Hi all, I recently bought a 32' Columbia. The water pump comes on all through the night for 5-6 loud seconds. Why does it do that and can it be stopped. It's annoying.
Water Pump Noise
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Yup, A pressure leak. Either in the lines leading away from the pump or the pressure pump itself . Start at the pump and trace lines. When ya find the leaking fitting, usually it can be tightened to stop the leak and the cycling pump. Typically, the pulses from the pump loosen the fittings over time.. Have fun crawling around in there !!!
One more..
As others have stated you most likely have a slow leak somewhere in the supply piping. Why do you leave the switch on when not using water?
As others have stated you most likely have a slow leak somewhere in the supply piping. Why do you leave the switch on when not using water?
If it's a diaphragm pump...
My money is on a failing diaphragm, not a link in the plumbing. As the diaphragm ages it begins to develop weak spots in the rubber...one of the weak spots turns into a tiny hole that allows the pressure to drop, causing the pump to cycle...at first maybe very briefly--sort of a "brrrp"--no more often than once every few hours...then as the hole or tear gets larger, more frequently and longer...until finally the pump runs continuously and ceases to pump any water. Based on my own experience with a diaphragm water pump that failed, yours is getting very close to complete failure.
You can put a new diaphragm in it for about $15. Or you can replace the pump for <$100. I bought a new pump AND a diaphragm kit...installed the new one, kept the repaired one as a spare.
My money is on a failing diaphragm, not a link in the plumbing. As the diaphragm ages it begins to develop weak spots in the rubber...one of the weak spots turns into a tiny hole that allows the pressure to drop, causing the pump to cycle...at first maybe very briefly--sort of a "brrrp"--no more often than once every few hours...then as the hole or tear gets larger, more frequently and longer...until finally the pump runs continuously and ceases to pump any water. Based on my own experience with a diaphragm water pump that failed, yours is getting very close to complete failure.
You can put a new diaphragm in it for about $15. Or you can replace the pump for <$100. I bought a new pump AND a diaphragm kit...installed the new one, kept the repaired one as a spare.
hot water heater?
Thanks all. I just asked the plumber who installed a new hot water heater and new tanks last week. He says when the hot water cools overnight the pressure decreases causing the pump to kick back on.
Thanks all. I just asked the plumber who installed a new hot water heater and new tanks last week. He says when the hot water cools overnight the pressure decreases causing the pump to kick back on.
Nope...I don't buy that explanation.
If that were true, everyone who has a diaphragm water pump on a boat that also has a water heater would experience the same thing you are every night they're away from the dock...But they aren't. And, if it were true, it wouldn't happen when the boat is in the slip on shore power keeping the water hot...but I bet it does...and also that the pump cycles even when the water in the water heater is cold.
It's the pump, not the water heater, than keeps the system pressurized. An air leak in the diaphragm--or maybe a failing pressure switch (but diaphragm failure is more common)--will cause the pressure to drop, causing the pump to cycle.
If that were true, everyone who has a diaphragm water pump on a boat that also has a water heater would experience the same thing you are every night they're away from the dock...But they aren't. And, if it were true, it wouldn't happen when the boat is in the slip on shore power keeping the water hot...but I bet it does...and also that the pump cycles even when the water in the water heater is cold.
It's the pump, not the water heater, than keeps the system pressurized. An air leak in the diaphragm--or maybe a failing pressure switch (but diaphragm failure is more common)--will cause the pressure to drop, causing the pump to cycle.
Ahhh Haaa new water tank.. I had a bad Pressure/Temperature valve on my tank that would drool when on shore power, causing the pump to cycle some. You could also have an air pocket in the tank causing that, because the air expands and contracts a lot compared to water. Open the hot water taps wide and let them run until it quits spitting. That will get the air out of the tank. Plumber could have left a fitting or two loose. Check that. Then look at and feel the pump, if it is wet then Peggy has it nailed. Or maybe check the pump first..
I don't think feeling the pump will tell you anything, Claude
When the diaphragm in my water pump failed, there was no moisture on the pump housing. It only takes a pinhole sized hole/tear in the diaphragm inside the pump housing to keep the pump from pumping any water...and it's an air leak, not a water leak.
If the discharge fitting on the tank or the hose connection to the pump is leaking, there would be moisture around it. But I don't think an air pocket in the tank is the culprit because the discharge is at the bottom of the tank...never heard of an air pocket under water. But it IS possible that, if he doesn't have enough water in the tank to completely cover the discharge port, when the boat rocks enough to expose it, that could cause the pump to cycle. But not if the tank is half full or more.
