Water in the bilges...

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J

Jim

There is significant water accumulation in the bilges. Anybody have this experience? Before I whip out the epoxy and/or new hoses - let's troubleshoot. Thanks all!
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Water in the bilge

I don't think that you'll need the epoxy, Jim. You'll probably need some Polysulfide boat caulking. Check the gunwale molding by running a hose over you decks. Also the Gudgeons on the transom. If it turns out to be the gudgeons or the self bailing hose in the transom, you'd be wise to install an 8" deck plate on the inside center of the transom. It's no fun trying to get at these problem areas, through the narrow hatch in the cockpit. That's it. Good luck! Joe
 
D

Dave K.

One more thing to check.....

Joe has already outlined the likely suspects but it also worth checking the tube that the centerboard pendant line runs through. If you pick up the plywood under the cooler, you should find a stainless tube with a connecting hose on either end. The lower end is below the waterline, so don't undo this unless the boat is on the trailer. Check for a deteriorated hose or corrosion on the stainless tube under where the hose attaches.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Centerboard Pendant line hose

You know, Dave? I've had my boat for years and never even thought of checking mine. That's a good idea. I think I will check it, just to be on the safe side. I've replaced my self bailing hose twice since I've had my boat. Maybe this pendant line hose should be replaced also. Joe
 
D

Dave K.

Pendant Line Tube

The hoses are short and straight so there isn't much stress on them, but what I found on mine was some corrosion on the stainless steel tube where the hose clamps to it. Based on the limited amount I understand about corrosion of stainless steel, stainless is vulnerable to crevice corrosion where there is stagnant electrolyte (ie: water) that is trapped against the stainless, as when moisture is stuck between a hose and tube or between a stanchion and the deck. Once the oxygen is used up, acids form and the stainless is etched away. I understand that this is why we sometimes see rusty streaks coming out from underneath a stainless fitting that is as shiny as can be on top. This is exactly what I observed on the tube I took out of my boat. The surface was pitted, eroded and much of the surface was just plain gone from under the hose. It was no longer a smooth sealing surface and it started to seep.The part of the tube visible between the bilge and the bridgedeck looked perfect,as did the "dry" end where the tube attached to the bridgedeck fitting via a short piece of hose. Keep in mind though, that the previous owner of my boat kept her in the water year round for several years. It may be that a trailered boat "dries out" frequently enough that this corrosion process doesn't get a foothold. I replaced the stainless tube with PVC, using a conduit elbow from Home Depot to make the radiused bend.
 
D

Dave K.

Kinda depends.......

....on how big you are. You have to get down in the lazarette to reach it unless you install a deck plate in the back of the cockpit like Joe described. I weigh 200 and I was able to get the old stuff out through the lazarette but I persuaded a 165lb guy who sails with me occasionally to go in there for install of the new parts since it requires more dexterity, not to mention more time with your head in a hole and your feet in the air!
 
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