I was offered an Endeavor 32 for very cheap price. It looked clean and belonged to an organization. It had gotten water in the engine and overheated. They didn't want to deal with her so I bought it for next to nothing. I thought it probably needed a new head gasket. At the annapolis boatshow, I ran into Chris from Portside Marine who I hired to come over and diagnose the problem. I arrived while he was finishing up. He claims that the problem is the water pump. He says that it was broken and pushed the water into the cylinders. A friend says that there is no way that that could happen and the guy is wrong. Does anyone have any experience with this? I want to believe Chris, he seems to know his stuff and I'm hoping for any easy fix. Also, does anyone have any experience with Endeavor 32's? I hear they are not very responsive.
Water in 2QM20 cylinders on Endeavor 32
- Thread starter doneright
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I have a little:
http://www.rogerlongboats.com/Boat.htm
They are very responsive with great handling characteristics. People whose reference point is lightweight, modern, wedge shaped, sleds will sneer at them but they are surprisingly fast for a very dry, comfortable boat that won't wear your out with the motion in rough water. Quick helm and tight turning radius makes them a joy to handle in tight spots and marinas but also makes a wind vane a good addition for long cruises. They go to windward as well as you could expect for a shoal draft boat, well enough that I'm happy with the advantages of being able to anchor where many others can't and gunkhole but long windward legs are best done as a motorsailer if you are in a hurry.
Excellent single hander. I've done thousands of miles in mine, much of it alone. If anything happened to her, I would try to get another.
Your engine may be toast. I doubt it is the water pump. That would be leaking into the crankcase. If water is getting into the cylinders from there, you have piston ring problems. More likely is a head gasket problem. These are raw water cooled engines and have lasted longer now than most do. It may well have finally rusted through one of the cooling passages and the block is now only suitable for a dinghy anchor.
If you can save it, this is one of the best small marine diesels ever built. My 1979 still runs like a brand new engine but was in fresh water until 5 years ago. Some parts are no longer available.
This outfit in CT:
http://www.virtualvoyages.net/
replaced one a couple years ago and had the old one for sale for $600. It wasn't running well but, if they still have it, it might be good for some parts.
If you got an E32 for that price, even with a dead engine, you got a deal. There isn't a lot that can go wrong in the hull and deck which are all solid glass or plywood core (cabin top and cockpit floor) that holds up a lot better than balsa.
See also:
http://www.endeavourowners.com/boats/e32/e32specs.html
Did I say cylinders, i am new to engines, It's probably the crankcase, it got mixed with the oil and ended up in the engine.
Did I say cylinders, i am new to engine maintenance. It's probably the crankcase, it got mixed with the oil and ended up in the engine. Does that sound right?
Water in the engine
For raw water to get into the engine is pretty hard. Almost has to come from seawater backed up in the exhaust and entering through the exhaust valves. Usually from cranking too long with no start.
For antifreeze to get into the engine requires the cooling water passages to be connected to the cylinder (via head gasket) or crankcase (don't know of one except a rusted block). the antifreeze pump typically has as its backing the engine block which has no direct or gasketed passage to the crankcase.
In any case and assuming it is not salt water, I'd change the oil, locate and fix the leak and flush the engine oil spaces with kerosene, change the filters and try it again. Head gaskets are cheap and a rusted through block is pretty easy to fix provided you can get access to drill out the rusted part and put a male pipe plug in it.
Water in the cylinder is not going to hurt the engine and water in the crankcase would only hurt if you ran it for an extended period of time. Course the engine overheats when the water runs into the crankcase so that probably did not happen either.
Be sure to look in the valve cover to ensure that all the brown water-oil emulsion has been removed by the flushing opeation.
For raw water to get into the engine is pretty hard. Almost has to come from seawater backed up in the exhaust and entering through the exhaust valves. Usually from cranking too long with no start.
For antifreeze to get into the engine requires the cooling water passages to be connected to the cylinder (via head gasket) or crankcase (don't know of one except a rusted block). the antifreeze pump typically has as its backing the engine block which has no direct or gasketed passage to the crankcase.
