I just purchased a 2002 Hunter 290 and am trying to learn my way around the electrical system. Can someone tell me how I can judge the charge of the two batteries ? What is the purpose of the AC Power voltmeter on the electrical power panel..never seems to register anything when I am plugged into shore power yet batteries are charged. The archives have a bewildering array of battery switch issues, wiring etc, but at this point I am only interested in basics, e.g, how do I know batteries are charged, when is AC voltmeter supposed to register and what switches do you leave on when connected to shore power ?
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Gregg
290 power
I have a 2000 290, and I use 2 batteries - a starting battery (#1), and a deep cycle house battery (#2). The simple way, although not foolproof, is to start the engine on #1, then switch to 'Both' to charge both batteries. I find that when I switch to 'Both', there is a decrease in engine RPM until the more discharged battery (#2) is charged up by the alternator. With the engine off, switch to #2 to run DC loads. Like I said, simple but not foolproof, and you've seen how many articles there are on DC power and charging systems. Go to Home Depot or Radio Shack and buy yourself an inexpensive multi-meter. One of the most useful things you can have on the boat. Check your battery(ies) voltage before starting the engine - they should be around 12 volts. Start the engine and check again - voltage should rise to approximately 13.8 volts - you then know the alternator is charging them. Check your boat (and paperwork) for an AC powered battery charger. You probably have one - mine is under the starboard settee where the batteries are. A so-called smart charger (unlike me), it charges in 3 decreasing stages, the last being a float charge to keep the batteries topped off. *Be sure* to check the schematic in the Hunter manual for the battery switch - it tells you which wire you must move and to what terminal in order to charge both batteries from the charger. Check the output of the charger with your multi-meter. Should also be about 13.8 volts. Of course, to use this charger, you have to have shore power coming in. This one drove me crazy the first time I tried to use it. Tried several outlets on the dock, thinking they were all dead (*note - pre multi-meter days). Got out the manual, and after I finally figured out what the heck a 'Euro' locker was (starboard corner cockpit locker), and looked not once but three times, I finally found the shore power *main breaker* tucked way up inside this locker (helps to stand on your head). The previous owner never used shore power. Flipped on the main breaker, then turned on the 'AC' breaker on the power panel (again), and presto - the AC meter finally read the incoming shore power voltage - you should see 110 - 120 volts registered on this meter. As far as leaving switches on, my boat is on a mooring. But when we go away and get a slip, I leave the AC (power panel), water heater, outlets, and battery charger switches on when on the boat, and shut everything off when we leave the boat. (No A/C or refrigerator on board.) Hope this long winded reply makes some sense. I'm sure there will be a lot of helpful info posted here on this topic.
I have a 2000 290, and I use 2 batteries - a starting battery (#1), and a deep cycle house battery (#2). The simple way, although not foolproof, is to start the engine on #1, then switch to 'Both' to charge both batteries. I find that when I switch to 'Both', there is a decrease in engine RPM until the more discharged battery (#2) is charged up by the alternator. With the engine off, switch to #2 to run DC loads. Like I said, simple but not foolproof, and you've seen how many articles there are on DC power and charging systems. Go to Home Depot or Radio Shack and buy yourself an inexpensive multi-meter. One of the most useful things you can have on the boat. Check your battery(ies) voltage before starting the engine - they should be around 12 volts. Start the engine and check again - voltage should rise to approximately 13.8 volts - you then know the alternator is charging them. Check your boat (and paperwork) for an AC powered battery charger. You probably have one - mine is under the starboard settee where the batteries are. A so-called smart charger (unlike me), it charges in 3 decreasing stages, the last being a float charge to keep the batteries topped off. *Be sure* to check the schematic in the Hunter manual for the battery switch - it tells you which wire you must move and to what terminal in order to charge both batteries from the charger. Check the output of the charger with your multi-meter. Should also be about 13.8 volts. Of course, to use this charger, you have to have shore power coming in. This one drove me crazy the first time I tried to use it. Tried several outlets on the dock, thinking they were all dead (*note - pre multi-meter days). Got out the manual, and after I finally figured out what the heck a 'Euro' locker was (starboard corner cockpit locker), and looked not once but three times, I finally found the shore power *main breaker* tucked way up inside this locker (helps to stand on your head). The previous owner never used shore power. Flipped on the main breaker, then turned on the 'AC' breaker on the power panel (again), and presto - the AC meter finally read the incoming shore power voltage - you should see 110 - 120 volts registered on this meter. As far as leaving switches on, my boat is on a mooring. But when we go away and get a slip, I leave the AC (power panel), water heater, outlets, and battery charger switches on when on the boat, and shut everything off when we leave the boat. (No A/C or refrigerator on board.) Hope this long winded reply makes some sense. I'm sure there will be a lot of helpful info posted here on this topic.
