I noticed this weekend that the bulkhead underneath the starboard side shroud chainplate, and fore of the starboard port, seems to have water damage. Although it was not moist to the touch. Any suggestions on how to test whether there's a leaky chainplate involved? Could it simply be condesation from wintering over? How do I tell the source of this damage?
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Jon W.
Tough to tell
But unless you have seen a lot of condensation inside the boat, and possibly bad effects in areas other than the bulkhead, then I would think you have a leaking chainplate. Mine was leaking on the starboard side almost from day one. I saw the telltale signs of darkening wood, but no visible drips. When I pulled it out, the minimal amount of sealing material I found was a real eye opener. Also, the varnish on the bulkhead under the entire length of the chainplate was deteriorated from moisture. So I went ahead and redid the port side as well. Pulling out the chainplate, cleaning up the through deck hole, and applying lots of 3M 4200 when reinstalling, is a little tedious, but not real difficult. The lower shrouds held the mast up as I did each side in turn.
But unless you have seen a lot of condensation inside the boat, and possibly bad effects in areas other than the bulkhead, then I would think you have a leaking chainplate. Mine was leaking on the starboard side almost from day one. I saw the telltale signs of darkening wood, but no visible drips. When I pulled it out, the minimal amount of sealing material I found was a real eye opener. Also, the varnish on the bulkhead under the entire length of the chainplate was deteriorated from moisture. So I went ahead and redid the port side as well. Pulling out the chainplate, cleaning up the through deck hole, and applying lots of 3M 4200 when reinstalling, is a little tedious, but not real difficult. The lower shrouds held the mast up as I did each side in turn.
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Malcolm
Had a similar Problem
The starboard chainplate on our 310 also leaked staining the teak bulkhead for some distance either side of the chainplate. The good news is that after the leak was fixed by reseating the timber dried out and is almost as good as new. regards Malcolm
The starboard chainplate on our 310 also leaked staining the teak bulkhead for some distance either side of the chainplate. The good news is that after the leak was fixed by reseating the timber dried out and is almost as good as new. regards Malcolm
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Bob James
310 Leak
Carl: Not sure this is the same problem, but, I have #118 and noticed dampness at the bulkhead on the starboard side bench seat. The wood cover was damp right at the bulkhead. I did not find any water in the storage locker and could not find any clue as to the source. Same bulkhead on the other side in the forward cabin was not wet. I left the cushion off last week and did not notice any dampness and did the same thing today when I left the boat. I thought it might be from the opening port above but could not see any evidence of that. Looked around topsides with no cluye or idea. Now that I see someone else has noticed the same problem, I'll poke around a little more.
Carl: Not sure this is the same problem, but, I have #118 and noticed dampness at the bulkhead on the starboard side bench seat. The wood cover was damp right at the bulkhead. I did not find any water in the storage locker and could not find any clue as to the source. Same bulkhead on the other side in the forward cabin was not wet. I left the cushion off last week and did not notice any dampness and did the same thing today when I left the boat. I thought it might be from the opening port above but could not see any evidence of that. Looked around topsides with no cluye or idea. Now that I see someone else has noticed the same problem, I'll poke around a little more.
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John J.
Bulkhead leak
310, Hull #23, same problem. As soon as we re-beded the chainplates the problem(pun intended) dried up. Have had the boat in the water for exactly one year, and no other leakes that I know of.
310, Hull #23, same problem. As soon as we re-beded the chainplates the problem(pun intended) dried up. Have had the boat in the water for exactly one year, and no other leakes that I know of.
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Bob James
Re-beding chainplates
What is involved in re-beding a chainplate? How long does it take? Did you do all on both sides? My dealer has given me the option of doing the job myself (says I will learn how to do an easy job) or having one of his guys do it. Any opinions?
What is involved in re-beding a chainplate? How long does it take? Did you do all on both sides? My dealer has given me the option of doing the job myself (says I will learn how to do an easy job) or having one of his guys do it. Any opinions?
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Andrew
C310 Owner's Manual says...
I just bought a new 310 and was reading the owner's manual last night. On the bottom of page 8 there is this note: "It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few times as some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage to the interior wood and finishes." If you can get your dealer to fix it without too much inconvenience, I would. However, it would be quicker and easier for me to do it myself.
I just bought a new 310 and was reading the owner's manual last night. On the bottom of page 8 there is this note: "It may be necessary to rebed the chainplates after the boat has been sailed the first few times as some movement between the deck and the metal chainplate may break the bedding material seal. This movement is normal. Chainplates should be rebedded or caulked at the first sign of a leak to avoid damage to the interior wood and finishes." If you can get your dealer to fix it without too much inconvenience, I would. However, it would be quicker and easier for me to do it myself.
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John J.
Chainplates
If you're not sure of the job, let the dealer do it. Try to plan it so you can be there to watch and learn. It is not a difficult job, it just takes a little time.
If you're not sure of the job, let the dealer do it. Try to plan it so you can be there to watch and learn. It is not a difficult job, it just takes a little time.
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Jon W
Re-bedding steps
I decided that re-bedding the chainplate myself was less trouble that arranging to have the dealer do it. Plus I figured I would do a better job. The dealer had tried to stop a leak during commissioning by squirting some sealer under the cover plate, which is hard to do and not very effective. I only had to do the main chainplates (both sides) but the fore and aft lowers should be easier. The job should take an hour or maybe two, per chainplate. I used 3M 4200 as sealer. First, you loosen the intermediate and upper shrouds until very slack. If you count how many turns of the turnbuckles, you can get them back into adjustment quicker. Then remove the small teak trim piece under the deck, and remove the half dozen or so nuts from inside the forward locker and push the bolts out. Pull the chainplate up out of the deck and clean off old sealant. I used a soft scraper and then some cleaner/wax. Remove four screws and the cover plate by prying up. Clean old sealer out of the hole in the deck with a small knife. Put the chainplate with cover plate back in and just put a bolt or two back in the chainplate loosely. You want to be able to move the chainplate and cover plate forward and back slightly as you squirt in sealant. Try to fill the hole as full as possible. This was the part they didn’t do well at the factory, there were large gaps. Then tighten everything down, clean up, and re-adjust the shrouds. I used a file to try and enlarge the slot in the cover plates to make it easier to squirt the sealant in.
I decided that re-bedding the chainplate myself was less trouble that arranging to have the dealer do it. Plus I figured I would do a better job. The dealer had tried to stop a leak during commissioning by squirting some sealer under the cover plate, which is hard to do and not very effective. I only had to do the main chainplates (both sides) but the fore and aft lowers should be easier. The job should take an hour or maybe two, per chainplate. I used 3M 4200 as sealer. First, you loosen the intermediate and upper shrouds until very slack. If you count how many turns of the turnbuckles, you can get them back into adjustment quicker. Then remove the small teak trim piece under the deck, and remove the half dozen or so nuts from inside the forward locker and push the bolts out. Pull the chainplate up out of the deck and clean off old sealant. I used a soft scraper and then some cleaner/wax. Remove four screws and the cover plate by prying up. Clean old sealer out of the hole in the deck with a small knife. Put the chainplate with cover plate back in and just put a bolt or two back in the chainplate loosely. You want to be able to move the chainplate and cover plate forward and back slightly as you squirt in sealant. Try to fill the hole as full as possible. This was the part they didn’t do well at the factory, there were large gaps. Then tighten everything down, clean up, and re-adjust the shrouds. I used a file to try and enlarge the slot in the cover plates to make it easier to squirt the sealant in.
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