This forum is great, thanks to all for your input. Big question. 1981 H-30. When I purchased this boat I reviewed all paper work, (all invoices, sales slip, kept by the two previous owners. I noticed that in the last few years the batteries were replaced almost yearly. After I purchased the boat, which had new AGM (2) batteries, I noticed I could not keep them charged. After about 2 weeks, the batteries would continue to lose voltage. I could stop the lost voltage by disconnecting the ground to the engine. Today, we found that there is a 50 MA drain from the alternator outlet lead to ground! The boat has a Zap-Stop attachment on the alternator and it also has a battery isolator. When the alternator lead is disconnected at the isolator, the voltage leak stops. Any Ideas?
Voltage leak
- Thread starter Danny4719
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Gary
Bad alternator!
It sounds like you know the problem! The alternator should not do that. The diode pack or the regulator inside is probably bad. You should probably be able to take it off and take it to an automotive electrical shop. They could re-build it. I have had this problem in cars before. BTW, its a CURRENT leak not a voltage leak (I'm an anal Engineer!). Gary
It sounds like you know the problem! The alternator should not do that. The diode pack or the regulator inside is probably bad. You should probably be able to take it off and take it to an automotive electrical shop. They could re-build it. I have had this problem in cars before. BTW, its a CURRENT leak not a voltage leak (I'm an anal Engineer!). Gary
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Dan Jonas
Interesting
This is an interesting conversation. I have a Link 2000 that is registering a .2 amp discharge rate with everything off except the battery charger, which is in float. The Link accumulates negative amp hours over a period of time from this, even though all indications are that the battery is fully charged. This occurs on Battery #1. #2 seems fine. I do have a Pathmaker Combiner that must draw a little amperage, but why would it be a negative accumulation while in float. This problem is actually driving me a little nuts. Any ideas? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
This is an interesting conversation. I have a Link 2000 that is registering a .2 amp discharge rate with everything off except the battery charger, which is in float. The Link accumulates negative amp hours over a period of time from this, even though all indications are that the battery is fully charged. This occurs on Battery #1. #2 seems fine. I do have a Pathmaker Combiner that must draw a little amperage, but why would it be a negative accumulation while in float. This problem is actually driving me a little nuts. Any ideas? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
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Reudi Ross
Dan,
I have a link 10 and noticed the same. I read the manual carefully and it states that the link will draw about 170ma when active(the LED display is lit) when it goes in power save mode it draws about 25ma. That is your .2a discharge. I confirmed this with a fluke DMM. Without knowing the specifics of how your combiner/charger system is wired, I can't answer why #1 battery is discharging and #2 is not. Since I store my boat on the hard, I just turn off the batteries when not in use but the continuous draw is an issue if you don't keep your batteries on a charger all the time.
I have a link 10 and noticed the same. I read the manual carefully and it states that the link will draw about 170ma when active(the LED display is lit) when it goes in power save mode it draws about 25ma. That is your .2a discharge. I confirmed this with a fluke DMM. Without knowing the specifics of how your combiner/charger system is wired, I can't answer why #1 battery is discharging and #2 is not. Since I store my boat on the hard, I just turn off the batteries when not in use but the continuous draw is an issue if you don't keep your batteries on a charger all the time.
Fluke DMM?
Reudi, Not sure what a Fluke DMM is. But beyond that, if the .2 amp discharge is the link itself, why is the charger not putting out enough to cover this discharge. This occurs with the charger on in float mode. It seems that even in float, the charger should be covering a .2 amp load. Dan Jonas
Reudi, Not sure what a Fluke DMM is. But beyond that, if the .2 amp discharge is the link itself, why is the charger not putting out enough to cover this discharge. This occurs with the charger on in float mode. It seems that even in float, the charger should be covering a .2 amp load. Dan Jonas
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Gary
Sorry
Danny, sorry, 50ma is not that much, I shouldn't post while sleepy! What you should do it measure the current directly at the battery (remove cable and insert meter). Reudi, 25ma is 0.025amps, again not much. Dan, I believe those Links have a shunt that is in series with the battery. If your float charger connects directly to the battery and not the other side of the shunt, the meter will not know the battery is being charged. Gary
Danny, sorry, 50ma is not that much, I shouldn't post while sleepy! What you should do it measure the current directly at the battery (remove cable and insert meter). Reudi, 25ma is 0.025amps, again not much. Dan, I believe those Links have a shunt that is in series with the battery. If your float charger connects directly to the battery and not the other side of the shunt, the meter will not know the battery is being charged. Gary
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Reudi Ross
dan
A DMM is a Digital Multi-Meter. Fluke is a quality brand of DMM that is also capable of measuring current flows up to 10 amps very precisely. While 25ma. is not much of a drain, it is a drain and it is constant. As far as your float charger not keeping up with it, again without knowing the specifics of your system, we are only speculating. many float charge settings are in the range of 13.2-13.8 volts. Most combiners are set to activate at 13.6 volts. it is possible that your combiner is not connecting the batteries together at your float voltage. Get a quality meter and confirm what your discharge rate is, determine if there are any other sources of discharge, then start chasing voltages to determine if your combiner is operating properly. Some chargers have adjustable float voltages, you may just need to bump it up slightly.
A DMM is a Digital Multi-Meter. Fluke is a quality brand of DMM that is also capable of measuring current flows up to 10 amps very precisely. While 25ma. is not much of a drain, it is a drain and it is constant. As far as your float charger not keeping up with it, again without knowing the specifics of your system, we are only speculating. many float charge settings are in the range of 13.2-13.8 volts. Most combiners are set to activate at 13.6 volts. it is possible that your combiner is not connecting the batteries together at your float voltage. Get a quality meter and confirm what your discharge rate is, determine if there are any other sources of discharge, then start chasing voltages to determine if your combiner is operating properly. Some chargers have adjustable float voltages, you may just need to bump it up slightly.
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