Hi everyone- As our experience grows with "Running on Empty", certain small questions come up: 1) Where do you put the hatchboards? We have two of smoked plexi and 2 of wood. There is a partioned-off chunk of the right side seat locker, on the foot-well side, that maybe is "supposed" to be where they go? Any other places? 2) For those of you with harness tether padeyes in the cockpit: What kind did you use and more importantly, where did you place them? I want one near the main hatch and one near the helm, perhaps one on either side of the helm... 3) How do you adjust the tension on the throttle cable/lever assembly? It's OK at low (<2000 rpm), but slips a bit at ~3000. 4) Where do you keep your winch handles while sailing? I have a sunbrella bag on either side of the main hatch for halyard tails, Etc. and that's where they go now. 5) Anyone know what kind of lights & sockets were original in the disco light bar? My has been modified with right angle metal sockest & zipcord (!!!) wiring. When turned on, the lamps draw like 15 amps and it's not what I want to do. I'm thinking of retro-fitting Flourescent fixtures, if they will fit behing the white cracked ice covers... BTW- THe boat sails wonderfully here on SF Bay. Since I got layed-off the day she was delivered, I've had a lot of time to tinker & sail, but I still need to find a job! ( at least after my son & I go to the Delta for a week next month...)
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My Two Cents Worth!
Hi Tom, Mixed feelings about being layed off, eh? With a new boat, you'd never go back to work if you didn't need a little spending money. Here's what I've done. 1) I've sown together a multi-pocketed cover out of pillow cases that I store the bin boards in. I never thought to use the sectioned off place in the cockpit locker. Do they fit? 2)Haven't used them. When offshore, I've used webbed straps run along the side decks. 3) Call Edson and have them send you their manual. I think there is a set screw under the compass, but I'm going by memory here. 4) I have a pvc winch handle holder attached with large ss hose clamps on the front side of the steering pedestal near the sole of the cockpit. Out of the way and easy to reach. 5) I never use my disco lights, as they draw way too much power, and aren't bright enough to really work. I've tried modifying them by rewiring with larger wire, and it did cut down the current draw some, but mainly made the lights brighter. I did divide them up to make them more useful. I put a three way switch on them. On position one, only the lights over the stove come on. On position two, the lights over the stove and the sink come on. On position three, all lights come on. What I now use is a Rail Lights, such as is found on page 651 of the WM catalog, installed right over the sink. Then I purchased the expensive Alpinglow lights to replace the overheads in the main salon. You'll love them. Much better than standard flourescents, natural light color, red night light, dual level lighting, teak surrounds. You get the picture. The next think you'll need to do is change the mainsheet purchase to a 6-1 system. Makes a world of difference. Good luck in your job search, but enjoy the time off. You don't get this much time to sail often. Mike
Hi Tom, Mixed feelings about being layed off, eh? With a new boat, you'd never go back to work if you didn't need a little spending money. Here's what I've done. 1) I've sown together a multi-pocketed cover out of pillow cases that I store the bin boards in. I never thought to use the sectioned off place in the cockpit locker. Do they fit? 2)Haven't used them. When offshore, I've used webbed straps run along the side decks. 3) Call Edson and have them send you their manual. I think there is a set screw under the compass, but I'm going by memory here. 4) I have a pvc winch handle holder attached with large ss hose clamps on the front side of the steering pedestal near the sole of the cockpit. Out of the way and easy to reach. 5) I never use my disco lights, as they draw way too much power, and aren't bright enough to really work. I've tried modifying them by rewiring with larger wire, and it did cut down the current draw some, but mainly made the lights brighter. I did divide them up to make them more useful. I put a three way switch on them. On position one, only the lights over the stove come on. On position two, the lights over the stove and the sink come on. On position three, all lights come on. What I now use is a Rail Lights, such as is found on page 651 of the WM catalog, installed right over the sink. Then I purchased the expensive Alpinglow lights to replace the overheads in the main salon. You'll love them. Much better than standard flourescents, natural light color, red night light, dual level lighting, teak surrounds. You get the picture. The next think you'll need to do is change the mainsheet purchase to a 6-1 system. Makes a world of difference. Good luck in your job search, but enjoy the time off. You don't get this much time to sail often. Mike
Not much help.
