I have a 2003 Jeanneau SO 35. The vinyl lining in the forward cabin has separated from the fiberglass hull. I am having trouble finding something to get the vinyl to reapply and adhere to the fiberglass. Any suggestions on what would adhere the vinyl to the fiberglass?
vinyl lining separated from the fiberglass hull
- Thread starter Diek
- Start date
Something like this should work…holds up the head liner in a car…
3m Super 77 Spray Adhesive Amazon.com: 3m Super 77 Spray Adhesive : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Greg
3m Super 77 Spray Adhesive Amazon.com: 3m Super 77 Spray Adhesive : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Greg
Is the vinyl material backed by foam? If yes, the foam and/or adhesive backing is disintegrating from age and needs to be replaced. Over time the problem will become worse. There is no permanent fix other than to rip it off and remove the adhesive, then replace it. New material and the Super 77 spray @Tallly Ho mentioned.
If that is the case a band-aid approach that might work is use teak strips and screw fasteners over the top of it.
In my experience (different boat maker) the adhesive residue is very difficult to remove with solvents. 3M Woodgrain and Stripe Remover chemically converts the adhesive to a waxy substance that isn't sticky, and is much easier to remove with scrapers and rags/solvents such as 3M Adhesive Remover than the original adhesive.
If that is the case a band-aid approach that might work is use teak strips and screw fasteners over the top of it.
In my experience (different boat maker) the adhesive residue is very difficult to remove with solvents. 3M Woodgrain and Stripe Remover chemically converts the adhesive to a waxy substance that isn't sticky, and is much easier to remove with scrapers and rags/solvents such as 3M Adhesive Remover than the original adhesive.
Last edited:
This. That foam prevents just gluing it on again with 3m adhesive.
Larry has clearly been there. What a PITA.
Yes, plain Jane latex rubber. Paint it on both surfaces, let it air dry and press together. You can build up layers if you need to to get better contact by letting each layer dry (you can force dry it with a heatgun). When both surfaces are dry, press together and go over them with a stiff metal or plastic roller. Very safe to use, cheap and was the original contact cement before contact cement was a thing and they started selling the outrageously expensive stuff in the spray cans, although they do work pretty well (some of them).