Water Heater on a Hunter 28
- Thread starter dtex
- Start date
Thanks. I figured it should have been located there, or in the compartment just to port of there. The surveyor either forgot to check it or forgot to mention it. A few weeks after I bought the boat, I realized the hot water didn't work and I started looking for the heater. I found no sign of it. If I would have known how much marine water heaters cost at the time, I would have checked it myself during the survey.
I had a hunter 280, and the water heater stopped working (on AC) shortly after I purchased her. Checked the electric circuit and was not getting power to the element, but was getting power to the junction box on the heater. Turned out to be a $5 reset switch that was burned out. So first, check the continuity on the element to see if the element is bad. If not, then check to see if you are getting power to the element. If not, trace backwards and look for a reset switch. You are supposed to be able reset the switch by pushing in on the small red or black button. Mine would not reset, so I replaced it for about $5.
Don't buy a new heater until you check the electric circuit and see if it can be fixed.
Greg
Thanks for the input, but the water heater is gone. I figured it must have started leaking, so one of the previous owners just removed it. That is why I was wondering where it was originally located.
I have replaced my water heater which was a Seaward 6 gal with both electric and rear heat exchanger. Sure a bit of work but only a few hours. Cost was something like $250. Let me know if you want details and or pics. This was on my Hunter 30T which I assume is the same water heater configure as yours.
Yes, I am definitely interested in details of the unit and installation. Much appreciated.
Hunter 30T Water Heater factory Installation
Picks of my factory installation that I replaced with the same unit attached.
Images 1-3 are to give you a general perspective.
Images 4-5 are over head views of both ends of the water heater.
Image 6 is the heat exchanger (option) of the water heater. Basically connections to/from the engine cooling system that heats fresh hot water whenever the engine is running. I like this option. I don't think the flow matters as it is not labeled as in/out.
Image 7 is the main side of the water heater with the plumbing and electrical connections. 120vas in for shore power connection to heat hot water. Cold water in and hot water out. Don't get these backwards. Simple connections using standard hand tight water fittings (ok so I did use a wrench a bit but do not over tighten). Pressure vent factory standard you just need to extend this to your sump. The bottom left is the anode that I put in and replaced the factory drain faucet. I replace the anode yearly. Make it a bit more difficult to drain in the winter living in Minnesota.
For replacement you need to completely remove only the top on the cabinet. A few screws but it did come apart and go back together nicely! I was thinking I had to take more apart but only needed to take the top (white part) off.
This water hear replacement (or addition) can be done by someone who is generally a home fit it yourself person. Not all that difficult.
Let me know any questions.
Dan
Picks of my factory installation that I replaced with the same unit attached.
Images 1-3 are to give you a general perspective.
Images 4-5 are over head views of both ends of the water heater.
Image 6 is the heat exchanger (option) of the water heater. Basically connections to/from the engine cooling system that heats fresh hot water whenever the engine is running. I like this option. I don't think the flow matters as it is not labeled as in/out.
Image 7 is the main side of the water heater with the plumbing and electrical connections. 120vas in for shore power connection to heat hot water. Cold water in and hot water out. Don't get these backwards. Simple connections using standard hand tight water fittings (ok so I did use a wrench a bit but do not over tighten). Pressure vent factory standard you just need to extend this to your sump. The bottom left is the anode that I put in and replaced the factory drain faucet. I replace the anode yearly. Make it a bit more difficult to drain in the winter living in Minnesota.
For replacement you need to completely remove only the top on the cabinet. A few screws but it did come apart and go back together nicely! I was thinking I had to take more apart but only needed to take the top (white part) off.
This water hear replacement (or addition) can be done by someone who is generally a home fit it yourself person. Not all that difficult.
Let me know any questions.
Dan
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Re: Hunter 30T Water Heater factory Installation
Thanks Dan. What was the brand and model of the heater and where did you purchase it?
Thanks Dan. What was the brand and model of the heater and where did you purchase it?
Seaward 6 Gallon Water Heater, Galvanized, Rear Exchanger
I believe the model was the S600 for the rear facing heat exchanger. There is a front facing model as well. Everything is the same except where the hoes connect to the engine heat exchanger.
I believe I purchase mine from www.jamestowndistributors.com
Several folks sell the exact same part.
I have attached the manual for your reference.
I believe the model was the S600 for the rear facing heat exchanger. There is a front facing model as well. Everything is the same except where the hoes connect to the engine heat exchanger.
I believe I purchase mine from www.jamestowndistributors.com
Several folks sell the exact same part.
I have attached the manual for your reference.