Our VHF antenna cable has a male and female connector at the base of the mast. The connector broke off of the coaxial cable that goes thro the deck. The other that comes out of the mast is about to go. We want to replace the connectors but we can't find one. Catalogs only show one part, as if you would plug it into a radio. Anybody know where we can find a connector for coaxial cable to connect 2 lenths of cable? (We are unable to get the broken piece out of the old connector cuz it is soldered in, or else we would just reuse it.)
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re new catalog
This catalog doesn't seem to be for marine use. And I could not find anything that looks like what we have.
This catalog doesn't seem to be for marine use. And I could not find anything that looks like what we have.
Re: re new catalog
keep looking if they don't carry it ,it doesn't exist. You will have a hard time convincing me that you looked closely at 4226 coax connectors 25 per page in the short time since I posted the link. You won't find anything labeled "marine" A connector can be used wherever it is suitable. mil-spec connectors probably exceed all recreational marine requirements.
keep looking if they don't carry it ,it doesn't exist. You will have a hard time convincing me that you looked closely at 4226 coax connectors 25 per page in the short time since I posted the link. You won't find anything labeled "marine" A connector can be used wherever it is suitable. mil-spec connectors probably exceed all recreational marine requirements.
Coax connectors for marine use is marketing for more expensive. All decent quality connectors are inherently used in outdoor conditions and I have been using these or their equivalents for 50 years on my tower for ham radio coax connections.
http://www.cablexperts.com/cfdocs/cat.cfm?ItemGroup=15&itmsub=0&bskt=0&USA_ship=1&c=0
Do yourself a favor and also get the coax seal which is superior to any other type of material intended to prevent water impregnating the connector and coax.
You can buy cheaper connectors but given the problems to which these lead, the one time you need to buy them and the pain-in-the-rear end involved in replacement, the saving is a false economy.
http://www.cablexperts.com/cfdocs/cat.cfm?ItemGroup=15&itmsub=0&bskt=0&USA_ship=1&c=0
Do yourself a favor and also get the coax seal which is superior to any other type of material intended to prevent water impregnating the connector and coax.
You can buy cheaper connectors but given the problems to which these lead, the one time you need to buy them and the pain-in-the-rear end involved in replacement, the saving is a false economy.
you need something similar to this:
http://www.thomasdistributingshop.com/Amphenol-PL-258-Double-Barrel-Female-Connector_p_273-1604.html
They do make them with a flange so you can run it through a surface, just didn't search any farther.
Radio shack or similar shop will have them, can also be found at larger truck stops.
Ken.
http://www.thomasdistributingshop.com/Amphenol-PL-258-Double-Barrel-Female-Connector_p_273-1604.html
They do make them with a flange so you can run it through a surface, just didn't search any farther.
Radio shack or similar shop will have them, can also be found at larger truck stops.
Ken.
Thats a tricky one...
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=4051623&Keyword=coax+connectors&FS=True
You might have trouble getting assistance with this one in a forum. There is a major issue of reliability and probable damage to the R/T if this connection is not made properly. A short between the coax core and shielding braid is a very bad thing for the health of the unit. Your ability to properly solder on new connections would require some delicate precision and a decent Volt/Ohm Meter to test the thing before you fired up the radio and key the mike (the last time you will key it if it is done wrong). There are crimp connectors available but those would require the expense of a decent crimp tool (around $90 for a adequate mid-range tool) and you would likely never use it (the tool) again AND, speaking from aircraft avionics experience, I would never crimp a connector that is intended be used in such an electronically unfriendly environment tucked away in a place you cant get to when you are out on the blue. The question would be not if it would eventually fail but when. Your cable that is installed has a stamping printed down the side of the cable at specific intervals that gives the type of wire you have. Use that information to verify the proper family of connectors you require (for instance - RG58, RG58AU, etc. and impedance rating). In that particular location, I would get the best environmentally sealed connector I could buy as it is usually non-serviceable and not even inspectable unless you take down the mast on most sailboats. An exact replacement may not be your best choice since you don't know what the last installer was thinking when it was put in and what you have did break. Get a mating pair suitable for that cable type, power rating (listed in transmit Watts - see the radio data tag for that info) and environment. Don't get tinned contacts - use gold or silver. Bottom line - if you are unsure about your ability to properly solder the thing with the right solder and a 25watt pencil type soldering iron and get the braiding put in its proper place, get the parts and find an experienced radio tech. Do not ever forget what not having that radio may mean in tough spot. If you have questions write me: Icarus90@ymail.com
Here is a site complete with pretty pictures to track down what you have/had:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=4051623&Keyword=coax+connectors&FS=True
