I just bought in the last 24 hours a Walker Bay Boat with side inflating tubes in the 8 foot model, which becomes the 9 foot model with the inflatable tube. I know the manufactures site says the little boat can take up to a 4 hp motor which I was planning on adding. However reading reviews of this boat at their site suggested one problem with the 4 hp is that with the weight of it, plus only one person in the boat, the dingy was heavy in the stern. Looking at their HP performance chart I noticed there wasn't much performance difference between a 3 hp and a 4 hp. I was wondering if it would be more worthwhile getting the Merc 3.3 since it weighed less and wouldn't pull down as much on the transom, with only one person in the boat (the second person helps trim the boat while under power). What motors have you used on your Walker Bay 8 boat and are you happy with its performance?
Walker Bay boat - 8 foot RID - HP recommendation
- Thread starter rsn48
- Start date
- Status
1.2hp
we have a WB8 without the float. We have been rowing it but decided to register it and add a little sears 1.2 that we had used on a canoe. Without the floats the WB is tippy and we have had a couple of waves come aboard. The little sears only weighs 13#s. With a loaded boat I don't think that you will want to go very fast. Tom
we have a WB8 without the float. We have been rowing it but decided to register it and add a little sears 1.2 that we had used on a canoe. Without the floats the WB is tippy and we have had a couple of waves come aboard. The little sears only weighs 13#s. With a loaded boat I don't think that you will want to go very fast. Tom
For the one person who may look WB boats in future
Since I had an under whelming response to this thread; after research, I thought I'd post what I discovered. Perhaps I can save another lost soul some time if they happen upon this topic as they purchase a WB dingy. I originally wanted a four stroke 4 HP motor so that I wouldn't have to carry dual fuel on board. I had just bought an 8 foot WB dingy with the inflatable tube around it, increasing its horse power to 4 hp. I've always loved Merc motors so I thought I would get a Merc outboard, probably the 4. After research, I discovered the 4 and 5 and 6 hp outboard all weighed the same - 55 pounds. As you can imagine, I thought if they weigh the same, why not get the 6 hp. One outboard motor dealership was trying to convince me that the little dingy could plane with a 6 hp. As you can imagine, this appalled to me so I thought this is what I was going to purchase. I was nervous however about over powering the little dingy. I talked to a number of people and no one really seemed to be in the know. In the end, I decided to call Walker Bay Boats since they are a local company here in Vancouver, BC. The answer I received was this: if I purchased the 6 hp I could be subject to a fine from the coast guard since the dingy was only rated for a 4 hp. If I put a 6 hp on, with the dingy having no trim pads, the bow of the dingy would significantly raise above the water, not a good situation in a wind. The boat wouldn't plane regardless of having the 6 hp on it. In fact, WB Boats recommended a 3.3 over the 4 hp motor. So this is what I bought. I liked the fact that the 3.3 was only 29 pounds versus 55 pounds of the 4, 5 , and 6 hp. There are two negatives with the 3.3. First it doesn't have to reverse; you have to swing the motor around to obtain reverse. Secondly, I now will have to carry dual fuel.
Since I had an under whelming response to this thread; after research, I thought I'd post what I discovered. Perhaps I can save another lost soul some time if they happen upon this topic as they purchase a WB dingy. I originally wanted a four stroke 4 HP motor so that I wouldn't have to carry dual fuel on board. I had just bought an 8 foot WB dingy with the inflatable tube around it, increasing its horse power to 4 hp. I've always loved Merc motors so I thought I would get a Merc outboard, probably the 4. After research, I discovered the 4 and 5 and 6 hp outboard all weighed the same - 55 pounds. As you can imagine, I thought if they weigh the same, why not get the 6 hp. One outboard motor dealership was trying to convince me that the little dingy could plane with a 6 hp. As you can imagine, this appalled to me so I thought this is what I was going to purchase. I was nervous however about over powering the little dingy. I talked to a number of people and no one really seemed to be in the know. In the end, I decided to call Walker Bay Boats since they are a local company here in Vancouver, BC. The answer I received was this: if I purchased the 6 hp I could be subject to a fine from the coast guard since the dingy was only rated for a 4 hp. If I put a 6 hp on, with the dingy having no trim pads, the bow of the dingy would significantly raise above the water, not a good situation in a wind. The boat wouldn't plane regardless of having the 6 hp on it. In fact, WB Boats recommended a 3.3 over the 4 hp motor. So this is what I bought. I liked the fact that the 3.3 was only 29 pounds versus 55 pounds of the 4, 5 , and 6 hp. There are two negatives with the 3.3. First it doesn't have to reverse; you have to swing the motor around to obtain reverse. Secondly, I now will have to carry dual fuel.
In both Vancouver and Washington
I just did a copy and paste off of Walker Bay boats "Contact Us" page. Walker Bay boats is based in Vancouver, however production is in Washington state. Here is the copy and paste: Contact Us North American Customer Service Phone: 1.888.44Walker (449-2553) 604-682-5699 Fax: 1.888.228.7222 604.683.1877 Email: info@walkerbay.com Address: Walker Bay Boats, Inc. 607 West Ahtanum Road, Union Gap, Washington 98903 You will notice the area code of 604 (from then number 604 683-1877), which is the Vancouver BC area and what you would use to call me. A number of companies have headquarters in the greater Vancouver area with locations in the state of Washington for construction, etc. There are a number of reasons for this, all financial. However, the one benefit is that for some Americans who "buy American!" will still purchase the product.