In any case and assuming it is not salt water, I'd change the oil, locate and fix the leak and flush the engine oil spaces with kerosene, change the filters and try it again. Head gaskets are cheap and a rusted through block is pretty easy to fix provided you can get access to drill out the rusted part and put a male pipe plug in it.
Water in the cylinder is not going to hurt the engine and water in the crankcase would only hurt if you ran it for an extended period of time. Course the engine overheats when the water runs into the crankcase so that probably did not happen either.
Be sure to look in the valve cover to ensure that all the brown water-oil emulsion has been removed by the flushing opeation.
Water in the crankcase is not that bad if it is flushed out in a reasonable time.. Usually, the water gets whipped up into a gray mayonnaise which provides a little lube and some corrosion protection.. If it was salt water and allowed to stay in there for a year or so, the engine may be toast.. not guaranteed, but the engine needs a partial teardown to evaluate.. get a good diesel guy to look it over for ya. I have been involved with saving a couple of these that had so much emulsion produced that the mayonnaise had completely filled the crankcase and was coming out of the breather port. We flushed it out with kerosene and then motor oil then another motor oil flush.. That engine is still running today, 15 years after the gray mayonnaise incident.
I agree with Roger about the Endeavor 32.. I had never sailed on one until he took Susan and I out for a great day sail around Casco Bay.. sweet handling boat he has!.. Thanks again for that, Roger
I agree with Roger about the Endeavor 32.. I had never sailed on one until he took Susan and I out for a great day sail around Casco Bay.. sweet handling boat he has!.. Thanks again for that, Roger
Water can also enter an engine via pin holes in the exhaust manifold .... back filling the cylinders and then draining down into the crankcase through the gap in the piston ring 'ends'.
Before you take drastic action by either engine disassembly or condemnation: FILL the crankcase with MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, and (after removing the injectors) the cylinders (a few tablespoons in each) and let the engine 'soak' for a few WEEKS, drain/remove the oil, turn the engine over carefully by HAND (so you dont break piston rings), then spin the engine by the starter, Then refill (to proper level) with 1/2 MMO and 1/2 normal oil and START the engine and run at NO LOAD (idle) for several hours to 'repolish'. Change to 75% Oil and 25% MMO and run the engine 'lightly' for ~10-15 hours, then change to 100% oil.
The MMO will free-up the piston rings,, the valve guides, etc.and will allow the engine to 'repolish itself'. Of course you have to find out exactly the source/reason of the water ingress.
The above will 95% usually allow a 'frozen' engine to be 'saved'.
Before you take drastic action by either engine disassembly or condemnation: FILL the crankcase with MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, and (after removing the injectors) the cylinders (a few tablespoons in each) and let the engine 'soak' for a few WEEKS, drain/remove the oil, turn the engine over carefully by HAND (so you dont break piston rings), then spin the engine by the starter, Then refill (to proper level) with 1/2 MMO and 1/2 normal oil and START the engine and run at NO LOAD (idle) for several hours to 'repolish'. Change to 75% Oil and 25% MMO and run the engine 'lightly' for ~10-15 hours, then change to 100% oil.
The MMO will free-up the piston rings,, the valve guides, etc.and will allow the engine to 'repolish itself'. Of course you have to find out exactly the source/reason of the water ingress.
The above will 95% usually allow a 'frozen' engine to be 'saved'.
Is the "Chris" you mention Chris Oliver? If so, he has over 30 years experience with diesel engines. I took a basic diesel engine maintenance course he ran many years ago. I was impressed with his knowledge. He also does a lot of engine surveys all over the Chesapeake Bay and is very well respected.
Sam,
You’ve got a long road ahead of you to get that boat ready to take south. First advice in regard to your posts, PM, and email is to learn to properly assemble information and ask questions. You’ll find people here very generous with their time and knowledge but not if you waste their time. Full information is less time wasting that questions like, “Engine has water in it. Could it be the water pump?”