Air in the lines shouldn't cause the pump to cycle...but whether air in the lines has anything to do with the pump cycling or not, after a tank has been empty, both hot and cold water should always be allowed to run through every faucet on the boat long enough to bleed all the air out of the system.
A key question: How old is the pump?
When the diaphragm in my water pump failed, there was no moisture on the pump housing. It only takes a pinhole sized hole/tear in the diaphragm inside the pump housing to keep the pump from pumping any water...and it's an air leak, not a water leak.
If the discharge fitting on the tank or the hose connection to the pump is leaking, there would be moisture around it. But I don't think an air pocket in the tank is the culprit because the discharge is at the bottom of the tank...never heard of an air pocket under water. But it IS possible that, if he doesn't have enough water in the tank to completely cover the discharge port, when the boat rocks enough to expose it, that could cause the pump to cycle. But not if the tank is half full or more.
Air in the lines shouldn't cause the pump to cycle...but whether air in the lines has anything to do with the pump cycling or not, after a tank has been empty, both hot and cold water should always be allowed to run through every faucet on the boat long enough to bleed all the air out of the system.
A key question: How old is the pump?
Next time you're cruising, pressurize the system before falling asleep. When you wake in the morning, turn a faucet. If there's pressure, your plumbing is tight. No pressure and you have a leak.
But Maine Sail's right - you shouldn't leave the pump on all night.
But Maine Sail's right - you shouldn't leave the pump on all night.
I disagree with Maine about that
I've always left my fresh water pump on from the time I come aboard till I leave the boat. In fact, even when I was away from the if the ice maker was empty when I left. As long as it's on, there's -0- wear and tear on the pump except when a faucet is opened. Otoh, every time it's turned on it has to work to repressurize the system. The more work it has to do, the shorter its lifespan.
It makes no more sense to turn off the water pump on and off every time you need water or overnight than it does to turn off your water at home at the meter when you leave for the weekend.
However, NONE of the above applies to dock water connections! Dock water should be turned off ON THE DOCK any time you leave the boat, even for an hour or when you go to bed. 'Cuz there are only two kinds of pressure reducers--those that have failed, and those that will...and you need to be aboard and awake to hear the FIRST sounds of gushing water in the bilge when it does.
I've always left my fresh water pump on from the time I come aboard till I leave the boat. In fact, even when I was away from the if the ice maker was empty when I left. As long as it's on, there's -0- wear and tear on the pump except when a faucet is opened. Otoh, every time it's turned on it has to work to repressurize the system. The more work it has to do, the shorter its lifespan.
It makes no more sense to turn off the water pump on and off every time you need water or overnight than it does to turn off your water at home at the meter when you leave for the weekend.
However, NONE of the above applies to dock water connections! Dock water should be turned off ON THE DOCK any time you leave the boat, even for an hour or when you go to bed. 'Cuz there are only two kinds of pressure reducers--those that have failed, and those that will...and you need to be aboard and awake to hear the FIRST sounds of gushing water in the bilge when it does.
Peggy
In my situation the hot water outlet hose on my hot water tank blew off the fitting because for some reason Catalina did not use a barbed fitting.
We were anchored off an idyllic Maine Island stuck with no water. It ruined our day to motor in no wind 16 miles to fill up with water again after repairing the leak. When we were off taking some photos in the dinghy the water pump drained our entire supply into the bilge. If we had not come back when we did we would have burned out the pump or killed the batteries.
Boats are very different from homes but even I turn off my house water supply when we leave for a weekend or a vacation. In Maine we have this thing called winter so for many turning off the water supply when they leave is not uncommon. Loose power but still have city water pressure and you'll freeze and flood your house. Turn off the water supply and all you'll do is freeze the pipe..
Homes do not move or vibrate nearly as much as a boat does. Many boats use cheap PVC water hoses and have water heaters heated directly off an engine that can reach a dangerous 180 degrees, or what ever the operating temp of the engine is, causing tremendous pressures on these cheap PVC hoses.
Turning off the pump is prudent practice for more important reasons than just the lifespan of the pump. Tim R. & I are two prime examples of why and we are also both quite fastidious about maintenance of all systems. If it can happen to both of us it can happen to anyone. When we are in the cabin hanging out or making breakfast, lunch or dinner the pump stays on when we are underway it is off and when we go to bed we turn it off. We have a switch to turn the pump on right in the galley so it does not require a trip to the panel.
As for short pump life I'd worry far more about the vast majority of boat owners who don't use an expansion / accumulator tank to reduce pump cycling than I would about the ones who flip it off when not in use for safety reasons. In our current boat if we drained 85 gallons of water into the bilge we'd loose more than just water, we'd severely damage the cabin sole and other items. In an ideal world boat plumbing systems would be as reliable as home systems but the environments are totally different and unfortunately they don't seem to be..
