"vinly custom lettering '
- Thread starter Coxie
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you can order them online from just about any chandlery. Try here first, the check WM.. I know they have the service for sure.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...16&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&ddkey=SiteSearch
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...16&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&ddkey=SiteSearch
least expensive with high quality and fastest delivery is lettersunlimited.com
same day shipping. when i had a problem getting new catalina logos from catalina, i had catalina email the artwork and had them same day for about a third of the cost.
order the premium vinyl.
mike
same day shipping. when i had a problem getting new catalina logos from catalina, i had catalina email the artwork and had them same day for about a third of the cost.
order the premium vinyl.
mike
I used a local sign/decal place near Bristol PA. I brought him the lettering that I had made up in Word and he was able to match it with some customization. He explained how to install it and I gave it a try. The cost was about $80.00 and would have been $120.00 installed. The result is my avatar.
I would think that it is not as simple as ordering just letters. It would be if the surface that it is being installed is flat or vertical. The haul of a boat is not flat so the lettering would have to be distorted so that when it is viewed it will appear correctly. To understand this just look at your shadow as it goes past diferent surfaces.
It's not the easiest thing to do but if you're careful, it can be done. The larger the surface area you are covering, the harder it is to apply. I owned a sign shop for years and still do some lettering installation when the need arises. Vinyl lettering stretches and conforms to irregular shapes very easily.
Here's the process...
Tape the lettering in place with the backer paper still on. The lettering will come in a 3 layer sandwich with the lettering in the middle, backer paper (just like the backer paper on a bumper sticker) and a top layer of transfer tape. The transfer tape is what keeps all the lettering in place and properly spaced while you're applying.
Once you get the whole thing in place with tape, straight, centered, etc., create a hinge with masking tape along the entire length of the top edge. This way you can lift the lettering up from the bottom to remove the backer paper and keep the lettering where you want it. Then you need to hold the lettering out at maybe a 30 degree angle to the hull with one hand while you squeegee the lettering in place from the top down with a Bondo applicator or a designated vinyl squeegee from the sign shop you use. The trick is to only allow the lettering to come into contact with the hull when pressed into place with the squeegee. Do not pull the backer paper off and drop the lettering in place, then squeegee it down, you'll get all kinds of bubbles and wrinkles that way. By squeegeeing the lettering down while holding it away at an angle, you push all the air out from behind the vinyl.
There are lots of little tricks...if you get your lettering online and want someone to walk you through the process...send me a message and I'll help you out.
Here's the process...
Tape the lettering in place with the backer paper still on. The lettering will come in a 3 layer sandwich with the lettering in the middle, backer paper (just like the backer paper on a bumper sticker) and a top layer of transfer tape. The transfer tape is what keeps all the lettering in place and properly spaced while you're applying.
Once you get the whole thing in place with tape, straight, centered, etc., create a hinge with masking tape along the entire length of the top edge. This way you can lift the lettering up from the bottom to remove the backer paper and keep the lettering where you want it. Then you need to hold the lettering out at maybe a 30 degree angle to the hull with one hand while you squeegee the lettering in place from the top down with a Bondo applicator or a designated vinyl squeegee from the sign shop you use. The trick is to only allow the lettering to come into contact with the hull when pressed into place with the squeegee. Do not pull the backer paper off and drop the lettering in place, then squeegee it down, you'll get all kinds of bubbles and wrinkles that way. By squeegeeing the lettering down while holding it away at an angle, you push all the air out from behind the vinyl.
There are lots of little tricks...if you get your lettering online and want someone to walk you through the process...send me a message and I'll help you out.
VINLY ???
Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteres are at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a tatol mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe.
Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteres are at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a tatol mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe.
I have to throw in my vote for http://new.speedysigns.com/
Good quality. Online design.
And they even called me when I gave them the wrong height for the home port name.
Good quality. Online design.
And they even called me when I gave them the wrong height for the home port name.
Danny's method is almost exactly how I was coached except that I made the hinge vertical. It sounds like Danny uses a horizontal hinge. This may be easier. I've only done the job once. The shawdow noticed by Joe White may be the black shawdow on all of the letters. Mine is a two layer process. First the black is applied and then the gold. There were taps on each layer used to line them up.
Vertical or horizontal, either way works but if it's a long line of copy and it is a curved surface, the vinyl might start to rise or fall depending on the curvature if you have a vertical hinge. A horizontal hinge keeps everything straight. One more quick tip that only works with a horizontal hinge, once the hinge is in place, you can cut in between the letters up to the hinge to apply one letter at a time or shorter groups of letters. This makes the install go very easy but it only works in places where you can cut in between the letters, some scripted fonts don't have breaks to cut in between.
When I got my boat and renamed her, I used a local sign shop. For a set of HINS and the name (aft only) it cost about $30.00. I brought along a squirt bottle and the owner gave me some application liquid to boot. From what I understand, you can use water and a little squirt of dish detergent as well (1/2 tsp to 8 -10 oz). For application I was told to make reference marks on the backer (horizontal and vertical) and then tape the lettering in place and adjust as needed. Transfer the reference marks to the hull in pencil. Remove the the lettering, spray the hull liberally, remove the first layer off the stencil (the side that goes on the hull) spray liberally. Reattach lining up the marks and then with the squeegee / bondo scraper smooth out the lettering and work out the bubbles (start in the middle and work outward). If you happen to get a bubble that just won't work out use a pin to make a small hole (I can't say "Pr^#k it"). Allow to set for several hours or overnight to dry then peel off the outside layer carefully, if any thing starts to lift, press back down and wait a little longer. I've had mine on for a few years and even accidentally hit it with the buffer and no ill effects. And beyond all else, Do a proper Renaming ceremony...
Hope this helps,
Nik
Hope this helps,
Nik
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