Even the seemingly inconsequential can be significant. You mention “Chris”. Someone asks if it is Chris Oliver and gives a good report. You tell me in PM that he was from Portside Marine. I Google “Chris Oliver Portside Marine” and find out that, yes, it is him and they are a Yanmar dealer. I now know that you are probably getting excellent advice but I had to take time to figure that out. I could have spent it scanning the diagram of the pump from the engine manual and sending it to you.
You weren’t clear in your first post whether the water was in the cylinders or the crankcase. That’s wasted effort in which you could have gotten more useful information here. There’s a nice and well informed run down above on what to do if your engine is frozen but it evidently isn’t.
You say Chris Oliver says you need a new waterpump. I’m not sure after the way this has gone that’s what he actually said. Are you sure he didn’t say, “New impeller and seals”? Did you ask why you need a new one? Is the casing cracked? Is the inside worn to where a rebuild won’t work? Does he just figure bolting a new $600 item (that he can probably sell you) will be easier for someone of your experience than replacing seals? Maybe he knows that you can’t get the seals anymore without buying a whole pump or that the labor of replacing seals will be more than a new pump.
The devil is in the details on these things. I know it can be overwhelming but you’ll be facing innumerable things like this before you are down south watching the sunset and learning how to handle and process the information necessary to get the answers you need is the first step.
Some random hints:
Water pump impeller should be replaced every year and old one(s) kept for spares.
The pump isn’t exactly as shown in the manual.
The back plate is a flat piece of metal. Mine wore to the point where the pump wouldn’t prime. I removed the paint from the other side with paint remover, polished it up a bit and it works fine turned over. When I buy a new one, I’ll immediately remove the paint so the other side can be a spare.
I replaced the screws on my pump cover with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that had hex socket heads. I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them. I can now remove my pump cover by hand. Best to have a hex wrench to replace it but, if I drop the wrench in the bilge while drifting towards shore while replacing an impeller, I can turn the screws in by hand and put final tension on with the wing nuts. The wing nut and machine screw combination is also easier to hang on to and easier to fish out of the bilge if I do drop one.
Replace every screw you can with hex socket heads. Much easier to replace in tight spaces while contorted as they fit snugly on the hex wrench.
Be sure you find all three zinc anodes on this engine and replace them. Put a new thermostat in now.
There is no practical way to drain the oil through the plug on this boat. You have to get a small bronze hand pump and pump it out through the dipstick while the oil is hot after running the engine. It’s hard work. One gallon of oil is just the right amount. I use Rotella 15 W 40. If you are not replacing the filter, which I do about every second change since I change often, leave about an inch of oil in the jug. Too much oil will ruin your engine faster than too little if the moving parts make it foam. This engine is installed at an angle beyond the Yanmar recommendation. It doesn’t seem to have caused problems but you can’t put as much oil in as the manual says. Keep the level exactly at the top of the dipstick hash marks.
Take off the whole hand starting apparatus. You’ll never be able to hand start this engine in an emergency and it will make maintenance access to things like the engine mounted filter much easier.
You’ve got a long road ahead of you to get that boat ready to take south. First advice in regard to your posts, PM, and email is to learn to properly assemble information and ask questions. You’ll find people here very generous with their time and knowledge but not if you waste their time. Full information is less time wasting that questions like, “Engine has water in it. Could it be the water pump?”
Even the seemingly inconsequential can be significant. You mention “Chris”. Someone asks if it is Chris Oliver and gives a good report. You tell me in PM that he was from Portside Marine. I Google “Chris Oliver Portside Marine” and find out that, yes, it is him and they are a Yanmar dealer. I now know that you are probably getting excellent advice but I had to take time to figure that out. I could have spent it scanning the diagram of the pump from the engine manual and sending it to you.
You weren’t clear in your first post whether the water was in the cylinders or the crankcase. That’s wasted effort in which you could have gotten more useful information here. There’s a nice and well informed run down above on what to do if your engine is frozen but it evidently isn’t.
You say Chris Oliver says you need a new waterpump. I’m not sure after the way this has gone that’s what he actually said. Are you sure he didn’t say, “New impeller and seals”? Did you ask why you need a new one? Is the casing cracked? Is the inside worn to where a rebuild won’t work? Does he just figure bolting a new $600 item (that he can probably sell you) will be easier for someone of your experience than replacing seals? Maybe he knows that you can’t get the seals anymore without buying a whole pump or that the labor of replacing seals will be more than a new pump.