Tom: I'm not going to be a lot of help here but... 2.) As for you harness tether attachments, most owners attach them from the bow to the stern on cleats or attach the padeyes to the cabin. This prevents you from attaching and detaching as you move forward. If you use the bow/stern attachment use the nylon/poly webbing for your jacklines. If you walk on this you will not roll you foot under if you step on it wrong (unlike a rope line). 3.) If you throttle is creeping (as most do, sooner or later) check this out http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73064768600
Tom: I'm not going to be a lot of help here but... 2.) As for you harness tether attachments, most owners attach them from the bow to the stern on cleats or attach the padeyes to the cabin. This prevents you from attaching and detaching as you move forward. If you use the bow/stern attachment use the nylon/poly webbing for your jacklines. If you walk on this you will not roll you foot under if you step on it wrong (unlike a rope line). 3.) If you throttle is creeping (as most do, sooner or later) check this out http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73064768600
Thanks Guys! ( and two more questions)
Mike and Steve- Thanks for your comments. Steve, I never would have thought of a cable brake working on the outside of the cable sheath!!! I think I will try to adjust the screw Mike talks about first (heck, it's free!!) I'll let you know when and where we are headed when we go. It would be great to raft up and stop by for a gam and a cold one! Mike, Did I understand you to say that you do not have a pad eye or anything INSIDE the cockpit to hook your harness to? And yes, the space in the cockpit locker does fit the hatchboards. I just need to remember to open up the locker first, THEN open up the main hatch and remove the boards!! Finally, two more questions: 1) Where do you attach the main halyard when you put the boat away? If I put mine on the bail at the mast, the halyard slaps the mast (we have real wind here in SF Bay!). I'm thinking of running it to a lifeline or a lifeline base or to the aft end of the boom... 2) Any clever ideas for flying a burgee? Thanks, Tom Boles
Mike and Steve- Thanks for your comments. Steve, I never would have thought of a cable brake working on the outside of the cable sheath!!! I think I will try to adjust the screw Mike talks about first (heck, it's free!!) I'll let you know when and where we are headed when we go. It would be great to raft up and stop by for a gam and a cold one! Mike, Did I understand you to say that you do not have a pad eye or anything INSIDE the cockpit to hook your harness to? And yes, the space in the cockpit locker does fit the hatchboards. I just need to remember to open up the locker first, THEN open up the main hatch and remove the boards!! Finally, two more questions: 1) Where do you attach the main halyard when you put the boat away? If I put mine on the bail at the mast, the halyard slaps the mast (we have real wind here in SF Bay!). I'm thinking of running it to a lifeline or a lifeline base or to the aft end of the boom... 2) Any clever ideas for flying a burgee? Thanks, Tom Boles
Couple of Answers, Tom
1. Bind a small block on to one of the lazy jack runners. I did mine about a yard from the mast attachment. Use waxed line and seize it tight. It won't move. 2. I always left the halyard attached and just ran one of those poly bungees from a slack halyard to the hand rail on the cabin top. Sounds like you're having fun. Enjoy until employment encroaches again! PS: Rodger Beard finished 5th in class in the MDR/SD race in his V32. Good result considering the wind was on our nose most of the time and there were 55 boats entered. Rick D.
1. Bind a small block on to one of the lazy jack runners. I did mine about a yard from the mast attachment. Use waxed line and seize it tight. It won't move. 2. I always left the halyard attached and just ran one of those poly bungees from a slack halyard to the hand rail on the cabin top. Sounds like you're having fun. Enjoy until employment encroaches again! PS: Rodger Beard finished 5th in class in the MDR/SD race in his V32. Good result considering the wind was on our nose most of the time and there were 55 boats entered. Rick D.
