I recently bought a 85 Hunter 28.5. I had her inspected by a Certified Marine Surveyor and she was given a clean bill of health with a very dry, clean bilge. Recently I've been noticing that we're getting water coming through the edges of the cabin floor while heeled over. I've checked all the through hulls and they are all closed except for the engine intake which I can't seem to locate. If anybody has any idea on how I can track down the source of this water I'd greatly appreciate it. I usually only get about two cups of water in the cabin, but no matter how many times I soak it up it keeps coming back. Jeremy Siprelle jeremys@austin.rr.com
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H2O
The water intake is just aft of the transmission located under access hatch in aft cabin. You did not indicate how long the boat has been out of comission but there are two possible sources of leaks: Shaft seal is dripping too rapidly. Remember it should drip a couple of drops a minute unless you have a dripless seal. Check the packing. Rain leaks. Most likely. It is amazing how much rain water accumulates in the grid system without any apparent leaks. If you are on salt water do the old taste test. If the water is not salty then it is probably rain and cleaning water which after a couple of brisk sailng days should work its way to the bilge pump. If this is the case look under leaks in the archives for help.
The water intake is just aft of the transmission located under access hatch in aft cabin. You did not indicate how long the boat has been out of comission but there are two possible sources of leaks: Shaft seal is dripping too rapidly. Remember it should drip a couple of drops a minute unless you have a dripless seal. Check the packing. Rain leaks. Most likely. It is amazing how much rain water accumulates in the grid system without any apparent leaks. If you are on salt water do the old taste test. If the water is not salty then it is probably rain and cleaning water which after a couple of brisk sailng days should work its way to the bilge pump. If this is the case look under leaks in the archives for help.
Please, please locate the engine intake seacock
You should close this seacock whenever you leave the boat. Of all the through-hulls, it is the single most likely one to sink your boat while you are away. The reason is the long and circuitious route it opens through your boat. Cooling seawater flows through a hose, to a water pump, through another hose to a heat exchanger, through another hose, to the injection elbow, to the muffler, and up out the exhaust hose. (There may be a raw water strainer prior to the pump. The above route assumes you have a closed cooling sytem. If you have a raw water cooling system, the route is even more complex!) All of these hoses run through the engine compartment, and most likely have not been replaced since the boat was built. A failure in any of these hoses, filters, pumps, or their connections lets outside water into your boat. It will exhaust your batteries, and sink your boat. Close all your seacocks (except scuppers) when you leave the boat. ESPECIALLY the engine intake.
You should close this seacock whenever you leave the boat. Of all the through-hulls, it is the single most likely one to sink your boat while you are away. The reason is the long and circuitious route it opens through your boat. Cooling seawater flows through a hose, to a water pump, through another hose to a heat exchanger, through another hose, to the injection elbow, to the muffler, and up out the exhaust hose. (There may be a raw water strainer prior to the pump. The above route assumes you have a closed cooling sytem. If you have a raw water cooling system, the route is even more complex!) All of these hoses run through the engine compartment, and most likely have not been replaced since the boat was built. A failure in any of these hoses, filters, pumps, or their connections lets outside water into your boat. It will exhaust your batteries, and sink your boat. Close all your seacocks (except scuppers) when you leave the boat. ESPECIALLY the engine intake.
The middle bilge
As indicated, your engine bilge should accumulate some water from the packing gland around the shaft. I also find that if I get an excess of water in the head, either from the head itself or the open window, this will also drain into the engine bilge. Heres the kicker: When sailing along and the boat heels, the contents of the engine bilge spill into the section between the main bilge and engine bilge and it just sits there and accumulates. Then one day when you are sailing along with a nice heel, you notice water on the floor. You know you just emptied both the engine and the main bilge so you are perplexed on how it got there. So, how do you empty it from this section under the floor boards? There have been many discussions on this for this model. My solution was to drill a 1 inch diameter hole just aft of the engine cover in the floor. This gives me access to the cavity the floor boards cover. I can then use a manual pump and empty this section once a week. If you let it sit, it will eventually rot out your floor boards. If you have to empty very often, then check out the other suggestions for the source of the water.