I just did a copy and paste off of Walker Bay boats "Contact Us" page. Walker Bay boats is based in Vancouver, however production is in Washington state. Here is the copy and paste: Contact Us North American Customer Service Phone: 1.888.44Walker (449-2553) 604-682-5699 Fax: 1.888.228.7222 604.683.1877 Email: info@walkerbay.com Address: Walker Bay Boats, Inc. 607 West Ahtanum Road, Union Gap, Washington 98903 You will notice the area code of 604 (from then number 604 683-1877), which is the Vancouver BC area and what you would use to call me. A number of companies have headquarters in the greater Vancouver area with locations in the state of Washington for construction, etc. There are a number of reasons for this, all financial. However, the one benefit is that for some Americans who "buy American!" will still purchase the product.
Weight is an issue with this boat
RSN, I bought a used WB 8 recently for a dinghy and found it to be extremely unstable. One person with no cargo must sit in the dead center and 2 people must balance off their weight by sitting bow and stern. I can't imagine being able to safely use it with a motor and its operator at the stern and no cargo up front. The inflatable tubes are not an option, they're a necessity with this boat, but just the same use the smallest, lightest motor possible with it. The WB has beautiful classic lines but I see now the flaw in the concept of a ultralight traditional rowboat: in wooden rowboats the weight of the material stabilized the boat. With little mass, a different hull shape is called for and I'm wondering what that should be...
RSN, I bought a used WB 8 recently for a dinghy and found it to be extremely unstable. One person with no cargo must sit in the dead center and 2 people must balance off their weight by sitting bow and stern. I can't imagine being able to safely use it with a motor and its operator at the stern and no cargo up front. The inflatable tubes are not an option, they're a necessity with this boat, but just the same use the smallest, lightest motor possible with it. The WB has beautiful classic lines but I see now the flaw in the concept of a ultralight traditional rowboat: in wooden rowboats the weight of the material stabilized the boat. With little mass, a different hull shape is called for and I'm wondering what that should be...
I have one of these
I have the same issue with two people aboard. We put our three small dogs (approx. 20 lbs total) in the bow and it makes a bit of diff. We also put whatever cargo we have in the bow. I plan on adding a second pair of oarlock sockets further forward and making a fore and aft seat between the midship seat and the bow seat. I would then sit on the fore and aft seat and row with my wife on the stern seat. I am going to try it with just a board and see what kind of difference it will make.
I have the same issue with two people aboard. We put our three small dogs (approx. 20 lbs total) in the bow and it makes a bit of diff. We also put whatever cargo we have in the bow. I plan on adding a second pair of oarlock sockets further forward and making a fore and aft seat between the midship seat and the bow seat. I would then sit on the fore and aft seat and row with my wife on the stern seat. I am going to try it with just a board and see what kind of difference it will make.
You just use a tiller extension with motor
The company recommends (strongly recommends) that you use a tiller extension with the motor for weight stability in the boat. And I am.... uh... ah... a tad overweight so it is important that I not run the motor with me in the stern. I am not surprised you say the boat is "tippy." I will digress to canoes for a moment. I owned a "Jensen" designed canoe that is famous for being fast. Its speed comes from a rounded bottom, then flaring outward. Canoes with this design are considered more stable that a canoe with a flatter bottom, less rounded. To a newbie's feel, the second canoe with a flatter bottom feels more stable and they will prefer it; this stability is called "primary stability." Secondary stability is achieved with the canoe flaring out wards from the water line up - the free board. When the canoe goes to tip, the flaring slows the tipping down, even though the initial feel of the canoe is tippy. With the flat bottomed canoe, once it starts to go over, it goes over - poorer secondary stability. The Walker Bay Boats have a somewhat similar design to a canoe that is of the "Jensen" ilk; poorer primary stability (hence "tippy") but better secondary stability. I know it seems to make no sense that a "tippy" canoe has better ultimate stability than a non-tippy canoe, but that's the case. So entering and exiting the WB boat will be much the same as entering and exiting a canoe with much the same sensitivities as a canoe. But a canoe doesn't have the tube around it, so the canoe is even more sensitive to weight shifts.
The company recommends (strongly recommends) that you use a tiller extension with the motor for weight stability in the boat. And I am.... uh... ah... a tad overweight so it is important that I not run the motor with me in the stern. I am not surprised you say the boat is "tippy." I will digress to canoes for a moment. I owned a "Jensen" designed canoe that is famous for being fast. Its speed comes from a rounded bottom, then flaring outward. Canoes with this design are considered more stable that a canoe with a flatter bottom, less rounded. To a newbie's feel, the second canoe with a flatter bottom feels more stable and they will prefer it; this stability is called "primary stability." Secondary stability is achieved with the canoe flaring out wards from the water line up - the free board. When the canoe goes to tip, the flaring slows the tipping down, even though the initial feel of the canoe is tippy. With the flat bottomed canoe, once it starts to go over, it goes over - poorer secondary stability. The Walker Bay Boats have a somewhat similar design to a canoe that is of the "Jensen" ilk; poorer primary stability (hence "tippy") but better secondary stability. I know it seems to make no sense that a "tippy" canoe has better ultimate stability than a non-tippy canoe, but that's the case. So entering and exiting the WB boat will be much the same as entering and exiting a canoe with much the same sensitivities as a canoe. But a canoe doesn't have the tube around it, so the canoe is even more sensitive to weight shifts.
- Status