Did not think that Edson had the adj. screw.
Tom: I did not think that Edson had the adjustment screw. I have one on my Y/S Merriman pedestal, but gave up on it. I just took the J-Clamp off my boat this past weekend and put it on a fellow sailors Fuji. Worked like a champ. I got mine from Richmond Boat Works in Richmond, CA. (FYI). I think you can get them anywhere in the bay that handles Morse Parts.
Tom: I did not think that Edson had the adjustment screw. I have one on my Y/S Merriman pedestal, but gave up on it. I just took the J-Clamp off my boat this past weekend and put it on a fellow sailors Fuji. Worked like a champ. I got mine from Richmond Boat Works in Richmond, CA. (FYI). I think you can get them anywhere in the bay that handles Morse Parts.
Halyard Attachment Point
Tom, I always attach my main halyard to the stantion base behind the mast (either side). That keeps it away from the mast and doesn't let the halyard slap the mast in the wind. I visited the Edson site to see if they had instructions for adjusting the throttle cable, but they only mention a "throttle friction adjustment" that might be there, depending on model. As I indicated, going from memory, I think I remember something like that to adjust the throttle cable. I've only had to do it once, and that was a few years ago. However, I'm on my third shift cable. I've never added a padeye for jacklines. In the cockpit, I've clipped onto the base of the wheel pedestle, and then clipped to the jacklines when going forward. Worked for me, but there is always a better way. Have fun!
Tom, I always attach my main halyard to the stantion base behind the mast (either side). That keeps it away from the mast and doesn't let the halyard slap the mast in the wind. I visited the Edson site to see if they had instructions for adjusting the throttle cable, but they only mention a "throttle friction adjustment" that might be there, depending on model. As I indicated, going from memory, I think I remember something like that to adjust the throttle cable. I've only had to do it once, and that was a few years ago. However, I'm on my third shift cable. I've never added a padeye for jacklines. In the cockpit, I've clipped onto the base of the wheel pedestle, and then clipped to the jacklines when going forward. Worked for me, but there is always a better way. Have fun!
Some Answers
Some answers that may help you Tom: 1. Our Vision 32 hatchboards fit into a 4-pocket canvas bag that is left in the starboard seat locker. 2. The original lamps for the dome light are a series of small incandescant bulbs in a tube. They draw 5 amps and give poor light. Nice mood lights but hard on the battery. On the list to replace. 3. Try stowing your main halyard by clipping to a small loop of 5/16" nylon line connected at the stern end of the boom. This serves as a topping lift to keep the boom at a reasonable height for 6 footers and can also prevents mast whip when motoring into heavy seas.
Some answers that may help you Tom: 1. Our Vision 32 hatchboards fit into a 4-pocket canvas bag that is left in the starboard seat locker. 2. The original lamps for the dome light are a series of small incandescant bulbs in a tube. They draw 5 amps and give poor light. Nice mood lights but hard on the battery. On the list to replace. 3. Try stowing your main halyard by clipping to a small loop of 5/16" nylon line connected at the stern end of the boom. This serves as a topping lift to keep the boom at a reasonable height for 6 footers and can also prevents mast whip when motoring into heavy seas.
Adjustment screw
My Edson has the throttle adjustment screw but the compass has to be removed first.
My Edson has the throttle adjustment screw but the compass has to be removed first.
Great Ideas & comments! & + reef line ?
