Just got a radio and am now trying to come up with the most elegant way of running the coax to it from the mast top. I bought one long wire with one plug already connected and one to install. On the way home I realized that would be fine until I wanted to take down the mast. I tried to search the archives but the do not seem to be working. Anyone out there have some suggestions. I would like to put a through fitting in the deck that would allow me to connect the line down from the mast. Sort of like the connection for the mast lights. It was also suggested to me to slit a length of PVC tubing run the wires inside of that and run that down the mast to keep the wires from banging around inside the mast. I have also heard about attaching zip ties around the wires pointing out in different directions to the same thing. What have others done and what are your suggestions.
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Harvey Small
Reference
What you need is a copy of The Optimum Sailboat by Ronald Florence published by Harper Row. He doesn't just give you one way to do things, but presents several alternatives so you can figure out which one works best for you and your boat. The drawings alone are worth the price of the book. Also, be sure you get an emergency antenna for your VHF -- that masthead antenna won't do you a lot of good in a dismasting!
What you need is a copy of The Optimum Sailboat by Ronald Florence published by Harper Row. He doesn't just give you one way to do things, but presents several alternatives so you can figure out which one works best for you and your boat. The drawings alone are worth the price of the book. Also, be sure you get an emergency antenna for your VHF -- that masthead antenna won't do you a lot of good in a dismasting!
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Ken Shubert
Works Great
Mine is a simple wire whip on top of the mast. It will not give as much distance as a 'gain' type antenna but it's also usable for TV and the 2 Meter Amateur band too. Slapping noise has not been a problem -- probably because there's so much rope inside the mast anyway. I haven't gotten around to putting the 'bulkhead' connector thru the cabin roof and may not since I use it in the cockpit mosly anyway. Don't forget to carry a portable antenna that can be used in case the mast isn't up anymore...... a most serious need for a VHF radio! Some places seem to favor a stern-rail mounted antenna but it makes me nervous to be sitting by a transmitting antenna. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
Mine is a simple wire whip on top of the mast. It will not give as much distance as a 'gain' type antenna but it's also usable for TV and the 2 Meter Amateur band too. Slapping noise has not been a problem -- probably because there's so much rope inside the mast anyway. I haven't gotten around to putting the 'bulkhead' connector thru the cabin roof and may not since I use it in the cockpit mosly anyway. Don't forget to carry a portable antenna that can be used in case the mast isn't up anymore...... a most serious need for a VHF radio! Some places seem to favor a stern-rail mounted antenna but it makes me nervous to be sitting by a transmitting antenna. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
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Rick webb
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Jay Hill
You might find that...
...your mast already has the PVC tube in it with the light cables run through it. (Not actually sure if a 23.5 has this or not, but it's standard on bigger boats.) IMHO: Two options: 1) disconnect light wires from top of mast and use it to pull both antenna and NEW LIGHTING WIRE through PVC and hole in base of mast for connectorization. 2) Unstep the mast (much simpler on a 23.5) and run the coax (stiff cable) through the PVC In any case, you definitely want a connector on the cable whether inside or outside of the base of the mast. If your mast does not have the PVC already, and you have not noticed the light wires banging, I'd just hang the coax along with it reducing slack as much as possible inside the mast. The zip-tie-inside-the-mast idea actually works but also tends to chafe halyards, especially in a small mast like on a 23.5.
...your mast already has the PVC tube in it with the light cables run through it. (Not actually sure if a 23.5 has this or not, but it's standard on bigger boats.) IMHO: Two options: 1) disconnect light wires from top of mast and use it to pull both antenna and NEW LIGHTING WIRE through PVC and hole in base of mast for connectorization. 2) Unstep the mast (much simpler on a 23.5) and run the coax (stiff cable) through the PVC In any case, you definitely want a connector on the cable whether inside or outside of the base of the mast. If your mast does not have the PVC already, and you have not noticed the light wires banging, I'd just hang the coax along with it reducing slack as much as possible inside the mast. The zip-tie-inside-the-mast idea actually works but also tends to chafe halyards, especially in a small mast like on a 23.5.
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SEAN COERSE
VHF
I installed a VHF on my H240. I mounted the radio on the back side of the compainion way steps. I ran the power to the battery under the aft birth. I ran the antena cable under floor pan to the mast compression post. I then ran the cable up the post and hid it with a piece of molded teak. Drill a hole in the deck at the base of the mast and install the disconect on the deck. Took about 4 hours for the whole jub. Use and electrician tape to feed the cable under the floor pan. It's not very hard. Just have to get past the fobia of drilling a hole in the top of the deck.
I installed a VHF on my H240. I mounted the radio on the back side of the compainion way steps. I ran the power to the battery under the aft birth. I ran the antena cable under floor pan to the mast compression post. I then ran the cable up the post and hid it with a piece of molded teak. Drill a hole in the deck at the base of the mast and install the disconect on the deck. Took about 4 hours for the whole jub. Use and electrician tape to feed the cable under the floor pan. It's not very hard. Just have to get past the fobia of drilling a hole in the top of the deck.
