I have a 1995 Hunter 26 that, to the best of my knowledge, is still equiped with the factory installed "Rule 360GPM" bilge pump and the "Sure Ball Float" actuation device. After having read on this site about Rule bilge pump problems other owners had on different model Hunter boats I thought I should check mine. To say my blood ran cold and that I'm very mad is one of the nicest ways to convey this warning. I found all three factory 10 gauge wire connections that attached to the Rule pump/float were failed as they left the factory. The crimps were improper and the connector the wrong size for the pump wires. ALL THREE WIRES SEPARATED SIMPLY BY LIFTING THE PUMP OUT OF ITS MOUNT. This movement was no more that 6 inches, without stress, when the first wire failed. All three wires had bent back wire strands showing that they were not inserted into the connector properly at crimping time. The main wire harness from the control panel was still in its plastic flex protective housing and had talcum powder residue included. While there is not much possibility of this size pump doing much to control a serious water problem I damn sure expected it to be wired properly. What should I check next? Ray S/V Speedy
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H.J.van Tilborg
hole 's in hull
check the hull beneed de waterline striping there are posible many hole under the gelcoat
check the hull beneed de waterline striping there are posible many hole under the gelcoat
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Steve
bad deal
Ours was similar and had to cut off both ends and recrimp with the proper connectors and paint with liquid tape. I've thought of a larger pump in the future, or aleast as big as could fit in the space. Any major holing outside of the ballast tank, would certainly bring water over the sole quick, due to no real bildge area, so is this pump just meeting the CG standards and perhaps window dressing? We do have a double hulled boat as a safety factor however not much comfort. I don't think this boat would sink like a rock, it doesn't have the negative weight like a keel boat with an inboard engine and it appears to have a lot of foam to maintain horizontal stablility. You could likely sail the boat slowly home with the cabin filled to the cockpit. Talk about ballast. Fix the wiring, put a bigger pump in for a comfort level, and have fun..
Ours was similar and had to cut off both ends and recrimp with the proper connectors and paint with liquid tape. I've thought of a larger pump in the future, or aleast as big as could fit in the space. Any major holing outside of the ballast tank, would certainly bring water over the sole quick, due to no real bildge area, so is this pump just meeting the CG standards and perhaps window dressing? We do have a double hulled boat as a safety factor however not much comfort. I don't think this boat would sink like a rock, it doesn't have the negative weight like a keel boat with an inboard engine and it appears to have a lot of foam to maintain horizontal stablility. You could likely sail the boat slowly home with the cabin filled to the cockpit. Talk about ballast. Fix the wiring, put a bigger pump in for a comfort level, and have fun..
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Steve
Light Wiring
On my 2001 320, the bilge pump was wired so that when the battery selector switch was off, so was the bilge pump. Quick fix, but not a good way to leave the factory. On the DC lights in the cabin, the splices had up to 1/4" bare wire hanging out. This had the 12VDC right next to the ground wire (both bare). All ahve been redone, but again, not a good way to leave the factory. Might be a good idea to check all your wiring for more surprises!
On my 2001 320, the bilge pump was wired so that when the battery selector switch was off, so was the bilge pump. Quick fix, but not a good way to leave the factory. On the DC lights in the cabin, the splices had up to 1/4" bare wire hanging out. This had the 12VDC right next to the ground wire (both bare). All ahve been redone, but again, not a good way to leave the factory. Might be a good idea to check all your wiring for more surprises!
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Bob Gravenstine
Check the float switch too.
My 1996 H26 came wired from the factory with the float switch wired wrong. If you manually accuated the float, it blew the fuse. Check to be sure your pump comes on when the float is manually lifted. Mine worked fine from the switch panel but not when I tested the float switch. I notified Hunter about this but I don't know what if anything was done to notify other owners. Bob Gravenstine s/v Gravyboat
My 1996 H26 came wired from the factory with the float switch wired wrong. If you manually accuated the float, it blew the fuse. Check to be sure your pump comes on when the float is manually lifted. Mine worked fine from the switch panel but not when I tested the float switch. I notified Hunter about this but I don't know what if anything was done to notify other owners. Bob Gravenstine s/v Gravyboat
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Rick Engel
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Greg
Wiring diagram info
My 23.5 pump is wired wrong... i have that similar problem with the fuse blowing when the float switch activates. Any diagrams or ideas of how this is supposed to be wired... when i was messing with the wires, the connections fell apart. I need to fix them but the correct way. Any help?
My 23.5 pump is wired wrong... i have that similar problem with the fuse blowing when the float switch activates. Any diagrams or ideas of how this is supposed to be wired... when i was messing with the wires, the connections fell apart. I need to fix them but the correct way. Any help?
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Bob Gravenstine
Wiring
Greg, this is how mine is wired. Black wire to negative of pump from battery negative. Brown/Orange from manual position of switch to positive of pump. Brown/Red wire from the run position of the switch to one of the float switch wires. The other float switch wire to positive on the pump. You now have two connections to the positive side of the pump, one from the manual test switch and the other from the float switch. Hope this is clear. Bob Gravenstine s/v Gravyboat
Greg, this is how mine is wired. Black wire to negative of pump from battery negative. Brown/Orange from manual position of switch to positive of pump. Brown/Red wire from the run position of the switch to one of the float switch wires. The other float switch wire to positive on the pump. You now have two connections to the positive side of the pump, one from the manual test switch and the other from the float switch. Hope this is clear. Bob Gravenstine s/v Gravyboat
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Greg
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Alan Long
Been there
Hi I didn't find out about the shabby wiring on the bilge pump until the moment my 1994 23.5 started taking on water. The pump wouldn't work at all. Fortunately the trailer was nearby and we were able to get it loaded up before things got disastrous. I installed one of the pumps (I think it is a Rule) that uses no float switch. It automatically cycles off and on and if it detects water in the bilge it keeps pumping til it is gone. I thought that the cycling of the pump would be irritating, but you can barely hear it. Its reassuring to hear it come on and know it is working. It seems to draw very little current. I've never had a dead battery with a 10 watt solar panel doing the charging. Wishing you all dry bilges. Alan Long S/V Random Access
Hi I didn't find out about the shabby wiring on the bilge pump until the moment my 1994 23.5 started taking on water. The pump wouldn't work at all. Fortunately the trailer was nearby and we were able to get it loaded up before things got disastrous. I installed one of the pumps (I think it is a Rule) that uses no float switch. It automatically cycles off and on and if it detects water in the bilge it keeps pumping til it is gone. I thought that the cycling of the pump would be irritating, but you can barely hear it. Its reassuring to hear it come on and know it is working. It seems to draw very little current. I've never had a dead battery with a 10 watt solar panel doing the charging. Wishing you all dry bilges. Alan Long S/V Random Access
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