As indicated, your engine bilge should accumulate some water from the packing gland around the shaft. I also find that if I get an excess of water in the head, either from the head itself or the open window, this will also drain into the engine bilge. Heres the kicker: When sailing along and the boat heels, the contents of the engine bilge spill into the section between the main bilge and engine bilge and it just sits there and accumulates. Then one day when you are sailing along with a nice heel, you notice water on the floor. You know you just emptied both the engine and the main bilge so you are perplexed on how it got there. So, how do you empty it from this section under the floor boards? There have been many discussions on this for this model. My solution was to drill a 1 inch diameter hole just aft of the engine cover in the floor. This gives me access to the cavity the floor boards cover. I can then use a manual pump and empty this section once a week. If you let it sit, it will eventually rot out your floor boards. If you have to empty very often, then check out the other suggestions for the source of the water.
btw..your engine intake is in...
Sorry, forgot to mention that your engine intake is in the aft berth. Remove all the cushions and you will see the access cover. Check that the strainer lid is tight. This could be the source of your water.
Sorry, forgot to mention that your engine intake is in the aft berth. Remove all the cushions and you will see the access cover. Check that the strainer lid is tight. This could be the source of your water.
Other Hose-Hull Connections
Besides the items the other responders have mentioned, another water source from sailing are the points where hoses go through the hull; in particular, the bildge pump hose. This hull connection tends to be close to the waterline, say a foot or two up, and could have become loose with time. Standardly it's a chrome plated bronze elbow with a plywood backing plate and another bronze elbow which is supposed to suck everything up tight. If the plywood looses it's compression over the years this through hull connection could become loose. If the assembly rotates in it's hole and has to be rebedded then suggest scraping out all the sealant down to the fiberglass and putting an epoxy coat on before rebedding to keep water out. This may be like closing the barn door after the horse left but, oh well. The other holes through the hull above the water line are higher up so they shouldn't be a problem when sailing; however, they should be checked too.
Besides the items the other responders have mentioned, another water source from sailing are the points where hoses go through the hull; in particular, the bildge pump hose. This hull connection tends to be close to the waterline, say a foot or two up, and could have become loose with time. Standardly it's a chrome plated bronze elbow with a plywood backing plate and another bronze elbow which is supposed to suck everything up tight. If the plywood looses it's compression over the years this through hull connection could become loose. If the assembly rotates in it's hole and has to be rebedded then suggest scraping out all the sealant down to the fiberglass and putting an epoxy coat on before rebedding to keep water out. This may be like closing the barn door after the horse left but, oh well. The other holes through the hull above the water line are higher up so they shouldn't be a problem when sailing; however, they should be checked too.
H2O inside
Your 28.5 is about as old ad mine. All the other postings are good. Some other things to check are the water system lines- from the forward tank>pump> galley > head.. Also check and caulk the cockpit cage where the aft light wire enters the hull- I had a rail "drain" thru there. Also you may want to take some RTV caulk and force it into the anchor latch receptacle ( place some plastic over the bolt and push the bolt into the RTV'ed receptacle) it should dry and be easy to retract and trim. You may also want to check the condition of the pre-heater hoses that run from the engine to the water heater box. They are getting old and leaky -especially from friction in areas where the hoses run thru the ribs. I moved my heater box from under the forward V-berth to aft of the gas tank in the cockpit locker. The hoses were shortend to use the sections that were not worn or cracked Jim McCue.
