I'm about to embark on changing all the water hose from the seacock through the fresh water pump and out to the water heater from the heat exchnager and back. Any suggestions from those who have done it? I'm particularly interested in how you got the hoses from the heat exhanger out to the water heater and back. Thanks.
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H31_83-87
When I embarked on the task, I ask myself the same question! If you look under the wooden panel on the port side behind the motor, it will help to see what is under the interliner and see how to feed the hoses. To disconnect and reinstall the hoses to the hot water heater (on my '87 it is under the sink), I installed a 6" access hole (with screw in cover) in the top of the "hump" that is behind the water heater and before where the exhaust hose comes out from under the interliner and then goes in the muffler. This allowed me to stick my hand down under the interliner and to remove the old hoses and install the new ones. I also used hole saw and made the holes in the "hump" that the hoses came out of to hook up to the hot water heater larger, for ease of installation. When Hunter made this boat they did not leave a lot of "work room" for later repairs and replacements, so every chance I get I make neat access holes or remove excess fiberglass for better access. Have fun! Bill
When I embarked on the task, I ask myself the same question! If you look under the wooden panel on the port side behind the motor, it will help to see what is under the interliner and see how to feed the hoses. To disconnect and reinstall the hoses to the hot water heater (on my '87 it is under the sink), I installed a 6" access hole (with screw in cover) in the top of the "hump" that is behind the water heater and before where the exhaust hose comes out from under the interliner and then goes in the muffler. This allowed me to stick my hand down under the interliner and to remove the old hoses and install the new ones. I also used hole saw and made the holes in the "hump" that the hoses came out of to hook up to the hot water heater larger, for ease of installation. When Hunter made this boat they did not leave a lot of "work room" for later repairs and replacements, so every chance I get I make neat access holes or remove excess fiberglass for better access. Have fun! Bill
Hoses under floors are tight,
You will need a barbed male to male coupler that fits tight without clamps. Use the coupler to join the old hose and new hose together and use the old hose as the guide to get the new hose installed. If you use two people - one pushing on the new hose and one pulling on the old hose, you can get the new hose through the floor. You will have to be really carefull because you do not want the coupler to get removed. If the hose is too tight coming out of the floor, you may have to cut the flooring to reduce the bending strain to get the hose out. You may also consider using glue on the coupler between the old and new hose so they do not seperate. Unfortunately, you cannot use any clamps because the clamp would restrict the hose from passing through cutouts - it would get hung up for sure. Good luck.
You will need a barbed male to male coupler that fits tight without clamps. Use the coupler to join the old hose and new hose together and use the old hose as the guide to get the new hose installed. If you use two people - one pushing on the new hose and one pulling on the old hose, you can get the new hose through the floor. You will have to be really carefull because you do not want the coupler to get removed. If the hose is too tight coming out of the floor, you may have to cut the flooring to reduce the bending strain to get the hose out. You may also consider using glue on the coupler between the old and new hose so they do not seperate. Unfortunately, you cannot use any clamps because the clamp would restrict the hose from passing through cutouts - it would get hung up for sure. Good luck.
De-Superheating
I have raw water cooling, so I realize an engine with the "F" suffix may not have a hose from the block to the mixing elbow. If it does, run a hose from there to the FROM ENGINE nipple on the heater and from the TO ENGINE nipple to the mixing elbow. There may be plugs on the exchanger where nipples can be inserted for hose connections. When pulling the new hoses through, I suggest using either "Tube Lube" or electrical "pulling compound" available at electrical supply houses, maybe Lowes or Home Depot. Electricians use it to pull wiring through conduit. It will not harm the hose or hull etc. and significantly reduces the friction you may encounter.
I have raw water cooling, so I realize an engine with the "F" suffix may not have a hose from the block to the mixing elbow. If it does, run a hose from there to the FROM ENGINE nipple on the heater and from the TO ENGINE nipple to the mixing elbow. There may be plugs on the exchanger where nipples can be inserted for hose connections. When pulling the new hoses through, I suggest using either "Tube Lube" or electrical "pulling compound" available at electrical supply houses, maybe Lowes or Home Depot. Electricians use it to pull wiring through conduit. It will not harm the hose or hull etc. and significantly reduces the friction you may encounter.
Job's done
Replaced all hose with 5/8' hose from West. With the new hose attached to the old hose with a barb and duct tape, I pushed through the hole under the engine while a friend pulled into the water heater space. The water heater was unscrewed and pulled forward from under the galley sink to allow a little more room. The hoses went through without lube. Thanks for the suggestions.
Replaced all hose with 5/8' hose from West. With the new hose attached to the old hose with a barb and duct tape, I pushed through the hole under the engine while a friend pulled into the water heater space. The water heater was unscrewed and pulled forward from under the galley sink to allow a little more room. The hoses went through without lube. Thanks for the suggestions.
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