I'm new to engine maintenance and am trying to determine whether our engine has a water heater hose. It used to have a hot water heater, but it was removed. I'm assuming we won't have a hotwater heater hose because of this, but want some confirmation since I'm draining out our coolant and flushing with clean water before replacing the new coolant and I've read that you need to flush out the water heater hose during this process. I've attached pictures of our engine below. Thanks for any help!
Water heater hose
- Thread starter pariseaux
- Start date
The two hoses that appear to go into the floor in the first picture are probably going to the water heater.
Par,
#1, do you have a hot water tank?
#2, are there hoses coming from the tank?
#3, can you follow the hoses to anywhere on your engine.
The pics don't really tell me anything, make a sketch & you should know what hoses go where. You will find what's really going on.
Check this out & let us know what you find.
CR
#1, do you have a hot water tank?
#2, are there hoses coming from the tank?
#3, can you follow the hoses to anywhere on your engine.
The pics don't really tell me anything, make a sketch & you should know what hoses go where. You will find what's really going on.
Check this out & let us know what you find.
CR
On my 3 GM, in the middle picture, the aft-most hose sends water to the heater coil and the one just behind the pulley is the return hose from the water tank coil .. or where the coil used to be..The return hose has a bleeder in it to be used for burping after refilling. Someone probably just put a jumper (connected those hoses together) back where the heater was so that when a new heater went in, it would be easy. Those hoses on the back side look to be fuel return from the injectors back to the tank and a tee to the fuel pump.. That is a little strange.
Kloudie
Think that might be some kind of "poor man's" fuel polisher? That looks like the in line to the secondary filter. Wow.
Rick.. I dunno..?? Looks like a variation of the rig that was used on the older QM series Yanmars where the return went to the top of the secondary filter .. This one looks like it tees into the lift pump suction line.. and it looks from the paint and clamps to be original.. Should make trying to bleed that thing kinda.... uuhhh.. interesting! Must be a very early GM series.. most 33's of that era had a 2 QM20.
Kloudie
I completely agree. When I am in a pinch, I use my oil boy and disconnect the line going into my manual pump, yep old school but she hasnt let me down. So I can bleed that to the secondary filter in a hearbeat. Then just undo the 10mm screw, couple of pumps and I am bled through it.. then if I need the second bleed before the high pressure pump, no worries.
Just wondering, that is just like a sprinkler loop in your yard. Good in theory because if you can run it through your primary and secondary filter.. its free polishing.
But if you flameout and have to bleed the system, as you said, without some kind of a valve, how in the hell will you have a chance to bleed that and not cavitate the high pressure side? Initially I say no..you should be fine but nothing ever breaks in the slip.. so now your at sea... your thoughts? Hot engine.. oh how sailing rocks.
Also Koudie as I respect your insight would you please take a look at my thread about my inverter.. would appreciate it.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners...t will freeze, my take is yes it does matter.
I completely agree. When I am in a pinch, I use my oil boy and disconnect the line going into my manual pump, yep old school but she hasnt let me down. So I can bleed that to the secondary filter in a hearbeat. Then just undo the 10mm screw, couple of pumps and I am bled through it.. then if I need the second bleed before the high pressure pump, no worries.
Just wondering, that is just like a sprinkler loop in your yard. Good in theory because if you can run it through your primary and secondary filter.. its free polishing.
But if you flameout and have to bleed the system, as you said, without some kind of a valve, how in the hell will you have a chance to bleed that and not cavitate the high pressure side? Initially I say no..you should be fine but nothing ever breaks in the slip.. so now your at sea... your thoughts? Hot engine.. oh how sailing rocks.
Also Koudie as I respect your insight would you please take a look at my thread about my inverter.. would appreciate it.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners...t will freeze, my take is yes it does matter.
Trying to drain the hoses to the water heater and anywhere else they may decide to wander can be a real pain.
An easier methed is to change the fluid every two years which exchanges about 75% of the coolant. Doing it that frequently ensures you're always keeping the protective chemicals up to the required levels.
Also, using distilled water with the antifreeze ensures it's as clean coming out after two years as it was going in.
Yep! Adding a "header tank" also aids greatly in a drain-n-fill. I have a pet cock at a low point and a header tank at the high point. I drain it off 2 quarts at a time, add 2 quarts, run, repeat until the system is flushed. I do a drain-n-fill once per year & the system is spotless... Changing my AF mix is about the easiest job I can do on our boat other than the gear fluid but prior to the header tank it was not so easy because a header tank also self bleeds.......
Years ago lots of boats came standard with a header tank, Ericson, CS, Cape Dory, Bristol etc.. but builders stropped due to the added expense..The OP has either a bus heater or a water heater plumbed into that engine. Where the hoses go I can't say....
