Went out racing - wind was about 5knts when we left doc blew to over 20 by the time we were on the last leg. As such, with the oversized main the rail was in the water the whole last leg. When we got back to doc we had about 1 1/2 gallons of water in the bilge. I know the bilge was dry when we left doc because I had recently moved the battery to the front and had the bilge open to do so. Questions: 1) Is it possible that the water is coming in through the seem between the topside and hull? I assume that this would be where the rub rail is located. 2) If the water ballast tank were to crack, would it be likely to only be near the top so that water would only leak if the boat was heeled? 3) Is this something that forces me to refrain from using the boat? This is a very disconcerting situation, boat is only one year old. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Nathan
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Steve
Vent Plug?
Check the plug for the water ballast air vent, and the seacock for the galley drain. Both can let water in under the conditions you described.
Check the plug for the water ballast air vent, and the seacock for the galley drain. Both can let water in under the conditions you described.
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Bill O'Donovan
Boats leak
Not to worry. You're right to suspect water coming in between the hull liner and hull. Happens all the time. 1.5 gallons is nothing for a day's sailing in 20 mph winds. Keep a bucket and sponge handy to remove water after every sail, since it's best to keep the bilge dry and clean over time.
Not to worry. You're right to suspect water coming in between the hull liner and hull. Happens all the time. 1.5 gallons is nothing for a day's sailing in 20 mph winds. Keep a bucket and sponge handy to remove water after every sail, since it's best to keep the bilge dry and clean over time.
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Marcel
Start eliminating areas
Over a gallon of water in a single day of sailing indicates a problem to me. The first thing to check is the tank fill vent and valve. An easy way to do it is to launch normally and close the tank valve and vent, then wrap a towel around that area. Check the clamps on the sink drain hose, both ends. Wrap a paper towel around the area where the thru hull exits. If those 2 places don't show leaks then you need to contact Crazy Dave here on the forum and see if the hull deck joint is the next thing to check or if you should look at the ballast tank. Your problem is fixable, my 94 H-26 has always been dry as a bone even after being out for a week, your 240 should be dry also.
Over a gallon of water in a single day of sailing indicates a problem to me. The first thing to check is the tank fill vent and valve. An easy way to do it is to launch normally and close the tank valve and vent, then wrap a towel around that area. Check the clamps on the sink drain hose, both ends. Wrap a paper towel around the area where the thru hull exits. If those 2 places don't show leaks then you need to contact Crazy Dave here on the forum and see if the hull deck joint is the next thing to check or if you should look at the ballast tank. Your problem is fixable, my 94 H-26 has always been dry as a bone even after being out for a week, your 240 should be dry also.
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Alan Long
Try this
Put some food coloring in your ballast tank. If the leak is coming from there is will be immeciately apparent. Another source of leakage on my 23.5 (I assume yours is similar) is the sink drain. When I first got the boat there wasn't an elevated loop in the sink drain line. Water would enter the drain and seep out around a loose clamp at the sink. Double clamps and a new loop took care of that. Its certainly possible that it is leaking around the hull/deck joint. I always like to eliminate the simple (and cheap) stuff first. I know how frustrating this can be. Good Luck Alan Long
Put some food coloring in your ballast tank. If the leak is coming from there is will be immeciately apparent. Another source of leakage on my 23.5 (I assume yours is similar) is the sink drain. When I first got the boat there wasn't an elevated loop in the sink drain line. Water would enter the drain and seep out around a loose clamp at the sink. Double clamps and a new loop took care of that. Its certainly possible that it is leaking around the hull/deck joint. I always like to eliminate the simple (and cheap) stuff first. I know how frustrating this can be. Good Luck Alan Long
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Rob Ullinger
Bilge Pump thru hull??