Wow! Good stuff from everyone! Rick- That is great news regarding Roger's finish! Were you on the boat? Any pictures? Any stories you can tell? Where is Roger, anyway? I see the note on the Edson catalog I have pointing to the adjustment screw. It is a drag to have to remove the compass, so maybe I'll live with it or try the Morse clamp thing... For everyone, I've found a bare single tube flourescent fixture from Thinline that looks like it will fit in any or all of the disco light segments. I need to order one and see how it goes.... I like mike's idea of the "tube" lite from West especially for the head, however, so I may try that as well. Reef line: With the help of my 11 yr old today, we reeved the two reefing lines this morning. That is a lot of rope! I am thinking of removing the 2nd reef, just to ease up on the amount of line running around and make hoisting a little less complicated. any comments? Also: I have two bails left "free" on my boom. One is at the very aft end of the boom (maybe 4" from the end). The other is just in front (towards the bow) of the bail I have the Main sheet connected to. Any ideas? Cheers! Cheers
Wow! Good stuff from everyone! Rick- That is great news regarding Roger's finish! Were you on the boat? Any pictures? Any stories you can tell? Where is Roger, anyway? I see the note on the Edson catalog I have pointing to the adjustment screw. It is a drag to have to remove the compass, so maybe I'll live with it or try the Morse clamp thing... For everyone, I've found a bare single tube flourescent fixture from Thinline that looks like it will fit in any or all of the disco light segments. I need to order one and see how it goes.... I like mike's idea of the "tube" lite from West especially for the head, however, so I may try that as well. Reef line: With the help of my 11 yr old today, we reeved the two reefing lines this morning. That is a lot of rope! I am thinking of removing the 2nd reef, just to ease up on the amount of line running around and make hoisting a little less complicated. any comments? Also: I have two bails left "free" on my boom. One is at the very aft end of the boom (maybe 4" from the end). The other is just in front (towards the bow) of the bail I have the Main sheet connected to. Any ideas? Cheers! Cheers
New Couple of Answers
I haven't seen Rodger on the site recently. I suppose he's been busy. I'll send him a wake-up e-mail. No, I wasn't on the boat. I was on my own eating crow since he bashed me good. I think he did really well considering the conditions were the opposite of what the Vision likes. I had a couple of free bails also as I recall. I would leave the second reef reaved. You will need it sometine. As to the drag, there won't be any if you don't pull the reefing lines tight when you put her to bed. (You should not.) There will be more line dangling when you douse, but you get used to it. As to the mood lights, I never changed them since we only used it in the slip, but guests really liked them, so changing them out to something less hungry is a good idea. Just be sure it's marine. I know that flourescents have crashed some electronics on other boats when they were not marine. Good luck; Rick D.
I haven't seen Rodger on the site recently. I suppose he's been busy. I'll send him a wake-up e-mail. No, I wasn't on the boat. I was on my own eating crow since he bashed me good. I think he did really well considering the conditions were the opposite of what the Vision likes. I had a couple of free bails also as I recall. I would leave the second reef reaved. You will need it sometine. As to the drag, there won't be any if you don't pull the reefing lines tight when you put her to bed. (You should not.) There will be more line dangling when you douse, but you get used to it. As to the mood lights, I never changed them since we only used it in the slip, but guests really liked them, so changing them out to something less hungry is a good idea. Just be sure it's marine. I know that flourescents have crashed some electronics on other boats when they were not marine. Good luck; Rick D.