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rock2tank
ac power
Gregg, Thanks for the thorough, quick and very useful help. I understand, makes good sense and the advice will save me many hours of experimentation. I will get a multimeter tomorrow !
Gregg, Thanks for the thorough, quick and very useful help. I understand, makes good sense and the advice will save me many hours of experimentation. I will get a multimeter tomorrow !
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Gregg
Let us know
how you make out. Especially with the shore power. That hidden main breaker drove me nuts!
how you make out. Especially with the shore power. That hidden main breaker drove me nuts!
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doug
Battery switch
Battery switch must be in the "ON" position when recharging batteries from shore power. In other words, your boat draws power from the batteries for lights refridge etc. and the battery charger recharges batteries form shore poewer. Discovered this little problem when I ran appliances with Battery switch in off position one night at the dock!
Battery switch must be in the "ON" position when recharging batteries from shore power. In other words, your boat draws power from the batteries for lights refridge etc. and the battery charger recharges batteries form shore poewer. Discovered this little problem when I ran appliances with Battery switch in off position one night at the dock!
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nick maggio
battery meter
I found a 12 volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter plug at the nav station and it works great,I leave it in all the time and it tells me what the alternator is chargeing and what the amount of volts are in the batteries. I found this meter in a rv store for about $13.00 it can be used in anything that has a lighter plug. My 2001 290 has vhf ref, atuo pilot,gps/chartplotter/radar,knot,dept,am,fm,cd I added two grp 29hm batteries for house and one 27hm starter battery . The start battery is charged by a combiner from the house batteries and the alternator charges the house bank only. I will be installing a link 20 soon and I just returned from a three day weekend trip with no battery problems.
I found a 12 volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter plug at the nav station and it works great,I leave it in all the time and it tells me what the alternator is chargeing and what the amount of volts are in the batteries. I found this meter in a rv store for about $13.00 it can be used in anything that has a lighter plug. My 2001 290 has vhf ref, atuo pilot,gps/chartplotter/radar,knot,dept,am,fm,cd I added two grp 29hm batteries for house and one 27hm starter battery . The start battery is charged by a combiner from the house batteries and the alternator charges the house bank only. I will be installing a link 20 soon and I just returned from a three day weekend trip with no battery problems.
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rock2tank
hidden main breaker
Gregg, I found the hidden main breaker for shore power after standing on my head as you prescribed...it worked !! Voltmeter registers and problem solved. Thanks again--even learned about my Euro locker.
Gregg, I found the hidden main breaker for shore power after standing on my head as you prescribed...it worked !! Voltmeter registers and problem solved. Thanks again--even learned about my Euro locker.
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Gregg
Rock.....
Glad it worked out for you. Don't know why they hide it all the way up in there. Just found out I'll be doing a business trip to Van Nuys next month. The boss says Oxnard is a great place for sailboats. Looking forward to seeing the Pacific.
Glad it worked out for you. Don't know why they hide it all the way up in there. Just found out I'll be doing a business trip to Van Nuys next month. The boss says Oxnard is a great place for sailboats. Looking forward to seeing the Pacific.
