Voltage Regulator & Batteries

W

William

.
Oct 25, 2015
14
west wight potter p 19 long island ny
I have the MD6A with a Delco auto regulator. but intend to install a multi-stage regulator this Winter. I want to put two group 27 Concorde batteries in the deep end of the bilge and one group 24 to rear of the engine.
Can anyone tell me if I should hook the new regulator to the Dynastart or bypass it and go directly to the alternator?
Larry

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
B

bobnlesafloat

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Oct 31, 2019
163
NOT to the Dynostart - On more than one occassion, I've been advised that if you have a battery of larger than about 65 amp/hour connected to a Dynastart and allow it to get very flat, you run a serious risk of overheating and thereby damaging the Dynastart when you re-charge it. I'm not sure as to the reasoning behind this, but I've a lot of respect for the advice of at least two of those people who so advised me.

Spring Fever has a 65ish watt alternator fitted (from a VW Car) rather than the standard/original 35 watt jobby, along with a Sterling smart-alternator; this set up copes admirably with our battery bank of 1 x 55 amp/hr starter and 2 x 90 amp/hr house batteries. Even at the height of a Mediteranean summer, 2 x 30 minutes/day wil keep us powered up and the beer cold.

Bob Carlisle
Spring Fever 1776
 
P

pelagicasd

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Jan 28, 2001
694
Don't think putting the batteries in the deep end of the bilge is a good plan. If water starts coming in you could lose your ability to pump it out with electric pumps. Putting the starting battery behind the engine will make it difficult to get to. Leaving them in the space below the cabin sole is also probably not the best plan. I used to think about what would happen if I was sitting on the overhead with the mast pointing at the sand and the keel at the stars. Glassed in some shelves and boxes in the cockpit lockers just behind the aft cabin bulkhead. Batterries are easy to get to and the weight is fairly well distributed. Walt

To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: bobnlesafloat@...: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 15:59:04 +0000Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Voltage Regulator & Batteries
NOT to the Dynostart - On more than one occassion, I've been advised that if you have a battery of larger than about 65 amp/hour connected to a Dynastart and allow it to get very flat, you run a serious risk of overheating and thereby damaging the Dynastart when you re-charge it. I'm not sure as to the reasoning behind this, but I've a lot of respect for the advice of at least two of those people who so advised me. Spring Fever has a 65ish watt alternator fitted (from a VW Car) rather than the standard/original 35 watt jobby, along with a Sterling smart-alternator; this set up copes admirably with our battery bank of 1 x 55 amp/hr starter and 2 x 90 amp/hr house batteries. Even at the height of a Mediteranean summer, 2 x 30 minutes/day wil keep us powered up and the beer cold. Bob CarlisleSpring Fever 1776
 
J

j.hunter9999

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Oct 30, 2019
574
Some great answers. Thanks a heap! My only concern with Gel Cels is that I heard they
can be tempermental to charge? Are there any special considerations when using Gel Cels
vs AGMs or flooded?

JH
 
B

bobnlesafloat

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Oct 31, 2019
163
If you install gel or sealed batteries rather than a traditional lead-acid one, you cannot charge at as high a maximum voltage (say 14.4V rather than 14.8V) Whilst this doesn't sound a lot of difference, the reality is that it takes perhaps 50% longer to re-charge from a similar discharge state, whilst that's not a major issue in your car or even a motor/power boat; on a yacht it can mean an extra 1/2 hour/day with the motor running just to provide the amps.

I've also read Walt's advice about battery location - we have our two 'house' batteries in the space below the cabin sole - I extended it to overhang the main bilge by 6" so they'd fit; I think that these batteries would be hard pressed to fall out even in a roll-over scenario though having said that, we do have strong-back bars fitted with which to secure the sole boards in place when offshore. Our starting battery is in the engine bay (sorry Walt) too and I find access is fine as being the starter only battery, it only needs a top-uo once a year.

Bob
Spring Fever 1776
 
T

trevy_kins

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Oct 31, 2019
230
Hey JH, check out these websites for answers to many basic
battery-related questions:



Seamless Marine Electronics Solutions

marine-electronics.net marine-electronics.net

www.windsun.com

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

The subject of batteries could take up many pages. All we have room for here is a basic overview of batteries commonly used in photovoltaic power systems. These are nearly all various variations of Lead-Acid batteries. For a very brief discussion on the ad
www.windsun.com www.windsun.com



Trev (V2915)

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of j.hunter9999
Sent: November 5, 2008 9:19 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Voltage Regulator & Batteries



Some great answers. Thanks a heap! My only concern with Gel Cels is that
I heard they
can be tempermental to charge? Are there any special considerations when
using Gel Cels
vs AGMs or flooded?

JH
 
J

j.hunter9999

.
Oct 30, 2019
574
This is all great input and i think may have sparked a bit of philosophical debate. I'm
going to leave the batteries in the bilge. Since I'm removing the fuel tank, I intend to glass
in an extension. I'm also not concerned about holding the batteries in place. I have
designed a strap system to keep them from moving in the event of a rollover or turtling.
I'm actually more concerned about the bilge covers, which I haven't modified yet.

Excellent links. I'll finish reading them on my upcoming road trip.

Thanks again,
JH
 
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