The devil is in the details on these things. I know it can be overwhelming but you’ll be facing innumerable things like this before you are down south watching the sunset and learning how to handle and process the information necessary to get the answers you need is the first step.
Some random hints:
Water pump impeller should be replaced every year and old one(s) kept for spares.
The pump isn’t exactly as shown in the manual.
The back plate is a flat piece of metal. Mine wore to the point where the pump wouldn’t prime. I removed the paint from the other side with paint remover, polished it up a bit and it works fine turned over. When I buy a new one, I’ll immediately remove the paint so the other side can be a spare.
I replaced the screws on my pump cover with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that had hex socket heads. I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them. I can now remove my pump cover by hand. Best to have a hex wrench to replace it but, if I drop the wrench in the bilge while drifting towards shore while replacing an impeller, I can turn the screws in by hand and put final tension on with the wing nuts. The wing nut and machine screw combination is also easier to hang on to and easier to fish out of the bilge if I do drop one.
Replace every screw you can with hex socket heads. Much easier to replace in tight spaces while contorted as they fit snugly on the hex wrench.
Be sure you find all three zinc anodes on this engine and replace them. Put a new thermostat in now.
There is no practical way to drain the oil through the plug on this boat. You have to get a small bronze hand pump and pump it out through the dipstick while the oil is hot after running the engine. It’s hard work. One gallon of oil is just the right amount. I use Rotella 15 W 40. If you are not replacing the filter, which I do about every second change since I change often, leave about an inch of oil in the jug. Too much oil will ruin your engine faster than too little if the moving parts make it foam. This engine is installed at an angle beyond the Yanmar recommendation. It doesn’t seem to have caused problems but you can’t put as much oil in as the manual says. Keep the level exactly at the top of the dipstick hash marks.
Take off the whole hand starting apparatus. You’ll never be able to hand start this engine in an emergency and it will make maintenance access to things like the engine mounted filter much easier.
Roger - Please More Info on Hex Head to Wing Nut Conversion
I've got a 2QM20 also, although mounted in a different boat. Early on after my boat purchase, I replaced the pump cover slot head screws which were bronze with SS philips heads which was an improvement. But your hex head and wing nut description has caught my interest as much better. However, can you describe more? I can't really visualize how a wing nut can be affixed to the hex head.
You are right that the manual start crank is impossible to use. Thanks for the idea of maybe removing the mechanism. That had never occurred to me. I haven't found on my boat that the hand-start mechanism is in the way of anything. But I'll take a look since I like the idea of tidying things up a bit by removing. I don't know about your Endeavor, but on my 1980 Hunter 36, the front of the engine is "right there" when I remove the engine compartment cover at the companionway. The hand crank is in the perfect position for good leverage. However, not a chance of turning it over with hand power. Even jumping on the thing with my full body weight (dangerous idea anyway) won't crank the engine anywhere fast enough to start it. Just does a slow turn-over for one stroke as the compression very slowly leaks past the rings and closed valves. I've read that opening the compression lever, then using the hand-crank to get the engine rotating, then quickly closing the lever might work. But this would take real coordination of two people. Probably hard to acheive in an emergency situation. I'll just make sure that my emergency back-up battery is always in good shape. And the first time I sense that the starter might be getting a bit tired ... it will be replaced immediately.
My 2QM20 was converted probably at commissioning from raw water cooling to a self contained anti-freeze system with the addition of a second pump using the altenator belt for power, and the mounting of a heat exchange on a bulk head. The engine's integrated pump was changed to do the anti-freeze circuit and the external pump is for the raw water side. I'm sure that the engine block's water passages are in great shape. My main water passage worry is the exhaust manifold which has to contend with heat/pressure/corrosiveness of the exhaust gases. I've heard that exhaust manifolds for this engine are getting near impossible to find.
regards,
rardi
Hi Roger:
I've got a 2QM20 also, although mounted in a different boat. Early on after my boat purchase, I replaced the pump cover slot head screws which were bronze with SS philips heads which was an improvement. But your hex head and wing nut description has caught my interest as much better. However, can you describe more? I can't really visualize how a wing nut can be affixed to the hex head.
