Hi Everyone! I have been finishing up numerous winter projects prior to putting the boat back in the water. I finished this one, tested it last night, and now I wanted to post pictures which I will leave in the photo forum. The project was to install a water/bilge pump into the water ballast tank so that I could quickly empty the tank. Last year I took the boat out of the water in December. From November to December I worried about water in the tank freezing. It would have been nice to be able to pump it out while it was still in its slip. Additional, getting the boat on the trailer and getting off sand bars should be easier when I can pump the tank out at my convenience. The project used a 500 GPH Rule Bilge Pump ($20 West Marine) and a Beckson Deck Plate $15 West Marine) and about $10 of plastic hose I had laying around the house. The Rule Pump emptied the tank in about twenty (20) minutes. It actually took longer to fill the tank with the garden hose then it did to empty it with the pump. The long plastic hoses I will leave in the tank when not in use and the pump I will leave under the step next to the deck plate when not in use.
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Nice job Bob
I wonder if you had thought about perhaps running the hose under the rear bunk and connecting to the bilge hose so it becomes a permanent installation. I must check this out this weekend for we have a real problem pulling our 260 out for by the time we get her to the top of the ramp she has slipped back on the trailer about 6 inches and it takes a lot to wind up afterwards.
I wonder if you had thought about perhaps running the hose under the rear bunk and connecting to the bilge hose so it becomes a permanent installation. I must check this out this weekend for we have a real problem pulling our 260 out for by the time we get her to the top of the ramp she has slipped back on the trailer about 6 inches and it takes a lot to wind up afterwards.
wow
wow- you did a great job. thank you so much for posting all the great pictures. I know first hand how long that can take. Keep us informed of all your projects. Bet you have a bunch in mind!!
wow- you did a great job. thank you so much for posting all the great pictures. I know first hand how long that can take. Keep us informed of all your projects. Bet you have a bunch in mind!!
Nice job Bob, but...
...I have some concerns that the inspection port may not be up to the task with the pressures involved (true they are small) in the tank. Thin "O" rings have been know to fail. what about a heavier duty unit? Otherwise great idea and work. As you know, I've always kept a small drill opperated unit to pump out the tank if I get grounded. alan
...I have some concerns that the inspection port may not be up to the task with the pressures involved (true they are small) in the tank. Thin "O" rings have been know to fail. what about a heavier duty unit? Otherwise great idea and work. As you know, I've always kept a small drill opperated unit to pump out the tank if I get grounded. alan
To Jim of Houston
I am not sure of the name of the tool I used to cut the hole. This tool is quite common and is used most frequently to cut holes in sheet rock/wall board when installing "High Hat" lights. It fits on the end of a drill. I also used the same tool to cut a hole in my fresh water tank so that I can empty the tank at the end of the season and keep it clean easier. Naturally, after I cut the hole I installed a Beckson Deck Plate. Regards, Bob
I am not sure of the name of the tool I used to cut the hole. This tool is quite common and is used most frequently to cut holes in sheet rock/wall board when installing "High Hat" lights. It fits on the end of a drill. I also used the same tool to cut a hole in my fresh water tank so that I can empty the tank at the end of the season and keep it clean easier. Naturally, after I cut the hole I installed a Beckson Deck Plate. Regards, Bob
Draining water ballast
Mark, if you are sliding back on the trailer, try draining the ballast tank on the ramp, then partially floating the boat with empty ballast and cranking the trailer winch all the way up, then pull the trailer up and off the ramp. This will also work if you are not satisfied with how the boat is centered on the trailer.
Mark, if you are sliding back on the trailer, try draining the ballast tank on the ramp, then partially floating the boat with empty ballast and cranking the trailer winch all the way up, then pull the trailer up and off the ramp. This will also work if you are not satisfied with how the boat is centered on the trailer.
Marcel & Steve
Yes I have a nylon strap the same as seat belt material. It is a good idea to re-float once the tank has drained however at our very very busy ramps you rarely get the chance to do that.
Yes I have a nylon strap the same as seat belt material. It is a good idea to re-float once the tank has drained however at our very very busy ramps you rarely get the chance to do that.
Mark, could this be the problem?
My 94 H-26 came with a 3/16" steel winch cable, my buddies 95 H-26 came with a 2" black nylon winch strap. He would complain about his boat slipping back after pulling it out of the water. We were coming back to the ramp after a trip once, and there was a heavy crosswind, so we were going to help each other recover the boats. I went first, Ed winched the boat on until the cable hook eye touched the winch, and we pulled it out, no problem. I winched Ed's boat on, tightened the strap as much as I dared, and as it came out of the water I watched it slide back from the bow roller about 3". After dumping the ballast we were able to bring it up all the way by re-floating the boat. The only thing we could figure is that the nylon stretches from the weight of the boat going up the ramp. The only other H-26 that I know of here in Vegas has a cable and no problems. The way the boat sits in the picture is the way it initially winches on. Have any other forum members had a similar experience?
My 94 H-26 came with a 3/16" steel winch cable, my buddies 95 H-26 came with a 2" black nylon winch strap. He would complain about his boat slipping back after pulling it out of the water. We were coming back to the ramp after a trip once, and there was a heavy crosswind, so we were going to help each other recover the boats. I went first, Ed winched the boat on until the cable hook eye touched the winch, and we pulled it out, no problem. I winched Ed's boat on, tightened the strap as much as I dared, and as it came out of the water I watched it slide back from the bow roller about 3". After dumping the ballast we were able to bring it up all the way by re-floating the boat. The only thing we could figure is that the nylon stretches from the weight of the boat going up the ramp. The only other H-26 that I know of here in Vegas has a cable and no problems. The way the boat sits in the picture is the way it initially winches on. Have any other forum members had a similar experience?
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Yes Marcel
I am confident that is the problem. I may replace the nylon with a cable. Thanks for your advice.
I am confident that is the problem. I may replace the nylon with a cable. Thanks for your advice.
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