The wood floor in my 1986 Hunter 34 in front of the stove was constantly getting wet. I couldn't figure out where the water was coming from, and the bilge pump was circulating every ten minutes. First check the water heater connections (with the engine on) on the side closest to the starboard side. You will have to remove the wood cover covering the water heater (just the outside screws) to see that side of the heater. If that is dry then you need to check the bilge hose. The factory hose is very poor quality. Mine, I found, was brittle and had a tear in it where you could not see. When the bilge pump went on part of the discharged water would spew underneath the floor and drain back into the bilge. So, check for water coming out from underneath the starboard side of the bilge-put your finger along the side of the bilge and see if you are able to dam up the water-esp right after or during a bilge pump out. My bilge pump was simply recalculating itself. I replaced the hose with a new 1” one, and bypassed the old route by drilling a hole next to the port side of the water heater and rerouting the hose above the floor through the hole and around the water heater and up. I boiled a big pot of water, put the hose in and was able to bend it by heating it up. When you are all through check the connections, esp. the ones around the check valve-I put two clamps on each end to keep water from creeping out-poor a bucket of water in the bilge to check it. Lastly, I put the check valve next to the water heater rather in the bilge. Might be a good idea to get a new check valve-good luck.
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Another thing that will show up on the galley
floor is water leaking from the exhaust hose. This only happens when the engine is running of course.
floor is water leaking from the exhaust hose. This only happens when the engine is running of course.
Correction
You don't have to unscrew the top covering the water heater to check if it is leaking and that should be: recirculating
You don't have to unscrew the top covering the water heater to check if it is leaking and that should be: recirculating
Wet Galley
The drain hose from the ice box to the bilge goes under tha galley floor and is due for replacement. You'll find NO INSULATION under the ice box where it is mst critical. Also water from the engine sump gets there when the vessel heals to starboard and has no way out once it gets wet.
The drain hose from the ice box to the bilge goes under tha galley floor and is due for replacement. You'll find NO INSULATION under the ice box where it is mst critical. Also water from the engine sump gets there when the vessel heals to starboard and has no way out once it gets wet.
Question
How do you check for these leaks? Do you have to pull the galley floor up? Also, how do you get to the underside of the refer?
How do you check for these leaks? Do you have to pull the galley floor up? Also, how do you get to the underside of the refer?
This is the most inaccessible spot on the H34
Under the ice box that is. On my boat the factory cut a big hole into the forward edge of the oil drip pan under the engine. They used it to route battery cables and the bilge pump wires. As such, the drip pan held NO drips, or leaks. Everything went into the bilge to be sent overboard by the pump. That's illegal. The drip pan can't be violated like that now. It would be a major crime. Mine is fixed. To add insulation under the ice box, you might try drilling an access hole from the engine compartment for those straw sized tubes that come with spray foam cans. I would recommend a half dozen cans. Start filling and don't stop until you see foam coming out of a small hole that you also drilled in a panel opposite the fill hole. I recommend the area near the hull and under the stove. But that's your call. If you are out to really make a MESS, this job is the best way. Of course, if the drain hose needs replacement,,,forget it. Tear out the galley, including the floor. Take the galley out by first removing the laminate on the ice box counter top. Then you will see the mounting screws. This is major work. Plan on spending a month. But then the bottom of the box can be insulated more safely. Where the trash bin is located on a stock H34 is my freezer. If you're tearing up the galley, you might want to explore that option. All of that because of a leaky drain hose? An easier fix is to plug the hose drain. If you use ice, vacuum the water with one of those West Marine oil change pumps. Only use it for water because you'll have to dump it overboard. Or install a refer and clean the box with soap and water applied with a sponge. Now to check for other leaks. First dump some water into the bilge to make the pump run. Have the area around the discharge hose opened up so that you can inspect for leaks. That's easy. Next, with the engine running, climb into the cockpit storage compartment. Take a bright lantern and a mirror on a stick. Inspect the exhaust hose for leaks. A hole in the hose may be running below without being visible on the locker floor. But chances are you will get a wet butt if the hose is bad. Also check from the engine to the muffler and back to the beam that the hose passes through. Then if you don't see anything and water is still moving to the bilge pump, the hose might be bad where it passes inside the beam. Yep, mine was! Well that covers most leaks that end up on the galley floor. But then there's the old leaky cockpit drain hose,,let's see, did you install a stern shower? Ports all sealed up? No extraneous holes in the cockpit for goodies like speakers or vent hoses??
