Victron Battery Monitor Troubleshooting

[Blitz]

You probably moved that coil of wire, but might it be too close to those high-current cables? I put all my excess at the display end.

Made me think for a second, but I had that coil straight out and uncoiled at one point, didn't make any difference. Thanks

 

[Blitz]

Thoughts on voltage: 12.2V? Are you on a mooring?

10.9 V to the unit would most likely not turn it on, although you'd have to read the specs on the unit to find the range of voltages it requires.

Wiggling wires usually does nothing helpful, other than sometimes identifying a loose connection, or creating sparks!

I'd do two things: charge your house bank up to full for 12.7V (although you'd see the same voltage drop proportionally - but you may just may get the monitor to light), and replace the small power red + wiring, including those fuseholders that MS mentioned and carefully reconnect from the wires to those plugs into the shunt. Cut pretty far back from the plugs in case you have to do it over, you don't wanna run out of wire to those special plugs.

That's what I'd do if it was my boat.

Good luck.

Nice wiring job, BTW.

Stu;

I'm not on a mooring. Currently on the hard. Summers at the dock,, using a charger. I have flooded batteries.

Operating range according to manual indicates it starts at 9.5 volts. I tried it out with charger on (14.5 volts) and it did not light up.

The batteries are over five years old, I'm not thinking there is too much more life in them. Old Raritan charger probably boiled them too many times. I wanted to set everything up before giving them a good charge on new charger.

I agree, new fuses are in order either way for the small power leads.

Thanks-wiring is a work in progress, will make them a little neater when I figure this out.

 

[Blitz]

Try replacing the fuses. I had the exact same problem out of the box and discovered that the product shipped with some weird type of fuse that was clearly incorrect and was causing the voltage to drop to 10.2v, which would not get the unit going. I was confused because I was getting a connection and voltage and assumed I was good. Just before sending the thing back, I replaced with 1amp fuses and it worked. Weird, hu?

Today I tried replacing the fuses as suggested by many, still no response from the unit.

I also used an ohm meter to check the continuity of each of the 6 wires on the UTP cable and they were all good and matched up end to end.

 

[Blitz]

Good news, After answering a few questions on email from Victron explaining the problems and things I've tried they sent me a new unit last week by surprise.

I clicked the new display into the UTP cord that was already hooked up to the shunt and it worked. My original display must have been bad. Thanks to the understanding nature of VICTRON I'm back in buissness.

Thanks for everyones help, especially MaineSail & Stu!