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Fred Ruggiero
Voltage vs Amps
Your a/c is not battery current it is the shore power that feeds your boat. A volt meter can be anywhere in the D/C circuit and will tell you the voltage (pressure) in the D/C electrical system. An amp meter tells the amount of current (amps) coming from the alternator. For an amp meter to do this it MUST interupt (be in series with) the alt output wire. Because the amp meter has all the current flowing through it the wires must be of the same size as the existing. IF YOU LOCATE THE AMP METER FAF FROM THE ALT USE A LARGER GAUGE WIRE.
Your a/c is not battery current it is the shore power that feeds your boat. A volt meter can be anywhere in the D/C circuit and will tell you the voltage (pressure) in the D/C electrical system. An amp meter tells the amount of current (amps) coming from the alternator. For an amp meter to do this it MUST interupt (be in series with) the alt output wire. Because the amp meter has all the current flowing through it the wires must be of the same size as the existing. IF YOU LOCATE THE AMP METER FAF FROM THE ALT USE A LARGER GAUGE WIRE.
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Ray
voltemeter AC/DC
The Amp meter is energized by the field effect from a coil around either a DC + wire or the Hot leg off the AC input. Unless you have a coil installed 360 degrees around the wire you can't measure AMPS. The very best universal volt amp meter for the price (around 100$) can be found in the Sears catalog. It measures voltage to 600v(ACDC), amps to 600 A(ACDC), and ohms. It is digital also and very safe and easy to use. VERY HANDY ON THE BOAT. You can determine the condition of all your boat's electrical components very accurately. You can get more expensive ones too--but I like this one. Product Detail Craftsman True RMS Clamp Meter $99.99 Sears Item #03482014000 Mfr. Model #82014 Features Description Product Overview: Multi-Meter, Multi-Tester Accessory Multi-meter Portability Portable Power Option Powered Item Weight 2.3 lbs. General Features: Electronic Type Tester Tester: Tester Class Multitester AC Current Yes Amps Yes Short-Open Circuit Yes Continuity Yes DC Current Yes Open Circuits Yes Resistance Yes Volts Yes Wiring Yes Controls, Display: Type Yes Controls, Feedback: Analog Or Bar Graph Analog Cord: Cord Option Cordless Included with Item: Case Yes Req. Fuses Yes Craftsman Professional Auto Ranging Clamp-on Meter features True RMS. Gives accurate measurements of distorted AC wave forms.
The Amp meter is energized by the field effect from a coil around either a DC + wire or the Hot leg off the AC input. Unless you have a coil installed 360 degrees around the wire you can't measure AMPS. The very best universal volt amp meter for the price (around 100$) can be found in the Sears catalog. It measures voltage to 600v(ACDC), amps to 600 A(ACDC), and ohms. It is digital also and very safe and easy to use. VERY HANDY ON THE BOAT. You can determine the condition of all your boat's electrical components very accurately. You can get more expensive ones too--but I like this one. Product Detail Craftsman True RMS Clamp Meter $99.99 Sears Item #03482014000 Mfr. Model #82014 Features Description Product Overview: Multi-Meter, Multi-Tester Accessory Multi-meter Portability Portable Power Option Powered Item Weight 2.3 lbs. General Features: Electronic Type Tester Tester: Tester Class Multitester AC Current Yes Amps Yes Short-Open Circuit Yes Continuity Yes DC Current Yes Open Circuits Yes Resistance Yes Volts Yes Wiring Yes Controls, Display: Type Yes Controls, Feedback: Analog Or Bar Graph Analog Cord: Cord Option Cordless Included with Item: Case Yes Req. Fuses Yes Craftsman Professional Auto Ranging Clamp-on Meter features True RMS. Gives accurate measurements of distorted AC wave forms.
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Ray
power question
In order to best protect the boat's electrical system they usually put the main AC breaker as close to the shorepower connection point as possible. Most of the boats I have had were set up this way.
In order to best protect the boat's electrical system they usually put the main AC breaker as close to the shorepower connection point as possible. Most of the boats I have had were set up this way.
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