You are right that the manual start crank is impossible to use. Thanks for the idea of maybe removing the mechanism. That had never occurred to me. I haven't found on my boat that the hand-start mechanism is in the way of anything. But I'll take a look since I like the idea of tidying things up a bit by removing. I don't know about your Endeavor, but on my 1980 Hunter 36, the front of the engine is "right there" when I remove the engine compartment cover at the companionway. The hand crank is in the perfect position for good leverage. However, not a chance of turning it over with hand power. Even jumping on the thing with my full body weight (dangerous idea anyway) won't crank the engine anywhere fast enough to start it. Just does a slow turn-over for one stroke as the compression very slowly leaks past the rings and closed valves. I've read that opening the compression lever, then using the hand-crank to get the engine rotating, then quickly closing the lever might work. But this would take real coordination of two people. Probably hard to acheive in an emergency situation. I'll just make sure that my emergency back-up battery is always in good shape. And the first time I sense that the starter might be getting a bit tired ... it will be replaced immediately.
My 2QM20 was converted probably at commissioning from raw water cooling to a self contained anti-freeze system with the addition of a second pump using the altenator belt for power, and the mounting of a heat exchange on a bulk head. The engine's integrated pump was changed to do the anti-freeze circuit and the external pump is for the raw water side. I'm sure that the engine block's water passages are in great shape. My main water passage worry is the exhaust manifold which has to contend with heat/pressure/corrosiveness of the exhaust gases. I've heard that exhaust manifolds for this engine are getting near impossible to find.
regards,
rardi
okay roger
Roger, you're right. I apologize for being vague. Yes, I had Chris Oliver come down. He said the water pump is shot and cannot be rebuilt. He said that I need to replace it along with several hoses. He is compiling a list and will get the supplies for me. I was lucky that when the problem occurred, the fellow sailing the boat powered back after the alarm went off and nursed her back in. He then drained the crankcase and filled it with new oil. The engine ran for Chris. He said to replace the parts, run the engine to soften the mush, drain it and flush it at least a couple times after running engine a little and replacing oil filter. When I told a friend of Chris's findings, he said that he doubted that the engine wasn't ruined. That's what led me to the vague post. I hadn't dealt with Chris before and was a little perturbed that he had arrived before our appointment. He had done inspection and only let me know he was there after he had been working on the engine for 1/2 hour and was almost finished. I wanted to have more time to ask him questions and watch him work, but he rushed off 10 minutes after I arrived. He also suggested removing the hand starter.
I am through asking this friend's opinion, he is usually wrong.
Granted, there is a lot I need to learn, but I am not a dummy and would appreciate the advice of more knowledgeable sailors. From now on I will be more specific and try not to waste the time of those that are willing to offer hard earned knowledge and experience.
Roger, you're right. I apologize for being vague. Yes, I had Chris Oliver come down. He said the water pump is shot and cannot be rebuilt. He said that I need to replace it along with several hoses. He is compiling a list and will get the supplies for me. I was lucky that when the problem occurred, the fellow sailing the boat powered back after the alarm went off and nursed her back in. He then drained the crankcase and filled it with new oil. The engine ran for Chris. He said to replace the parts, run the engine to soften the mush, drain it and flush it at least a couple times after running engine a little and replacing oil filter. When I told a friend of Chris's findings, he said that he doubted that the engine wasn't ruined. That's what led me to the vague post. I hadn't dealt with Chris before and was a little perturbed that he had arrived before our appointment. He had done inspection and only let me know he was there after he had been working on the engine for 1/2 hour and was almost finished. I wanted to have more time to ask him questions and watch him work, but he rushed off 10 minutes after I arrived. He also suggested removing the hand starter.
I am through asking this friend's opinion, he is usually wrong.