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Rick Webb
How thick...
... is the deck by the mast and is it one solid peice or is there space between the deck and the head liner? I would rather not drill holes to experiment if somone else has already figured this one out. It would seem that the thru deck connector would be the way to go but threading just the cable through a smaller hole has it's appeal as well.
... is the deck by the mast and is it one solid peice or is there space between the deck and the head liner? I would rather not drill holes to experiment if somone else has already figured this one out. It would seem that the thru deck connector would be the way to go but threading just the cable through a smaller hole has it's appeal as well.
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Dave Condon
Placement
Rick, Please advise if you have cover plates at the top of the compression post and I will respond to you. Crazy Dave Condon
Rick, Please advise if you have cover plates at the top of the compression post and I will respond to you. Crazy Dave Condon
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Rick Webb
Dave..
there are no cover plates around the top of the compression post. It is a 95 23.5. Thanks fo any suggestions you have.
there are no cover plates around the top of the compression post. It is a 95 23.5. Thanks fo any suggestions you have.
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Ghery Pettit
Wouff Hong
Ken, I figured you had to be a ham with a boat name like that. Good suggestion on the spare antenna. As noted, a mast head antenna isn't very useful when it's in the water after a dismasting. 73 Ghery, N6TPT S/V Cougar Pride
Ken, I figured you had to be a ham with a boat name like that. Good suggestion on the spare antenna. As noted, a mast head antenna isn't very useful when it's in the water after a dismasting. 73 Ghery, N6TPT S/V Cougar Pride
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Ken Shubert
Have a Look
There are a couple of places that might give you a glimpse inside the headliner space. The light fixtures and the inspection plates under the winches. The forward light is close to the compression post and might lead to some good possibilities. Another problem: neither the 'UHF' or the 'BNC' series of cable connectors are very water tight. Some sort of boot or even tape would be a good idea and even more important in a salt water environment. Some people say to only use the large (1/2") coax cable but that's an awful hassle and just not worth the gain for a small boat. There's no PVC tube in my mast..... just ropes and wires that slap anyway. My handheld 5W radio gives a solid 10 mile range with the mast mount antenna. The handheld is completely independent of boat power and there's always a new set of spare batteries and short antenna with the flares and horn. Just hope they're never needed. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
There are a couple of places that might give you a glimpse inside the headliner space. The light fixtures and the inspection plates under the winches. The forward light is close to the compression post and might lead to some good possibilities. Another problem: neither the 'UHF' or the 'BNC' series of cable connectors are very water tight. Some sort of boot or even tape would be a good idea and even more important in a salt water environment. Some people say to only use the large (1/2") coax cable but that's an awful hassle and just not worth the gain for a small boat. There's no PVC tube in my mast..... just ropes and wires that slap anyway. My handheld 5W radio gives a solid 10 mile range with the mast mount antenna. The handheld is completely independent of boat power and there's always a new set of spare batteries and short antenna with the flares and horn. Just hope they're never needed. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
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Rick Webb
Another Thought
I was thinking maybe I do not need to go through the deck at all. The companion way hatch hinges very near the the mast. If I can feed the cable through as far foward as posible it may work as well as going through the deck but without the need for putting a hole in the boat( I start sweating every time I think of that). A little bit of time to set up everytime but maybe the best soution in the long run.
I was thinking maybe I do not need to go through the deck at all. The companion way hatch hinges very near the the mast. If I can feed the cable through as far foward as posible it may work as well as going through the deck but without the need for putting a hole in the boat( I start sweating every time I think of that). A little bit of time to set up everytime but maybe the best soution in the long run.
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SEAN COERSE
DRILL
Rick it's no big deal. Drill the whole near the base of the mast. Seal it with resin. Boat US and West both sell a deck fitting that screws in over the hole and allows the cable to pass through. It's water tight. Then use a connection with two male ends on it. Connect the female that you ran through the hole, and the female that down the mast. wrap the connection with rigging tape. Just be sure to unscrew the connection when you drop the mast. I've had mine for over a year. No leaks. VHF works great. In my opinion it is better to have a VHF hard wired in, and keep a handheld for a back up.
Rick it's no big deal. Drill the whole near the base of the mast. Seal it with resin. Boat US and West both sell a deck fitting that screws in over the hole and allows the cable to pass through. It's water tight. Then use a connection with two male ends on it. Connect the female that you ran through the hole, and the female that down the mast. wrap the connection with rigging tape. Just be sure to unscrew the connection when you drop the mast. I've had mine for over a year. No leaks. VHF works great. In my opinion it is better to have a VHF hard wired in, and keep a handheld for a back up.
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