The guy that replaced exhaust hose for me turned the mixing elbow, so as to be more accessible the next time. Am thinking the existing anti-siphon loop vent got "hit' as a result. Thanks again! D~
You guys are good! Thanks! Will do as you suggest, and buy Vetus at West Marine ... [Like your thought process re new one vs. struggling with fixing old one. That's what i have done with heads too!
BTW, I DO "clean" salt water, gunge, etc., often. After having hoses replaced, no water leaks until yesterday! The guy that replaced exhaust hose for me turned the mixing elbow, so as to be more accessible the next time. Am thinking the existing anti-siphon loop vent got "hit' as a result. Thanks again! D~Anti siphon valve and clean up
Another name for the anti-siphon valve is a vacuum breaker. It prevents pressure diferentials, however slight, from starting siphon flow in the opposite direction from what is intended. Best to wash down first with fresh water. Then dry thoroughly. If you want then you can treat with Ospho in case there was any exposed metal starting to rust. This will stop the rust dead in its tracks. 2 coats of ospho is better if you don't intend to paint. Once the Ospho dries completely then coat all exposed metals with Pennzoil Z-M. You won't need to be concerned about rusting for a long time. Get acquainted with OSHPO - it will greatly enhance your maintenence program. Also, the little vacuum breakers sometimes remain inactive (not cycling) for many years and get stiff. I usually remove them once a year and blow through them to free them up-then check to see if they will seal. If they are OK I give a little shot of CRC -656 to retard deterioration fo the elastomer parts. Haven't had a failure on one yet. Put these often neglected parts on your PM checklist.
Another name for the anti-siphon valve is a vacuum breaker. It prevents pressure diferentials, however slight, from starting siphon flow in the opposite direction from what is intended. Best to wash down first with fresh water. Then dry thoroughly. If you want then you can treat with Ospho in case there was any exposed metal starting to rust. This will stop the rust dead in its tracks. 2 coats of ospho is better if you don't intend to paint. Once the Ospho dries completely then coat all exposed metals with Pennzoil Z-M. You won't need to be concerned about rusting for a long time. Get acquainted with OSHPO - it will greatly enhance your maintenence program. Also, the little vacuum breakers sometimes remain inactive (not cycling) for many years and get stiff. I usually remove them once a year and blow through them to free them up-then check to see if they will seal. If they are OK I give a little shot of CRC -656 to retard deterioration fo the elastomer parts. Haven't had a failure on one yet. Put these often neglected parts on your PM checklist.
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