I have a Beneteau 32s5. After I pump the bowl of the head dry, the bowl fills with about 3 - 6 inches of waste water (takes about 60 seconds). Is this normal?
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Sounds like a blocked tank vent
When the vent is blocked, air in the tank displaced by incoming waste has nowher to go, so pumping the toilet pressurizes the tank, pushing waste back toward the toilet. Ignored long enough, it can pressurize the tank enough to burst it. All of the above assumes that what's filling your bowl IS waste water backflow. If it's clean water, it's coming in via the head intake. If it's happening when the toilet is in the dry mode, the wet/dry valve has failed. If there's no vented loop in the head intake, it's allowing water to rise in bowl to the boat's waterline. To fix that, you need to install a vented loop in the intake (it goes between the pump and the bowl, btw), and either replace the wet/dry cam assembly, or better yet, the whole toilet. You might find the link below useful in understanding how your sanitation system works and how to maintain it.
When the vent is blocked, air in the tank displaced by incoming waste has nowher to go, so pumping the toilet pressurizes the tank, pushing waste back toward the toilet. Ignored long enough, it can pressurize the tank enough to burst it. All of the above assumes that what's filling your bowl IS waste water backflow. If it's clean water, it's coming in via the head intake. If it's happening when the toilet is in the dry mode, the wet/dry valve has failed. If there's no vented loop in the head intake, it's allowing water to rise in bowl to the boat's waterline. To fix that, you need to install a vented loop in the intake (it goes between the pump and the bowl, btw), and either replace the wet/dry cam assembly, or better yet, the whole toilet. You might find the link below useful in understanding how your sanitation system works and how to maintain it.
don't be so quick to say it's the vent or joker
Newer Hunters are known for very long head hoses. Mine is 14' from head to tank. The last 2' are uphill. If I pump and pump and pump with all water, the water that is left in the 2' uphill hose will soak back into the bowl. A joker valve isn't water proof...even if it's new. If I pump with water and dry mixes, then after finished pumping the air left in the hose will work it's way back into the head (joker valve isn't air proof either) along with some water. With my old pump, I used to be able to mostly clear the hose of all water, but not with the new pump. So, don't be so quick to say it's the joker valve or a stopped up vent. It may just be the way the layout of the boat.
Newer Hunters are known for very long head hoses. Mine is 14' from head to tank. The last 2' are uphill. If I pump and pump and pump with all water, the water that is left in the 2' uphill hose will soak back into the bowl. A joker valve isn't water proof...even if it's new. If I pump with water and dry mixes, then after finished pumping the air left in the hose will work it's way back into the head (joker valve isn't air proof either) along with some water. With my old pump, I used to be able to mostly clear the hose of all water, but not with the new pump. So, don't be so quick to say it's the joker valve or a stopped up vent. It may just be the way the layout of the boat.
It's not the joker valve, most likely....
but the output valve - the one that flexes on the up/down cycle of the hand pump - is a likely candidate. If that valve is leaking, two things will likely happen: 1. Your input strokes won't pick up a full load of water and your output strokes won't send the waste water as far as it should - either over the vented loop or all the way to the tank. 2. When you stop pumping, the leak in the valve will allow the water to seep back into the toilet. I would still go along with Peggy (once again showing both my common sense AND intelligence ;D) and say check the vent first - it's the most likely and cheapest solution, start with it. Then move on - you'd probably get the most bang out of buying the service kit for your toilet, rolling up your sleeves, putting on nitrile gloves, and digging in.
I just did that for my Jabsco (I KNOW, Peggy, but it works fine!) and the Commodore marveled at how wonderfully it now works! Then put in the vented loops, for safety. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
but the output valve - the one that flexes on the up/down cycle of the hand pump - is a likely candidate. If that valve is leaking, two things will likely happen: 1. Your input strokes won't pick up a full load of water and your output strokes won't send the waste water as far as it should - either over the vented loop or all the way to the tank. 2. When you stop pumping, the leak in the valve will allow the water to seep back into the toilet. I would still go along with Peggy (once again showing both my common sense AND intelligence ;D) and say check the vent first - it's the most likely and cheapest solution, start with it. Then move on - you'd probably get the most bang out of buying the service kit for your toilet, rolling up your sleeves, putting on nitrile gloves, and digging in.
I just did that for my Jabsco (I KNOW, Peggy, but it works fine!) and the Commodore marveled at how wonderfully it now works! Then put in the vented loops, for safety. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
It's the valve that controls the water flow
On my Jabsco toilet, it's a 'flapper' kind of valve. On the upstroke of the pump, it opens (flaps) up to allow water to enter the pump body from the toilet bowl. On the downstroke, it closes the opening from the bowl into the pump, which directs the water in the pump body through the discharge fitting and the joker valve into the discharge hose. In the parts diagram (see link below), Jabsco calls it a 'base valve gasket' (item #15) On a Raritan PHII, it is part # 1228CW, 'Flapper Valve Assembly', and it appears to perform the same function. http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/ph_II/L04v0505.pdf Google doesn't return any references to a 'Parr marine toilet' so I can't help there. Franklin, I read your post #6 again, and it appears that in an oblique way you are confessing that your toilet/holding tank hose has no vented loop in it. Shame on you! ;D Tarracot, we could give better advice if we knew more about your configuration. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
On my Jabsco toilet, it's a 'flapper' kind of valve. On the upstroke of the pump, it opens (flaps) up to allow water to enter the pump body from the toilet bowl. On the downstroke, it closes the opening from the bowl into the pump, which directs the water in the pump body through the discharge fitting and the joker valve into the discharge hose. In the parts diagram (see link below), Jabsco calls it a 'base valve gasket' (item #15) On a Raritan PHII, it is part # 1228CW, 'Flapper Valve Assembly', and it appears to perform the same function. http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/ph_II/L04v0505.pdf Google doesn't return any references to a 'Parr marine toilet' so I can't help there. Franklin, I read your post #6 again, and it appears that in an oblique way you are confessing that your toilet/holding tank hose has no vented loop in it. Shame on you! ;D Tarracot, we could give better advice if we knew more about your configuration.
Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8- Status