Under the ice box that is. On my boat the factory cut a big hole into the forward edge of the oil drip pan under the engine. They used it to route battery cables and the bilge pump wires. As such, the drip pan held NO drips, or leaks. Everything went into the bilge to be sent overboard by the pump. That's illegal. The drip pan can't be violated like that now. It would be a major crime. Mine is fixed. To add insulation under the ice box, you might try drilling an access hole from the engine compartment for those straw sized tubes that come with spray foam cans. I would recommend a half dozen cans. Start filling and don't stop until you see foam coming out of a small hole that you also drilled in a panel opposite the fill hole. I recommend the area near the hull and under the stove. But that's your call. If you are out to really make a MESS, this job is the best way. Of course, if the drain hose needs replacement,,,forget it. Tear out the galley, including the floor. Take the galley out by first removing the laminate on the ice box counter top. Then you will see the mounting screws. This is major work. Plan on spending a month. But then the bottom of the box can be insulated more safely. Where the trash bin is located on a stock H34 is my freezer. If you're tearing up the galley, you might want to explore that option. All of that because of a leaky drain hose? An easier fix is to plug the hose drain. If you use ice, vacuum the water with one of those West Marine oil change pumps. Only use it for water because you'll have to dump it overboard. Or install a refer and clean the box with soap and water applied with a sponge. Now to check for other leaks. First dump some water into the bilge to make the pump run. Have the area around the discharge hose opened up so that you can inspect for leaks. That's easy. Next, with the engine running, climb into the cockpit storage compartment. Take a bright lantern and a mirror on a stick. Inspect the exhaust hose for leaks. A hole in the hose may be running below without being visible on the locker floor. But chances are you will get a wet butt if the hose is bad. Also check from the engine to the muffler and back to the beam that the hose passes through. Then if you don't see anything and water is still moving to the bilge pump, the hose might be bad where it passes inside the beam. Yep, mine was! Well that covers most leaks that end up on the galley floor. But then there's the old leaky cockpit drain hose,,let's see, did you install a stern shower? Ports all sealed up? No extraneous holes in the cockpit for goodies like speakers or vent hoses??
Access
To get access to the bottom of the ice box I used a Rotozip to cut a hole 4-5 inches and added a round inspection port. I like Fred's idea about relocating the ice box. Putting the ice box next to the hot engine is poor engineering
To get access to the bottom of the ice box I used a Rotozip to cut a hole 4-5 inches and added a round inspection port. I like Fred's idea about relocating the ice box. Putting the ice box next to the hot engine is poor engineering
Rotting floor - water coming from below
Since there is so much interest on this subject I thought I might explain something about the sole area in the galley. I first noticed the wood floor was rotting just left of the stove on my 34. So I dug that area up with a chisel. There is a small opening in the bilge area (if I can call it that) that allows water to push up against the raw plywood floor right below where the rotting occurs. I don't know if I am making myself clear, but the “water” I first referred to in the original post is not water that is coming from above but rather from below, esp. when the boat is heeling over on the port tack. We all know that the 34 heels to the starboard even when in dock (thank that to the engineers who designed the boat). So for all you folks whose floors are rotting away at least you know where it's coming from. What I did to fix that problem was to stick a piece of stiff plastic over the hole and used bondo to patch it up-took about three layers. I thought about painting the whole floor but the other day I saw a sheet floor covering that was grey with one inch wide bumps all over it. Does anyone know what I'm talking about-I've seen it on other boats.
Since there is so much interest on this subject I thought I might explain something about the sole area in the galley. I first noticed the wood floor was rotting just left of the stove on my 34. So I dug that area up with a chisel. There is a small opening in the bilge area (if I can call it that) that allows water to push up against the raw plywood floor right below where the rotting occurs. I don't know if I am making myself clear, but the “water” I first referred to in the original post is not water that is coming from above but rather from below, esp. when the boat is heeling over on the port tack. We all know that the 34 heels to the starboard even when in dock (thank that to the engineers who designed the boat). So for all you folks whose floors are rotting away at least you know where it's coming from. What I did to fix that problem was to stick a piece of stiff plastic over the hole and used bondo to patch it up-took about three layers. I thought about painting the whole floor but the other day I saw a sheet floor covering that was grey with one inch wide bumps all over it. Does anyone know what I'm talking about-I've seen it on other boats.
Thanks Daryl, but I can't take credit.
The box I added outboard of the ice box where the trash container is located, is in addition to the ice box. (mine is a frige) To keep heat from the engine away, I installed a vacuum panel. It's easy to do if you tear apart your boat.
The box I added outboard of the ice box where the trash container is located, is in addition to the ice box. (mine is a frige) To keep heat from the engine away, I installed a vacuum panel. It's easy to do if you tear apart your boat.
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