More Questions Than Answers
One thing all your posts are doing is raising questions. Looks like there are slightly different configurations on some of the Visions out there. Mine is a late '89 model. I have the brochures from '89 and '91, and they show differences in the interiors. Mine is a combination of the two, with the later cabinet doors in the galley, the earlier tambour doors on the forward cabinets, and the earlier icebox configuration. Hunter does make changes in mid-stream. The first real question that comes up though is about the height of the boom. I'm 6' and my boom clears me while at rest, with the main sheet honked down pretty tight. Its the same height it was when I bought the boat a year old, so the spring inside hasn't fatigued (those of you who have seen this spring would wonder how it would ever fatigue). However, with the bimini up, which just allows me to stand under it, the boom will rub against the front support tube of the bimini, wearing the Sunbrella cloth. Whenever the sail is down, I now pull the traveler all the way to one side or the other (opposite whichever side I'm getting off the boat at the dock). I lock it at that position by running the traveler adjustment line across the ss grab bars on the cabin top to the base of the nearest stanchion, and back up thru one of the mainsheet bails on the bottom of the boom, where I secure it. This does two things. One, it stabilizes the boom at the dock, especially during storms. Second, and more important, it stabilizes the boom while working on the sail on the cabin top. A 16' boom swings a lot, especially in waves, and it makes it much safer to work on while raising or dousing sails. Those of you with the boom low enough to run into in the cockpit, can adjust the boom height by taking apart the vang and adding a pvc spacer. This is assuming that the mainsail hasn't been cut for a low boom height during sailing. My mainsail causes the boom to rise far enough during sailing that there is plenty of clearance in the cockpit, even for a 6'6" friend of mine. The second question is about the "disco" light bar. As I indicated in an earlier post, they do draw a lot of power, pegging my 10 amp charger. I'm sure the "zip" cord wiring you found in your boat wasn't original. It should be rewired with the heaviest marine grade wire you can run. Again, I rewired mine and the bulbs ran brighter, but still draws over 10 amps. But I doubt that the incandescent tube lights that Doug describes are original either. I looked at 12V tube lights recently, even bought a strip and brought them to the boat. They drew about 5 amps and weren't very bright. I took them back. If anyone out there finds a way of modifying these lights so they are practical, especially at anchor, I would like to hear about it. The only problem I see with the flourescent approach is it won't be evenly lit behind the plastic covers. Anyway, keep your posts coming, Tom. It keeps it interesting. Good sailing! Mike
One thing all your posts are doing is raising questions. Looks like there are slightly different configurations on some of the Visions out there. Mine is a late '89 model. I have the brochures from '89 and '91, and they show differences in the interiors. Mine is a combination of the two, with the later cabinet doors in the galley, the earlier tambour doors on the forward cabinets, and the earlier icebox configuration. Hunter does make changes in mid-stream. The first real question that comes up though is about the height of the boom. I'm 6' and my boom clears me while at rest, with the main sheet honked down pretty tight. Its the same height it was when I bought the boat a year old, so the spring inside hasn't fatigued (those of you who have seen this spring would wonder how it would ever fatigue). However, with the bimini up, which just allows me to stand under it, the boom will rub against the front support tube of the bimini, wearing the Sunbrella cloth. Whenever the sail is down, I now pull the traveler all the way to one side or the other (opposite whichever side I'm getting off the boat at the dock). I lock it at that position by running the traveler adjustment line across the ss grab bars on the cabin top to the base of the nearest stanchion, and back up thru one of the mainsheet bails on the bottom of the boom, where I secure it. This does two things. One, it stabilizes the boom at the dock, especially during storms. Second, and more important, it stabilizes the boom while working on the sail on the cabin top. A 16' boom swings a lot, especially in waves, and it makes it much safer to work on while raising or dousing sails. Those of you with the boom low enough to run into in the cockpit, can adjust the boom height by taking apart the vang and adding a pvc spacer. This is assuming that the mainsail hasn't been cut for a low boom height during sailing. My mainsail causes the boom to rise far enough during sailing that there is plenty of clearance in the cockpit, even for a 6'6" friend of mine. The second question is about the "disco" light bar. As I indicated in an earlier post, they do draw a lot of power, pegging my 10 amp charger. I'm sure the "zip" cord wiring you found in your boat wasn't original. It should be rewired with the heaviest marine grade wire you can run. Again, I rewired mine and the bulbs ran brighter, but still draws over 10 amps. But I doubt that the incandescent tube lights that Doug describes are original either. I looked at 12V tube lights recently, even bought a strip and brought them to the boat. They drew about 5 amps and weren't very bright. I took them back. If anyone out there finds a way of modifying these lights so they are practical, especially at anchor, I would like to hear about it. The only problem I see with the flourescent approach is it won't be evenly lit behind the plastic covers. Anyway, keep your posts coming, Tom. It keeps it interesting. Good sailing! Mike
More comments than anything else...
