Water from engine compartment

Jun 6, 2011
5
Hunter 27 Alameda
I have a 1980 Hunter 27 with a Renault diesel engine. The stuffing gland is leaking so lots of water comes into the boat via the propeller shaft. I have it booked into the yard to be lifted out to have the stuffing gland repacked. In the meantime, the water under the engine stays there and there doesn't appear to be a way for it to reach the bilge to be pumped out. The only bilge pump is under the cabin sole. Now the water has to travel across the floor before it can be pumped out. This doesn't seem correct. Isn't there usually a hole under the floor so water can travel from under the engine compartment to the main bilge under the cabin floor? Also, I am surprised there isn't a manual pump that can be manned on deck to empty this water out overboard. Any comments or suggestions?
Thanks, Bob CB
 
Mar 6, 2012
357
Hunter H33 (limited edition cabin top) Bayou Chico
the boat was designed to hold that water seperate from the bilge so that any oil/fuel leaks would be somewhat contained, lots of ppl drill limber holes there to connect it to the bilge but i would caution you on that since if you spill oil or fuel during maintenance you could incur a fine for pollution.
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
Couple of thoughts: (1) you may be able to save yourself a bundle by repacking the gland yourself. It is "usually" not a difficult task depending on the condition of the packing and compression nuts. I can send you instructions for how I've done it on my H28.5, or better yet, look up Mainesail's article as it is excellent. (2) water from the packing gland should be sea water and, as such, can be pumped out and overboard from the bilge. If there is not current route to the bilge on your boat, I would plumb one as that, too, is not a difficult task. But, as noted in other posts here, if you have a fuel or oil leak under the engine, fix that first in any event.
 
May 24, 2004
7,176
CC 30 South Florida
If I'm not mistaken on the h27 the area where the stuffing box usually leaks into is separate from the pan under the engine and the water should go straight down into the hull. Now a badly leaking stuffing box can indeed direct water to the engine pan. This pan is designed to hold any engine fluids and as such it does not drain into the bilge. Once you repair the stuffing box check the engine for any leaks.
 
Nov 11, 2009
44
Pearson 365 Ketch Babylon, Long Island
I'm not familiar with your setup but, did you try tightening the packing gland nut? It may just need a sliight adjustment if the packing is still good. It should drip some while running.
 
Jun 6, 2011
5
Hunter 27 Alameda
Repacking stuffing gland

Couple of thoughts: (1) you may be able to save yourself a bundle by repacking the gland yourself. It is "usually" not a difficult task depending on the condition of the packing and compression nuts. I can send you instructions for how I've done it on my H28.5, or better yet, look up Mainesail's article as it is excellent. (2) water from the packing gland should be sea water and, as such, can be pumped out and overboard from the bilge. If there is not current route to the bilge on your boat, I would plumb one as that, too, is not a difficult task. But, as noted in other posts here, if you have a fuel or oil leak under the engine, fix that first in any event.
Thanks for your helpful comments. I was advised by the boat yard that it is advisable to have the boat near a crane in case it starts to fill up with water during the repacking process. The gland has been tightened as much as possible already, so it will have to be taken apart. Have you been able to do this while afloat? I'd like to try it as one day it may be necessary in mid ocean without a crane handy.
 
Jan 4, 2007
406
Hunter 30 Centerport
Crane ...good idea but hopefully not necessary

If the water is warm and you have a diving mask you can used a thin screwdriver and a few old t shirt strips forced into the gap between the shaft and the bronze shaft log (the fitting under the boat). This is temporary!

Inside the boat wrap the packing 3 times around the shaft and cut with a razor blade. Cut on a diagonal which will give you 3 strips of packing the correct size.

Loosen the lock nut on the packing and back out the seal nut. Slide it up on shaft and now dig the old backing. There are corkscrew tools but dental picks always worked better for me, when you get all the old packing out put the new packing in 1 at a time with the seams staggered. Some recommend the Teflon shaft grease or that green putty packing....I've always had good luck with the old fashioned stuff.


Tighter up about 1/2 way.

When you're done pull the t shirt strip out from under the boat......

You'll have to run the motor in drive to properly adjust the packing.

Hopefully you won't need the crane.... I usually try to re pack when the boat is out of the water for my winter haul. But I have done it with the boat in while on my mooring....... Not a very comfortable thing thing to do but it does so do.... But you gotta do what you gotta do!