Granted, there is a lot I need to learn, but I am not a dummy and would appreciate the advice of more knowledgeable sailors. From now on I will be more specific and try not to waste the time of those that are willing to offer hard earned knowledge and experience.
rardi,
Roger wrote: I replaced the screws on my pump cover with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that had hex socket heads. I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them.
Maybe he meant: I replaced the screws on my pump cover that had hex socket heads with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that . I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them.
I read it a few times and didn't get it either. Screws with heads AND wing nuts?
I can't wait for the real answer, sounds like a treat!
For the OP: at the beginning of each section where you post new questions/topics is a sticky that says: Please read this first: How to post a question. It's very well written, and supports Roger's request for specificity on questions and terminology. It DOES matter.
Good luck, the Endeavor 32 is a great boat. Our first "big boat" bareboat experience was on one back when we had only a C22. Great sailor, stable, comfortable, great interior, nice cockpit. Heck, rip the engine out and put a new one in, you still be ahead of most folks with used boats.
For the PO
Roger wrote: I replaced the screws on my pump cover with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that had hex socket heads. I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them.
Maybe he meant: I replaced the screws on my pump cover that had hex socket heads with s.s. metric screws from a hardware store that . I bought them over length and put wing nuts on them.
I read it a few times and didn't get it either. Screws with heads AND wing nuts?
I can't wait for the real answer, sounds like a treat!
For the OP: at the beginning of each section where you post new questions/topics is a sticky that says: Please read this first: How to post a question. It's very well written, and supports Roger's request for specificity on questions and terminology. It DOES matter.
Good luck, the Endeavor 32 is a great boat. Our first "big boat" bareboat experience was on one back when we had only a C22. Great sailor, stable, comfortable, great interior, nice cockpit. Heck, rip the engine out and put a new one in, you still be ahead of most folks with used boats.
For the PO
A Repair Manual is a "Must Have"
Sounds like you are interested about your engine and will be delving into some of its systems.
Chilton, the same publisher that does all the aftermarket repair manuals for just about every make of car for the last many decades, also has a marine division under the affliate name "SELOC".
Their publication #7400 is "Yanmar Inboards 1975-98 Repair Manual". It includes the 2QM20 series and its just about as good as my official Yanmar Repair Manual. Plus the Seloc version has a lot of generic good to know information, trouble-shooting tips, sections specific to each engine and drawings specific to each engine. In most cases, the drawings are identical to those in the official Yanmar manual.
The host of this website sells Seloc manuals. I don't see #7400 listed, but I am sure that they can get one for you. Or you can find Seloc publications on line at places like Amazon.com and at many on-line marine supply stores. The Seloc manual is not expensive (mid $20's) -- which actually less $'s than one replacement piece of rubber impeller for your soon to be repaired pump!
Sounds like you are interested about your engine and will be delving into some of its systems.
Chilton, the same publisher that does all the aftermarket repair manuals for just about every make of car for the last many decades, also has a marine division under the affliate name "SELOC".
Their publication #7400 is "Yanmar Inboards 1975-98 Repair Manual". It includes the 2QM20 series and its just about as good as my official Yanmar Repair Manual. Plus the Seloc version has a lot of generic good to know information, trouble-shooting tips, sections specific to each engine and drawings specific to each engine. In most cases, the drawings are identical to those in the official Yanmar manual.
The host of this website sells Seloc manuals. I don't see #7400 listed, but I am sure that they can get one for you. Or you can find Seloc publications on line at places like Amazon.com and at many on-line marine supply stores. The Seloc manual is not expensive (mid $20's) -- which actually less $'s than one replacement piece of rubber impeller for your soon to be repaired pump!
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doneright
I posted my last before your latest came it. Thanks for your understanding, and recognizing that your friend may not know as much as you will soon. You may want to rethink your attitude about Chris. Many of us have found it hard, if not impossible, to get qualified help to our boats. He came, he came early, and he did his job, and he's still working with you. Most of us spend as much time as we can on our boats, and if I have an appointment with an expert, I come early and leave late (although I know not everyone can have flexible schedules). I didn't understand the part about you being there for awhile before you knew he was there, but he did fulfill his obligation to you and showed up.
Good luck on getting her back up and running, keep us posted.
