Water leakage in the windows

dee.yeah · Sep 23, 2011

I replaced the windows about half year ago, as the old ones aged and cracked. I made a 1:1 paper sample directly from the window, and asked local shop to make the new windows from the sample using 2.5mm acrylic. But I found 3.0mm should be better. I also noticed the port and starboard windows can be very slightly different in size and shape!

To remove, just un-screw the bolts, cut the sealant and remove the window. Thoroughly remove the old sealant and clean the sealing surface before applying new sealant.

I used Dow silicone to seal the windows, but only found that it doesn't last long. I will need to redo the work soon.

harryjak · Sep 23, 2011

I plan on replacing the windows with Lexan a Polycarbonate vice an acrylic like Plexiglass
There are a lot of good sealants out there, if I was going to use Plexiglass I would use Sikaflex, here is a document from their website on installation.

http://us01.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=1288

For Lexan I would use GE UltraGlaze Structural sealant SSG4000, its what Bomar uses and it is designed for Lexan.

You should expect 20 years between resealing, if you don't get that you are using the wrong sealant or there is a structural issue that is causing the sealant seal to break. If that long window of the Yamaha 30 didn't have those vertical supports to take the deck load it would be impossible to keep those windows from leaking. There are American mfg powerboats that have 6'-8' of window like that with no verticals, the window is carrying the load. Just about guaranteed to leak.

dee.yeah · Sep 23, 2011

Thanks harryjak for the advices, it's good to know better use Lexan than acrylic. The latter is just much more common and easier to find supplies.

I will also switch to Lexan when redoing the window work. Just 1 more question, I noticed there are 1-side and 2-side anti-UV Lexan (that's how the shop quoted), what is the difference and does it matter for a boat window? Thanks!

Rizzman · Sep 25, 2011

Put new windows in my y36

You might want to check this link?

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=109482

Or do a search on posts under my ID if link doesn't work.

Good luck,
Bob

harryjak · Sep 28, 2011

That post at the end got me 50 degree for 20 plus days for cure, that isn't likely to happen where I live, I have a problem.

Rizzman · Sep 30, 2011

I did mine in early June

harryjak · Oct 7, 2011

20 days with temps above 50 F day and night just don't happen here, 5 would be difficult. I am going to have to talk to techs and think about a rather expensive heating mode. I am going to have the 25 tented with the mast off all winter so I might be able to work something out.

Pakele · Oct 7, 2011

2 bits worth here... I replaced my windows on the 25mkII with plexi and used a good dow sealant... The job is okay, but I have a couple of very small drips when it really poors. I really wished I had moved up to a thick Lexan and used the Sika Flex methods (I was cheap and it will cost me more!) ... It's a lotta work, but I believe I will redo the job next spring and do it right! Prepare and mask well, be really liberal with your sealant... Doing it right the first time is far more important than being CHEAP!

harryjak · Oct 9, 2011

I agree, I will be using lexan, I am going to have to talk to a tech about sealing. Temperature is going to be an issue.