You might have trouble getting assistance with this one in a forum. There is a major issue of reliability and probable damage to the R/T if this connection is not made properly. A short between the coax core and shielding braid is a very bad thing for the health of the unit. Your ability to properly solder on new connections would require some delicate precision and a decent Volt/Ohm Meter to test the thing before you fired up the radio and key the mike (the last time you will key it if it is done wrong). There are crimp connectors available but those would require the expense of a decent crimp tool (around $90 for a adequate mid-range tool) and you would likely never use it (the tool) again AND, speaking from aircraft avionics experience, I would never crimp a connector that is intended be used in such an electronically unfriendly environment tucked away in a place you cant get to when you are out on the blue. The question would be not if it would eventually fail but when. Your cable that is installed has a stamping printed down the side of the cable at specific intervals that gives the type of wire you have. Use that information to verify the proper family of connectors you require (for instance - RG58, RG58AU, etc. and impedance rating). In that particular location, I would get the best environmentally sealed connector I could buy as it is usually non-serviceable and not even inspectable unless you take down the mast on most sailboats. An exact replacement may not be your best choice since you don't know what the last installer was thinking when it was put in and what you have did break. Get a mating pair suitable for that cable type, power rating (listed in transmit Watts - see the radio data tag for that info) and environment. Don't get tinned contacts - use gold or silver. Bottom line - if you are unsure about your ability to properly solder the thing with the right solder and a 25watt pencil type soldering iron and get the braiding put in its proper place, get the parts and find an experienced radio tech. Do not ever forget what not having that radio may mean in tough spot. If you have questions write me: Icarus90@ymail.com
He's right. Don't mess around with crappy connectors on your VHF, you'll blow the output transformer. Also, simply crimped fittings will allow water infiltration, that cable gets hot during the day and at night as it cools off, it will literally suck condensate into it like a little capillary.
If it were me....
I'd put a pair of decent crimp on male BNC connectors on each end of the lines. Then a barrell (double female) to mate them. Cover the whole thing with some sealant. The coax seal mentioned before works very well. Or more likely I'd cover the connectors with some grease, or Vaselline. And then some heat shrink over the back end of the each connector, with another other the entire assembly.
Crimp connectors themselves are not inherently bad. When I worked in two way radio we used them everywhere. In police car trunks, under the floor mat of cars (at the drivers feet where it's usually wet). One of the worst places for any connector to survive is in a garbage truck.
Add to that a novice installing a solder on connector generally stands more of a chance of making things worse by melting the center insulator.
I'd put a pair of decent crimp on male BNC connectors on each end of the lines. Then a barrell (double female) to mate them. Cover the whole thing with some sealant. The coax seal mentioned before works very well. Or more likely I'd cover the connectors with some grease, or Vaselline. And then some heat shrink over the back end of the each connector, with another other the entire assembly.
Crimp connectors themselves are not inherently bad. When I worked in two way radio we used them everywhere. In police car trunks, under the floor mat of cars (at the drivers feet where it's usually wet). One of the worst places for any connector to survive is in a garbage truck.
Add to that a novice installing a solder on connector generally stands more of a chance of making things worse by melting the center insulator.
I'm female,clueless and need help.
The coaxial cable is Shakespeare RG 58 B/R B
I have no idea what any of that means.
If I want a good connector for outdoors to connect 2 pieces of coaxial cable, what do I need to buy? I need specifics, not just a web site. I need a web site and item/catalog numbers for specific products - to fit on the 2 pieces of cable and whether or not I need something else to connect the 2 connectors. I prefer not to have to crimp or solder. I've seen screw on types but don't know if that is what I need.
The coaxial cable is Shakespeare RG 58 B/R B
I have no idea what any of that means.
If I want a good connector for outdoors to connect 2 pieces of coaxial cable, what do I need to buy? I need specifics, not just a web site. I need a web site and item/catalog numbers for specific products - to fit on the 2 pieces of cable and whether or not I need something else to connect the 2 connectors. I prefer not to have to crimp or solder. I've seen screw on types but don't know if that is what I need.
I would suggest you consider replacing the cable AND the connectors in the mast and below decks. They're probably bad as well.
If you can remove them you can determine the length and then buy new ones or have them made up. You may need a new deck gland as well.
Even if you have to cut the cables, you can STILL determine the length.
Hopefully you can set up your new cables so the connection is INSIDE the boat where it is not exposed to weather. If not possible but a service loop so the water drains AWAY from the connectors.