Running changes seem to be more common with Hunter than I have seen in some other boats. My boat is a '90, but it was started (layed up) in '89. I have the sliding plexi doors in the salon, the fore
Running changes seem to be more common with Hunter than I have seen in some other boats. My boat is a '90, but it was started (layed up) in '89. I have the sliding plexi doors in the salon, the fore
reef lines v-32
Being another 'new' v-32 owner I have followed this and Tom's other posts closely. It had been suggested to me that the reef lines ought to be replaced with a smaller diameter line to decrease the friction. I think they are 1/2" now? Has anyone tried that? On other points, I tie the main haylard to a stantion base. When seas are rough I run a line from the mast step to one of the winches atop the cabin for a jack line, it then runs near the centerlineand that makes me more comfortable. In the cockpit I put a tether around the steering pedestal. As for flying a burgee, I haven't done it but have given it some thouhgt, I have two Jib haylards, one for the Jib and one for the genniker (sp?)(which I haven't used yet but have puzzeled out, I think, hope to give it a go this weekend. Anyway, I thought a block forward and the spare haylard would do the trick, do the other vision 32's have this? Finally, Tom, IT's A GREAT time to be not working! I'll hoist a cold one with you once the sun passes the yard arm! ( in spirit, I'm on the other coast) Matt Picaro Cream Ridge, NJ
Being another 'new' v-32 owner I have followed this and Tom's other posts closely. It had been suggested to me that the reef lines ought to be replaced with a smaller diameter line to decrease the friction. I think they are 1/2" now? Has anyone tried that? On other points, I tie the main haylard to a stantion base. When seas are rough I run a line from the mast step to one of the winches atop the cabin for a jack line, it then runs near the centerlineand that makes me more comfortable. In the cockpit I put a tether around the steering pedestal. As for flying a burgee, I haven't done it but have given it some thouhgt, I have two Jib haylards, one for the Jib and one for the genniker (sp?)(which I haven't used yet but have puzzeled out, I think, hope to give it a go this weekend. Anyway, I thought a block forward and the spare haylard would do the trick, do the other vision 32's have this? Finally, Tom, IT's A GREAT time to be not working! I'll hoist a cold one with you once the sun passes the yard arm! ( in spirit, I'm on the other coast) Matt Picaro Cream Ridge, NJ
Reef Lines
I think the reef lines are 7/16, same as the main halyard. I would not make them smaller, as they are under very high loads during reefing. Also, 7/16th lines are easier to handle, and you want things to be very easy to handle when you're trying to reef during a squall! I don't notice the friction in the system during reefing. However, I used to pull the reefing lines back to the cockpit every time I doused the sail, and the friction was very apparent then. Now, I leave the reefing lines out when dousing the sail, and just wrap them around the end of the boom. It makes setting and dousing the sail easier by doing it this way.
I think the reef lines are 7/16, same as the main halyard. I would not make them smaller, as they are under very high loads during reefing. Also, 7/16th lines are easier to handle, and you want things to be very easy to handle when you're trying to reef during a squall! I don't notice the friction in the system during reefing. However, I used to pull the reefing lines back to the cockpit every time I doused the sail, and the friction was very apparent then. Now, I leave the reefing lines out when dousing the sail, and just wrap them around the end of the boom. It makes setting and dousing the sail easier by doing it this way.
Reefing lines & sizes & what happened...
Mike makes a good point about size. The reefing lines really are under a lot of stress when in use, and "leaving them out" lessens the friction, so I'd say leave them be. An aside-my last post looks like it got cut off. I'll make the comments in another post. Cheers!
Mike makes a good point about size. The reefing lines really are under a lot of stress when in use, and "leaving them out" lessens the friction, so I'd say leave them be. An aside-my last post looks like it got cut off. I'll make the comments in another post. Cheers!
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