At least on our 23.5, Hunter did not install a check valve on the bilge pump discharge. If the bilge pump thru hull is under water for long, water can flow into the bilges this way, faster than the bilge pump can pump it out, or, because the boat is healed so extreme, the float swith may not have been under water to turn the pump on. Also, I would check the hose connections of any thru hulls which normally would not be below the water line unless the boat is healed at an extreme angle. Another failing of Hunter was to double clamp the hoses on the thru hulls. I'm really suprised that the weather helm was not un-managable with the boat healed to the point of having the rail in the water. Usually, at least with our 23.5, we can actually sail faster by shortening sail and keeping the boat balanced. By overpowering the boat, the center board becomes a less efficient foil, and the rudder increases drag dramatically, not to mention the increase in wetted area of the hull. Rob "Kinship"
At least on our 23.5, Hunter did not install a check valve on the bilge pump discharge. If the bilge pump thru hull is under water for long, water can flow into the bilges this way, faster than the bilge pump can pump it out, or, because the boat is healed so extreme, the float swith may not have been under water to turn the pump on. Also, I would check the hose connections of any thru hulls which normally would not be below the water line unless the boat is healed at an extreme angle. Another failing of Hunter was to double clamp the hoses on the thru hulls. I'm really suprised that the weather helm was not un-managable with the boat healed to the point of having the rail in the water. Usually, at least with our 23.5, we can actually sail faster by shortening sail and keeping the boat balanced. By overpowering the boat, the center board becomes a less efficient foil, and the rudder increases drag dramatically, not to mention the increase in wetted area of the hull. Rob "Kinship"
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crazy dave
Nathan
If the rub rail is in the water, first, you are heeling over too much. As I have always explained to my customers, anything over 15 degree heel is excessive and too much. You need to trim and reduce sail area for a faster, more comfortable and relaxing ride. IF you do not have roller furling, get it. If your significant other is with you, I am surprised your are addressing the issue as it means you are alive. Now for the water issue. Let us elimiate one by one. First, make sure the vent drain plug is tight and that is accomplished by turning the base to make it bigger. Next, look at the big washer under the wing handle. The washere will have a gasket but sometimes they wear out or not enough as the surface may not be smooth. Add a gasket to that and make sure you do not drop it if the boat is in the water or you will be in deep doo doo., The next thing is to eliminate the sink hose and pour water down it to see if it is leaking. Next, make sure no water is coming thru the base of the compression post by removing the cover plates at the base of the compression post either held in by silicon or screws. You can motor and detect any water or get several water buffalos like my big ole buzzle butt and see if water is comin in that way. Next shift the weight to the rear and make sure the hull to deck joint in the back of the boat is not leaking. Then you probably have narrowed it down to the rub rail. If that is the case, then you are heeling over to far. Crazy Dave Condon
If the rub rail is in the water, first, you are heeling over too much. As I have always explained to my customers, anything over 15 degree heel is excessive and too much. You need to trim and reduce sail area for a faster, more comfortable and relaxing ride. IF you do not have roller furling, get it. If your significant other is with you, I am surprised your are addressing the issue as it means you are alive. Now for the water issue. Let us elimiate one by one. First, make sure the vent drain plug is tight and that is accomplished by turning the base to make it bigger. Next, look at the big washer under the wing handle. The washere will have a gasket but sometimes they wear out or not enough as the surface may not be smooth. Add a gasket to that and make sure you do not drop it if the boat is in the water or you will be in deep doo doo., The next thing is to eliminate the sink hose and pour water down it to see if it is leaking. Next, make sure no water is coming thru the base of the compression post by removing the cover plates at the base of the compression post either held in by silicon or screws. You can motor and detect any water or get several water buffalos like my big ole buzzle butt and see if water is comin in that way. Next shift the weight to the rear and make sure the hull to deck joint in the back of the boat is not leaking. Then you probably have narrowed it down to the rub rail. If that is the case, then you are heeling over to far. Crazy Dave Condon
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Nathan Schaan
Thanks for the help
Appreciate all of the ideas, especially crazy Dave. To answer a few questions comments A) Significant other was along B) We know that we were heeled way too much, however it was the third of four legs in the race and felt that reefing would take too much time. Frustrating but manageable. Thanks again. Nathan
Appreciate all of the ideas, especially crazy Dave. To answer a few questions comments A) Significant other was along B) We know that we were heeled way too much, however it was the third of four legs in the race and felt that reefing would take too much time. Frustrating but manageable. Thanks again. Nathan
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Joe Refkin, SV/Skooky 3 Cat 30
I use to have the same problem on my 240
When sailing in high wind we sometimes found quite a bit of water on the floor of the cabin. There was a lot of spray falling into the cabin through the wide open hatch (which was not noticed). by pulling the hatch all the way back, but not installing the companion way plexiglass pannels solved the problem. (keep your forward hatch closed too when sailing in high wind) Joe
When sailing in high wind we sometimes found quite a bit of water on the floor of the cabin. There was a lot of spray falling into the cabin through the wide open hatch (which was not noticed). by pulling the hatch all the way back, but not installing the companion way plexiglass pannels solved the problem. (keep your forward hatch closed too when sailing in high wind) Joe
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