Wash down system for H356

[Jim Seamans]

Well, I'm finally getting around to installing a wash down system for the bow. Has anyone have/done this. I expect to install the pump in the area forward of the fresh water tank and tap into the electrical via the windless. Anyone else have this configuration? How did you run the water intake hose? Back to the thru hulls? What kind of hose was it?Regular reniforced garden hose be ok?Questions Questions???JimS/V Java

 

[Bob]

mounting

Jim,For what it's worth you'll probably want to put in a dedicated thru hull and seacock. A good spot seems to be in the area where the depth and speed transducers are located or just a bit forward under the v berth but aft of the fresh water tank.

 

[Jim Seamans]

Good suggestions so far

Bob,Don't want to cut any more holes.Rich,Good call on the plastic. On the H356, all of the thru hulls are located at the bottom of the companionway steps. I was thinking of tapping in there and running the intake line forward to the v-berth. This way I don't have to remember to go forward and close the valve.Keep the ideas coming.. I've got plenty of time...Jim

 

[Jerry Clark H356 SV Persistence]

Tap the head intake line

Jim:I had mine installed at commissioning and I can't remember off hand where the pump is located. We tapped the head intake and ran a line to the bow inside the anchor locker for anchor wash down. I also have another hose outlet in the stern for washing down the cockpit and washing away bugs. It can also be used to wash down a stern anchor. It is opposite the shower, just behind the engine cut off.I recommend you use a separate breaker for the pump. Mine cycles a lot when on because the hose leaks a little at the connection to the line. I have used teflon tape and hose washers, but it never seems to be completely watertight for long. If you use the windlass, it will be on all the time and you will possibly have the annoyance of the cycling.

 

[Bob]

intake

Jim,Seen it done both ways on 356's and 36's. The problem with tapping off of the head intake on that boat is that if the washdown pump is worth a darn it will tend to suck some air in from the toilet and not pump properly. It's one of those things, on some boats you might get away with it and on others you can't. A lot probably has to do with how far below the water line the intake sits. If it absolutely kills you to put a hole in the boat I'd suggest putting in a 3 way valve that you'll have to switch when you use the washdown vs the head.Bob

 

[chuckwayne]

356 washdown system

Jim,we did essentially what you're planning-pump is mounted on the bulkhead forward of the fresh water tank, powered off the windlass circuit (so it's always on when the windlass is on). we used reinforced clear nylon water line, but you could use good garden hose. the pump output goes to a marine faucet mounted to port of the windlass on the flat surface in the anchor locker. we tee'd into the fresh water line on the tank output because I wanted a freshwater washdown-used 15mm whale fittings to add a tee and a shutoff, then converted to std 1/2" hose. If you plan to use salt water, I'd tee off on an existing thru hull before I added another hole in my boat. the setup works great, and the anchor locker stays critter free. I would never share the head pickup-a good pump will suck stuff back out of the head, and not only will you induce air into the head pump, remember that the head pump is "contaminated"-it pumps the bad stuff, too.

 

[Jerry Clark H356 SV Persistence]

Mine's off head pick-up

There isn't any backflow from my head into the wash down system.

 

[chuckwayne]

what happens if the head seacock is closed?

nm

 

[chuckwayne]

Jerry, I stand corrected!

didn't know you had a sea-era! I've seen some marine heads installed without a siphon break on the intake line, and then I'd be concerned-but that can't happen with your setup

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Type of toilet has nothing to do with it,, Chuck

In any toilet--manual or electric--the only path from intake line into the bowl is the channel in the rim of the bowl...so the bowl would have to be full to the rim for bowl contents (waste) for a washdown pump to pull water out of a bowl--ANY bowl. And besides, a washdown pump needs to be teed into the head intake line close to the thru-hull to allow the pump to prime in time to prevent damage to the impeller in it...so it would divert water to itself way before it ever gets near the toilet. Nor would any vented loop in the head intake have anything to do with it...'cuz the vented loop shouldn't be in the head intake line between the thru-hull and the pump...it belongs in the line that connects the pump to the back of the bowl. So it's ok to use the head intake thru-hull for a washdown pump no matter what type of toilet, manual or electric.