Your 28.5 is about as old ad mine. All the other postings are good. Some other things to check are the water system lines- from the forward tank>pump> galley > head.. Also check and caulk the cockpit cage where the aft light wire enters the hull- I had a rail "drain" thru there. Also you may want to take some RTV caulk and force it into the anchor latch receptacle ( place some plastic over the bolt and push the bolt into the RTV'ed receptacle) it should dry and be easy to retract and trim. You may also want to check the condition of the pre-heater hoses that run from the engine to the water heater box. They are getting old and leaky -especially from friction in areas where the hoses run thru the ribs. I moved my heater box from under the forward V-berth to aft of the gas tank in the cockpit locker. The hoses were shortend to use the sections that were not worn or cracked Jim McCue.
Fresh Water Holding Tank
I don't know about the 28.5, but on our H31 we had a similar problem. I found that when the boat was heeled the inspection port on the fresh water holding tank leaked and water ran along the side and then down onto the cabin sole. Hope this helps. I know that water running onto the floor while under sail can be a scary sight! Happy Sailing, Bob S/V H31 Lady Di II
I don't know about the 28.5, but on our H31 we had a similar problem. I found that when the boat was heeled the inspection port on the fresh water holding tank leaked and water ran along the side and then down onto the cabin sole. Hope this helps. I know that water running onto the floor while under sail can be a scary sight! Happy Sailing, Bob S/V H31 Lady Di II
Or it could be the head overflowing
Jeremy: I have a 1987 H285, and the top of the head is about even with the waterline. If you leave the seacock open to the head when it's not in use, the bowl may fill and overflow, especially if the head itself has a "flush" and "dry" lever, as mine does. If you leave the seacock open and the lever set to flush, the bowl will definitely flood. On my boat, there are two bilge access hatches, one forward & one aft. The forward one opens to the deep bilge where the pump is. The aft one opens to the compartment that's most likely the source of your water. I keep mine unscrewed so that I can check it easily, and dry it when needed. I've found the main source of water here is from when I check the engine water inlet. Not only do I open the strainer to inspect for debris, but while it's open, I open the seacock to check for good flow. This is important if there's grass where you boat, as it will get into the inlet and clog it. Making sure the inlet isn't clogged will spare you an avoidable overheat.
Jeremy: I have a 1987 H285, and the top of the head is about even with the waterline. If you leave the seacock open to the head when it's not in use, the bowl may fill and overflow, especially if the head itself has a "flush" and "dry" lever, as mine does. If you leave the seacock open and the lever set to flush, the bowl will definitely flood. On my boat, there are two bilge access hatches, one forward & one aft. The forward one opens to the deep bilge where the pump is. The aft one opens to the compartment that's most likely the source of your water. I keep mine unscrewed so that I can check it easily, and dry it when needed. I've found the main source of water here is from when I check the engine water inlet. Not only do I open the strainer to inspect for debris, but while it's open, I open the seacock to check for good flow. This is important if there's grass where you boat, as it will get into the inlet and clog it. Making sure the inlet isn't clogged will spare you an avoidable overheat.
Ye gods, Eric!
Sooner or later, you're gonna forget to close the head intake seacock when you close up the boat at the end of a weekend and your boat's gonna sink! You need to Install a vented loop in your head intake...It has to go between the pump and the bowl...and must be at least a foot above the waterline at any angle of heel.
Sooner or later, you're gonna forget to close the head intake seacock when you close up the boat at the end of a weekend and your boat's gonna sink! You need to Install a vented loop in your head intake...It has to go between the pump and the bowl...and must be at least a foot above the waterline at any angle of heel.
So that's why the boat sinks every weekend!
Peggy: The flooding head is a problem underway on port tack, not so much in port unless very windy. I should have said the waterline is about a 1/2" below the top of the head when the boat is level. The bowl gets very full but won't overflow unless the boat is rocking. The vented loop is a good idea. Until I can do that, I will continue to close all seacocks when not on board.
Peggy: The flooding head is a problem underway on port tack, not so much in port unless very windy. I should have said the waterline is about a 1/2" below the top of the head when the boat is level. The bowl gets very full but won't overflow unless the boat is rocking. The vented loop is a good idea. Until I can do that, I will continue to close all seacocks when not on board.
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