I posted my last before your latest came it. Thanks for your understanding, and recognizing that your friend may not know as much as you will soon. You may want to rethink your attitude about Chris. Many of us have found it hard, if not impossible, to get qualified help to our boats. He came, he came early, and he did his job, and he's still working with you. Most of us spend as much time as we can on our boats, and if I have an appointment with an expert, I come early and leave late (although I know not everyone can have flexible schedules). I didn't understand the part about you being there for awhile before you knew he was there, but he did fulfill his obligation to you and showed up.
Good luck on getting her back up and running, keep us posted.
After posting my request to Roger for more description, the same "awakening" occurred to me. But I also am looking forward to the formal answer to the mystery.
Lack of clarity seems to be going around
I think the original screws on my pump were Phillips head but it was still difficult to get them inserted without dropping at least one in the bilge. Changing an impeller at sea would have been difficult.
I replaced the screws with hex head screws because you can stick them on the wrench and they will stay there firmly until you get them inserted. When I was buying the screws, I had the thought to buy a wing nut for each one. The small head fits down between the wings and lets you back the screw out by turning the wing nut. I turn the wingnuts all the way on. When I put the screws in, I tighten them most of the way with the hex wrench and then give a final turn with the wingnut. It also acts like a lock nut. I've never had the cover weep or a screw come loose. If it should, I can tighten it quickly without having to scare up the hex wrench. Works great and the screw / wing nut combination is easy to grab and doesn't roll around on the cabin sole.
One of those simple things that works great.
Here's the experience that got me thinking about impeller issues:
http://www.rogerlongboats.com/Strider.htm#Last
Thanks for the expanded description Roger. Very elegant.
I had my own impeller failure in the middle of a channel, which I recounted/posted several months ago. Cause was my forgetting to open the raw water seacock. This prompted me to attach a switch to the seacock in a manner that if the seacock remained closed when the engine was running, an alarm would sound. I recall that you suggested a water flow alarm and gave me the link. I almost went that route, but you had also commented that the reed switch sometimes got stuck. Myself being a die-hard DIY'er, even when me-my-own may not be the best solution, I did the seacock switch thing. I do have fun with the switch. Occassionally with the engine running, I will very momentarily close the raw water seacock. The alarm happily goes off every time!
I had my own impeller failure in the middle of a channel, which I recounted/posted several months ago. Cause was my forgetting to open the raw water seacock. This prompted me to attach a switch to the seacock in a manner that if the seacock remained closed when the engine was running, an alarm would sound. I recall that you suggested a water flow alarm and gave me the link. I almost went that route, but you had also commented that the reed switch sometimes got stuck. Myself being a die-hard DIY'er, even when me-my-own may not be the best solution, I did the seacock switch thing. I do have fun with the switch. Occassionally with the engine running, I will very momentarily close the raw water seacock. The alarm happily goes off every time!
Chris is great
Thanks for you response. It was right on. I live in Philadelphia and the boat is in the Annapolis area. I had thought the engine was worse than it is, so I was considering letting a friend who is more mechanical than me get the E32. I wasn't anxious to go to all the trouble of pulling the engine. I was looking at another boat that Alan at Harrington's was showing me (I won't even go into that). I was hoping to do that before meeting with Chris. Ergo, the poor scheduling. I met Chris at the Annapolis Boat show and was completely impressed by him. He was friendly, knowledgeable and very helpful. I don't know if I was more disturbed with myself for not being at the boat. I think having him look at the 2QM20 was one of my better decisions. I am glad to hear that others agree with me. I have not always been such a good judge of character. This forum is a godsend. I won't have to call my friend whose advice I usually have to question.
The hex socket head screws (a.k.a. Allen head screws) are longer than normal so that the screws can be threaded thru the wing nuts all the way to the head BEFORE using them to attach a cover to the engine. That way you can twist the screw by using a hex Allen wrench or by using your fingers or pliers to grasp the wing nuts.
I won't have to call my friend whose advice I usually have to question.
Heck, bring him along next time, maybe he can learn something.
Heck, bring him along next time, maybe he can learn something.
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