If you can remove them you can determine the length and then buy new ones or have them made up. You may need a new deck gland as well.
Even if you have to cut the cables, you can STILL determine the length.
Hopefully you can set up your new cables so the connection is INSIDE the boat where it is not exposed to weather. If not possible but a service loop so the water drains AWAY from the connectors.
Or you could go to a truck stop and they will have all you need..
The RG58 coax is the best around.
The thing you need to connect will be a PL258 UHF Double Female Splice.
I would suggest that you do learn to solder the other connection that fit on the ends of the coax, they are called a PL259 UHF Connector. The connection will be much improved. It is not hard to solder these.
Here is a GREAT site that shows...with photos...how to do it.
http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
Good luck and please let us know how it comes out.
And you might want to register to this site...you get treated better that way!
Jack
The RG58 coax is the best around.
The thing you need to connect will be a PL258 UHF Double Female Splice.
I would suggest that you do learn to solder the other connection that fit on the ends of the coax, they are called a PL259 UHF Connector. The connection will be much improved. It is not hard to solder these.
Here is a GREAT site that shows...with photos...how to do it.
http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
Good luck and please let us know how it comes out.
And you might want to register to this site...you get treated better that way!
Jack
Radio Shack also sells the crimper tool-
the tool is under 20 bucks, and it's just like squeezing a pair of pliers, no expertise needed. The wire is the same size as used for home cable tv. Even a clueless female can do it!
cup
ps- can't you females just bat your lashes and get some dumb man to do it?
the tool is under 20 bucks, and it's just like squeezing a pair of pliers, no expertise needed. The wire is the same size as used for home cable tv. Even a clueless female can do it!
cup
ps- can't you females just bat your lashes and get some dumb man to do it?
Because coax contains a dielectric foam or PE core, it cannot be handled in the same way one would install connectors on solid cable. In addition, deforming the core dielectric changes the impedance and finally, crimp connections will almost always be more prone to leak. When one considers the potential power loss and the aforementioned issues, there is absolutely no good reason to crimp coax connectors.
Elsewhere in the archives a table of inherent loss of various type coax cables can be found. For a typical 100 ft length of coax, the loss for RG8 and RG213 is substantially less than that of RG58 and particularly compared with the crap sold by RadioShack which sells cable with marginal braid.
In answer to the question "what do I need to buy? I need specifics, not just a web site",
you need two PL259 silver plated connectors and a double female barrel connector, some rosin core solder and a 100 w soldering iron (anything smaller will only serve to melt the dielectric core).
Elsewhere in the archives a table of inherent loss of various type coax cables can be found. For a typical 100 ft length of coax, the loss for RG8 and RG213 is substantially less than that of RG58 and particularly compared with the crap sold by RadioShack which sells cable with marginal braid.
In answer to the question "what do I need to buy? I need specifics, not just a web site",
you need two PL259 silver plated connectors and a double female barrel connector, some rosin core solder and a 100 w soldering iron (anything smaller will only serve to melt the dielectric core).
My Experience with Deck mounted VHF Connectors
Hi Guest,
My last boat had a deck mounted PL259 bulkhead fitting screwed to the deck at the foot of the mast.
This is the silver plated 'correct' one sold specifically for the purpose. It also had a rubber 'boot' to protect it and keep the water out.
The rubber perished after a few years.
All was well for about 5 years then my VHF stopped working.
I examined the cable and the free plug connected to the masthead and discovered the outer braid completely corroded away. I began cutting back the outer pvc cable jacket and found that the seawater had wicked upwards inside the pvc for about 5 feet up the mast before I came to clean silver plated copper braid. This turned the job from a simple reconnection job to a major mast cable change - possibly requiring the mast to be unstepped - you know yard fees, crane and all.
So I cut off the bad bit of cable and spliced on a longer length of 50 ohm co-ax (not TV downlead which is 75 ohms). The inner conductors were soldered together and then wrapped with self-amalgamating tape. The outer braids were each made into a pigtail about 1" long and soldered and the whole joint wrapped with more self-amalgam. Amazing how a breeze cools a soldering iron!
Then the taped up connection was buried back into the recess inside the sail luff groove where it had previously been.
Next I removed the deck fitting and passed the cable right through using a waterproof gland and made the connection to the VHF set inside the boat in the headlinings. I used two sections of a 'chocolate strip' connector and this can easily be remade at any time afloat or ashore. Again all protected with self-amalgam tape.
I tested the whole cable and aerial using my VSWR meter and it checked out okay and remained so till I sold the boat 17 years later.