My boat is now PEX plumbed, not cheap PVC, but I still turn it off when going to bed seeing as Tim's failure was under the cabin sole where he could not see it...
I know more than a few folks including both myself and Tim R. another forum member who have lost all their on board water when a hose parted, failed or leaked.
In my situation the hot water outlet hose on my hot water tank blew off the fitting because for some reason Catalina did not use a barbed fitting.
We were anchored off an idyllic Maine Island stuck with no water. It ruined our day to motor in no wind 16 miles to fill up with water again after repairing the leak. When we were off taking some photos in the dinghy the water pump drained our entire supply into the bilge. If we had not come back when we did we would have burned out the pump or killed the batteries. Boats are very different from homes but even I turn off my house water supply when we leave for a weekend or a vacation. In Maine we have this thing called winter so for many turning off the water supply when they leave is not uncommon. Loose power but still have city water pressure and you'll freeze and flood your house. Turn off the water supply and all you'll do is freeze the pipe..
Homes do not move or vibrate nearly as much as a boat does. Many boats use cheap PVC water hoses and have water heaters heated directly off an engine that can reach a dangerous 180 degrees, or what ever the operating temp of the engine is, causing tremendous pressures on these cheap PVC hoses.
Turning off the pump is prudent practice for more important reasons than just the lifespan of the pump. Tim R. & I are two prime examples of why and we are also both quite fastidious about maintenance of all systems. If it can happen to both of us it can happen to anyone. When we are in the cabin hanging out or making breakfast, lunch or dinner the pump stays on when we are underway it is off and when we go to bed we turn it off. We have a switch to turn the pump on right in the galley so it does not require a trip to the panel.
As for short pump life I'd worry far more about the vast majority of boat owners who don't use an expansion / accumulator tank to reduce pump cycling than I would about the ones who flip it off when not in use for safety reasons. In our current boat if we drained 85 gallons of water into the bilge we'd loose more than just water, we'd severely damage the cabin sole and other items. In an ideal world boat plumbing systems would be as reliable as home systems but the environments are totally different and unfortunately they don't seem to be..
My boat is now PEX plumbed, not cheap PVC, but I still turn it off when going to bed seeing as Tim's failure was under the cabin sole where he could not see it...
The secret to a good working pressure water system is maintenance. Frequently inspect hoses, connectors and clamps and promptly correct any leaks. A well maintained system is one that can be trusted. Turning the pump off after every use shows a lack of trust on the maintenance or the knowledge that there is a leak that has not been fixed. I have been in boats where the owner does turn the pump off and and it quickly becomes a circus act with people yelling "Is the water on?" "Could you please turn the water on." "Never mind it was on" or walking around in circles from the head to the control panel and back or from the galley carrying pans to the panel and back. I do agree that if you are stepping off the boat there is no reason to leave it on. My philosophy on this is that taking out a few gallons of water that may leak out of the tank can be less of a hassle than worrying about wether the water is on or not. Remember the secret, "Fix them leaks"
It is for all of the disasters mentioned here that I advocate a push to start automatic shutoff for the pressure water on a boat. I can think of no greater problem that does not involve fire or sinking worse than the loss of the drinking water on a boat.
We have lived aboard and extensively cruised our boat for 17 years and tens of thousands of miles. and in that time the pump has been off three times and that was to replace it. I know of no one else that constantly turns the pump on and off. If you need to do this then you need to do some serious maintenance instead of worrying about the pump. If a fitting fails it is not the pumps fault.
A loss of pressure activating the pump switch need not be caused by a leak from the system. The pumps works by taking water from the suction side and pumping to the discharge side (the pipes between .and f.aucet) and when a predetermined pressure is reached by closing the faucet, the pressure operated switch turns the pump off. Pressure drops, pump turns on. Given no leaks on the pressure side of the pump, water could drain back to the tank if the non return valve in the pump is leaking slightly. It could require cleaning or replacing. Leaks on the suction side will not cause the pump to start as a rule. Cheers, Mike.
I see this as a matter of preference, some people like to turn it of, some like to leave it on. I am one of those that turns it off, its just my training. At home I am known as the light police, because I am constantly turning lights off. It's my nature. To me it doesn't take any effort to flip a switch on and off. We all know as sailors, you can do as much maintenance until the ships come home, things will always break. I rather reduce the probability of draining out my tank or my batteries by turning it off at the source. Like I said, "it's just me"
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