Yes if you can get the solids exposed to the chemicals.Is there a way chemically to loosen the solids, and get them out?
That device is designed for use in RV tanks, which dump out the bottom via gravity. Marine holding tanks are sucked out through a 1.5" ID hose, which is smaller than the dump fitting in the bottom of an RV tank. So unless you can break up the sludge into pieces small enough to make it through the pumpout fitting and hose,Just breaking it up into chunks could cause more problems than solves.Yes if you can get the solids exposed to the chemicals.
But...You might use water pressure to "blast most free" first.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX7YC/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&th=1
Jim...
That's not going to be a good day......You might use water pressure to "blast most free" first...
I take it that muriatic acid would work but falls into the "damage the system" category? Is there some level of dilution that might loosen things up that also would not be harmful? I'm guessing not or you would have recommended it.But if the sludge has dried and turned to "concrete" on the bottom of the tank, I don't know of anything except MAYBE NoFlex (available from the online store here) that will soften it up again so it can be pumped out that won't also damage the system.
Muriatic acid works to clean out sea water mineral buildup in the hoses--and won't harm the system when used as directed--but won't dissolve sludge that's turned to concrete. When it comes buildup in the toilet discharge line, like most things prevention is easier than cure: a cupful of undiluted distilled white vinegar flushed all the way through the system weekly, followed in about 45 minutes by a couple of quarts of clean FRESH water.I take it that muriatic acid would work but falls into the "damage the system" category?
Now that's interesting. I have a Thetford 550P MSD that had some some sludge that turned to "concrete" and the muriatic acid made short work of it. In that case, though, I removed the entire porta potty and treated it separate from the rest of the boat's plumbing. (I did not have any significant build up in the hose from the porta potty to the macerator and from the macerator to the through hull.)Muriatic acid works to clean out sea water mineral buildup in the hoses--and won't harm the system when used as directed--but won't dissolve sludge that's turned to concrete. When it comes buildup in the toilet discharge line, like most things prevention is easier than cure: a cupful of undiluted distilled white vinegar flushed all the way through the system weekly, followed in about 45 minutes by a couple of quarts of clean FRESH water.
Really? That MAY be because unless you're filling the flush water reservoir with buckets of sea water, what you had was just solid waste that hadn't quite fossilized yet, no mineral or salt in the mixture. Since you had no mineral buildup in the discharge line, though, it's more likely that you're flushing with fresh. Whatever the reason, it's first time I've heard of muriatic acid working on "concrete" sludge.I have a Thetford 550P MSD that had some some sludge that turned to "concrete" and the muriatic acid made short work of it.
Interesting thought that would never have occurred to me. But now that you've mentioned it, it's definitely a possibility on boat on the hard for the winter in MI. In that case, thawing it out by warming up the tank a bit might be all that's needed to soften it up enough to pump it out. Just warming up the boat with a ceramic heater should be enough to do the trick...he'd need power though.Are you sure it is just not frozen.
I always and only use FW in the reservoir. It was definitely calcified-- kinda like shale. It had sat in the bottom below the pickup tube despite my running 3 buckets of fw through the system after each trip. I now rinse everything out more thoroughly and will keep a closer eye on it in the future. Fortunately, unbolting the whole thing and cleaning it out at home is not a major task.Really? That MAY be because unless you're filling the flush water reservoir with buckets of sea water, what you had was just solid waste that hadn't quite fossilized yet, no mineral or salt in the mixture. Since you had no mineral buildup in the discharge line, though, it's more likely that you're flushing with fresh. Whatever the reason, it's first time I've heard of muriatic acid working on "concrete" sludge.
What you had wasn't sludge, it was something called "struvites"--urine crystal buildup. They're rarely found in marine holding tanks because most marine toilets use about 2 liters of flush water, but they're very common in RV tanks connected directly below direct drop toilets because RV toilets use so little water--only barely enough to slide the flush down the "trapdoor" in the bottom of the bowl...which also describes how most portapotties are flushed. Prevention is simple: run a bucket of water through the tank (it can be sea water if your fresh water is in short supply) each time you pumpout or dump...or at least fairly often. You might also consider switching to Noflex tank treatment if you're not using that already.I always and only use FW in the reservoir. It was definitely calcified-- kinda like shale.
Interesting. Well, I did make it a habit of running a few buckets of fresh water through the tank after a multi-day trip, but I still got the "struvites" just the same. I plan to be even more thorough in my rinsing regimen in the future.What you had wasn't sludge, it was something called "struvites"--urine crystal buildup. They're rarely found in marine holding tanks because most marine toilets use about 2 liters of flush water, but they're very common in RV tanks connected directly below direct drop toilets because RV toilets use so little water--only barely enough to slide the flush down the "trapdoor" in the bottom of the bowl...which also describes how most portapotties are flushed. Prevention is simple: run a bucket of water through the tank (it can be sea water if your fresh water is in short supply) each time you pumpout or dump...or at least fairly often. You might also consider switching to Noflex tank treatment if you're not using that already.
But I learn something new every day, 'cuz I never would have thought that muriatic acid would dissolve "concrete" sludge OR struvites.
I used it through the RV vent line on my boat. Then again through the level sensor.That device is designed for use in RV tanks, which dump out the bottom via gravity.