No real need for coaxial connections here so long as the disruption to the coaxial nature of the cable is very short compared to the wavelength of the signal. The wavelength of the VHF signal in polythene coax is over one metre (40") so a joint only 1 1/2" long has very little effect.
I guess the moral of my story is to extend the cable a foot, use a deck gland, use a screw type choc strip connector below decks (easy to undo when unstepping the mast) and cease worrying about the aerial cable for the rest of your life!
If you feel intimidated by all this any competent electrician could do it.
VHF radios are most peoples' main means of communication for Maydays so you need a reliable cable.
Hi Guest,
My last boat had a deck mounted PL259 bulkhead fitting screwed to the deck at the foot of the mast.
This is the silver plated 'correct' one sold specifically for the purpose. It also had a rubber 'boot' to protect it and keep the water out.
The rubber perished after a few years.
All was well for about 5 years then my VHF stopped working.
I examined the cable and the free plug connected to the masthead and discovered the outer braid completely corroded away. I began cutting back the outer pvc cable jacket and found that the seawater had wicked upwards inside the pvc for about 5 feet up the mast before I came to clean silver plated copper braid. This turned the job from a simple reconnection job to a major mast cable change - possibly requiring the mast to be unstepped - you know yard fees, crane and all.
So I cut off the bad bit of cable and spliced on a longer length of 50 ohm co-ax (not TV downlead which is 75 ohms). The inner conductors were soldered together and then wrapped with self-amalgamating tape. The outer braids were each made into a pigtail about 1" long and soldered and the whole joint wrapped with more self-amalgam. Amazing how a breeze cools a soldering iron!
Then the taped up connection was buried back into the recess inside the sail luff groove where it had previously been.
Next I removed the deck fitting and passed the cable right through using a waterproof gland and made the connection to the VHF set inside the boat in the headlinings. I used two sections of a 'chocolate strip' connector and this can easily be remade at any time afloat or ashore. Again all protected with self-amalgam tape.
I tested the whole cable and aerial using my VSWR meter and it checked out okay and remained so till I sold the boat 17 years later.
No real need for coaxial connections here so long as the disruption to the coaxial nature of the cable is very short compared to the wavelength of the signal. The wavelength of the VHF signal in polythene coax is over one metre (40") so a joint only 1 1/2" long has very little effect.
I guess the moral of my story is to extend the cable a foot, use a deck gland, use a screw type choc strip connector below decks (easy to undo when unstepping the mast) and cease worrying about the aerial cable for the rest of your life!
If you feel intimidated by all this any competent electrician could do it.
VHF radios are most peoples' main means of communication for Maydays so you need a reliable cable.
Do not do not do not crimp it on.
Do not do not do not use a screw on fitting.
Do not do not do not use TV cable, it must be RG-58.
Do not do not do not count on RadioShack to know what they are talking about. Some of their folks are good at this, unfortunately, most are not.
DO watch the video mentioned above. (Consider using heat-shrink tubing instead of electrical tape for the outer jacket, though.)
DO seal it.
DO put a loop below the fittings so the water drips off the bottom of the loop.
DO consider replacing the whole cable instead.
Do not do not do not use a screw on fitting.
Do not do not do not use TV cable, it must be RG-58.
Do not do not do not count on RadioShack to know what they are talking about. Some of their folks are good at this, unfortunately, most are not.
DO watch the video mentioned above. (Consider using heat-shrink tubing instead of electrical tape for the outer jacket, though.)
DO seal it.
DO put a loop below the fittings so the water drips off the bottom of the loop.
DO consider replacing the whole cable instead.
Ross........ a little compassion please.
That said, our "guest" really didn't look that hard... so I don't blame you for being a little testy. If he had simply gone to the West marine catalouge he'd have found a paltry 15 selelctions under coaxial connectors, of which there are three that could solve his problem.
Your catalogue link is very intimidating, especially for someone who doesn't possess the extensive knowledge you have. Too many choices...... so little time, eh. Anyway, perhaps a page reference may have encouraged him, but of course that would take up a lot of your time, instead of his.
That said, our "guest" really didn't look that hard... so I don't blame you for being a little testy. If he had simply gone to the West marine catalouge he'd have found a paltry 15 selelctions under coaxial connectors, of which there are three that could solve his problem.
lSee attached chart - do not use RG58. The loss is double that of good quality Rg213.
http://www.rffun.com/catalog/cable/coaxperf.html
http://www.rffun.com/catalog/cable/coaxperf.html
Good call, Don. The argument was mostly not to use TV cable. (-: Wrong impedance will give you a bad day.
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