 

[Jim Seamans]

Saw Crazy Dave this weekend and here is his answer

First, If I use the windlass for power, place a dedicated circuit breaker up in the vberth. I forget what the windlass breaker is rated for, but he told me I could damage or have a fire before the windlass breaker trips. There is a fuse in-line with the pump but would be better taken out and use the breaker.About the only location to draw water from would be the engine pickup since every thing else has the possiblity of sucking air. One thing I brought up was, since I have installed the new Gamin 3010 with integated speed and depth into one thru hull, I could use the old depth thru hull opening to install a valve and draw my water from there. Shorter run and less hose and easier to run the hose to the pump. He thought that was a better idea. So I'm going to check into that for ease of access.Will keep you guys posted. It might be February or March before I get to this. Sometime in January I get to have my right shoulder operated on for a rotator cuff tear. Told the doctor this had to be done soon since I don't want it getting in the way of sailing. Then I found out he had bought a H33 last spring and is about 10 miles down river from me. Now I have to bring charts to the operation to show him some good anchor spots. I wonder if I can get a discount?JimS/V Java

 

[Rich Stidger]

Jim, I didn't mention it before, but....

I did install a check valve just before my A/C pump and my washdown pump is connected to the output of the strainer before the check valve. That way I cannot pull water from my A/C system, only from the seacock and strainer.

 

[Tom Chastain]

Jim, sorry to go off course here but...

I am interested in the Garmin 3010 installation. Did you do it yourself and if so, how involved was the wireing?

 

[Jim Seamans]

Answer for you Tom

It was a bit of a pain getting down the tubing but worth it. Wish I had remember that slick stuff you put on wires for pulling them thru things. You can see the fun I had at the link.JimS/V Java

 

[Tom Chastain]

Thanks

Thanks for the link Jim. Very nice job but makes me want to look forward to wireless systems.

 

[Ivan]

Rich: How did you go through the bulkhead?

I am considering the same setup--tap into the A/C intake and run a hose through the bulkhead into the anchor locker. What fitting did you use to go through the floor of the anchor locker? Has it proven to be watertight?ThanksIvan BekeyH356 S/V Victoria

 

[Rich Stidger]

Ivan, the bulkhead fitting that I used is....

just like the Perko water outlet fitting pictured on page 421 of the 2006 WM Master Catalog. There are less expensive versions also available, and of course MUCH LESS expensive places to buy than WM.Absolutely no isues with water-tightness to the deck or leaking at the hose connections. Joint to the deck was caulked with a sealant.In retrospect, I would be more inclined to buy a fitting with a valve so that disconnecting the hose to attach a longer one would be easier. WM has some of those pictured on page 414 of the same catalog and Defender has on page 94 of their 2006 catalog. The prices of this stuff is just outrageous, and I would look for a similiar product from a standard plumbing source.

 

[chuckwayne]

washdown faucet

Ivan,we used the whitecap faucet on page 414 of the Wm catalog ($19) mounted on a section of pipe to go thru the horizontal portion of the anchor locker to port of the windlass-heavily caulked and screwed down, we've had no leak issues

 

[Mike4079]

Jim, take pics

Jim,be sure to take lots of pictures. The pics you took on the battery install saved me a week in figuring out how to do it.. oh, and go on and install a watermaker too, I'll need that next month..MikeMermaid HunterH356

 

[Cool Hand]

Check Valve is key

Jim -- you have a ton of good advice -- I have little to add. However, I've installed washdown pumps in 2 boats now, a Catalina 36 and a Hunter 420. In both cases I've teed into the head intake. The key, in my opinion, is to install a check valve in the line going to the head. This prevents anything, includiong air, from coming back to the washdown pump from the head. The washdown pump and hose nozzle on the washdown side also seal the washdown branch when not in use. I used a Whale plastic check valve, p 446 West catalog. Check your check valve by blowing through it - it should take very little effort to open the valve - that's why I chose the Whale. This system works perfectly. You might add one more "T" with a plug to give youo access to winterize the head and washdown pump easily. In the fall, just remove the plus, screw in a hose, and let your head and washdown pump "drink" from a bucket of antifreeze.CheersCool Hand