I use to have a link to the post with detailed instruction how to troubleshoot and fix water heater. I lost it and cant find again... Can please somebody help? The boat is 1991 Hunter 35.5 Legend.
TIA
TIA
Water heater troubleshooting
- Thread starter Dima
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Electric, I think. I have hot water after running engine, but nothing happens when I try to use electric. Somebody posted great instruction what to look for and I lost this link...
Inside the fresh water side of your hot water heater is a heating element. Usually there is an opening on the outside cover that protects the water heater tank. Make sure the electricity to the unit is off and open up the cover. The heating element is usually kept in place with 4 hex bolts and then there is a rubber gasket to keep it from leaking. Some European water heaters have screw in elements. At any rate, you remove the element and buy a new one and screw or bolt it back in place and reconnect the wires (take notes as to where the wires went before you disconnect them). You never want to turn on your water heater if there is no water in that side of the tank. That will surely burn out the element. Not rocket science.
Thank you Bill. I'll try to do this. Is there anythng else? Extra fuse or switch or something else I need to be aware?
Real easy
Take a dvm, and set it to AC volts. If you haven't got a DVM, its time to buy one. You can find usable units for $20, no sweat.
Connect dvm leads to water Heater element terminals.
Make triple sure the dvm is on AC volts.
Turn on the water Heater circuit (plug in boat again)
If you read 120v, the element is bad.
If not, your thermostat might be tripped.
If you need to replace the element, do the following:
Drain tank.
Unplug your boat.
Take photos of how wires connect to element.
Remove element & replace
Note: if it is a screw-in element, you need a 1 1/2" socket wrench.
Good luck
Power off. Better still, unplug your boat.
Take a dvm, and set it to AC volts. If you haven't got a DVM, its time to buy one. You can find usable units for $20, no sweat.
Connect dvm leads to water Heater element terminals.
Make triple sure the dvm is on AC volts.
Turn on the water Heater circuit (plug in boat again)
If you read 120v, the element is bad.
If not, your thermostat might be tripped.
If you need to replace the element, do the following:
Drain tank.
Unplug your boat.
Take photos of how wires connect to element.
Remove element & replace
Note: if it is a screw-in element, you need a 1 1/2" socket wrench.
Good luck
If your 35.5 is anything like my 33.5 I would start by checking Circurt Brearker/Switch at the electrical panel first, then move to the check that ARTBOAS mentions above. Had a similar problem in the past on a Catilina 30 and it was the CB/switch.
For us rookies, could you give us step-by-step instructions like Artboas did? Thanks...
When my Seaward 6 gal heater stopped working, I turned the power off, removed the metal cover over the electrical connections on the heater, identified where the power came in to the unit, turned the power on and used a tester to see if I had power at these terminals....I did, so I assume it was the element...but I noticed that the wires then went to a reset switch of some sort with a red reset button on it. Tr button did not seem to do anything when pushed in. There was no power at the element terminals, so I replaced this switch....a temperature limiting switch I think it is called. About $15plus s&h. The switch is held on by 1 or 2 screws, and has terminal screws for the incoming and outgoing wires...very simple to replace.....just make sure your power is off, and that you pay attention to which wires connect where. Before buying a new element, use your multi tester to determine where the power "stops". That will be the culprit. If every thing checks out, and you have power at the terminals of the element...then the element is probably bad. I looked through my photos, but could not find one of the electrical connections.
Greg
Indeed you can test whether you have juice at the element or at the switch but you can also test the lement itself with a simple ohm meter. See how on attached link.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
An excellent point. I also checked the element with an ohm meter and it showed continuity, meaning it probably was not the actual element.
Greg
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