VHF coax connector needs help

Sep 30, 2013
3,585
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
The cable was wrapped in white tape when I bought the boat, now I see why! I figured I'd cut the coax cable just below the deck, pull some more wire through, and put a new connector on. Yes?

Doing a little poking around, I've learned that there is a BLINDING array of these little connectors out there. Catalina Direct sells this one, any thoughts on it? http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2201/solderless-male-coax-connector.cfm

I think I also may need to replace the through-deck fitting. CD offers this one http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=308 but a) I distrust it because it's plastic and b) it has to be disassembled and reassembled every time the mast is stepped. Not too sure I like that idea.

Any advice would be appreciated!
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
The connectors are fairly common. if there is a Radio Shack store around, you could probably find what you need fairly I expensively. As for the thru deck fitting, try this site or your local Worst Marine Store.
 
Jan 22, 2008
423
Catalina 30 Mandeville, La.
DON'T!!! use the connectors you linked to. They suck and are way too expensive. I use crimp on connectors which are low priced, and most importantly, easier to install. I realize that a crimping tool is part of the mix, but a $3 connector and a $30 crimper isn't all that much more than $13 crappy connector. Some will argue that soldered connectors are superior, and they would be wrong. The commercial communications industry has left soldered connections behind, because some, especially PL259's, are difficult to install. A lot of guys who think they do a good job on soldered PL-259's, still melt the dielectric or cold solder the braid. There is no performance degradation with a crimped on connector.

Your coax needs to be replaced too. On a C22, you are going to need 30-40 feet of coax. You don't need some big fat RG8 or LMU400 at those lengths. If closer to 30 feet, you can get away with RG58, but RG8X has about 25% less loss, but LMR240 has 50% loss that RG58 does. I use LMR240 for lengths <100' and highly recommend it for installations like yours. LMR240 costs about .70 per foot. You can find a crimper and connectors on eBay for about $30 & $3 respectively. You could end up spending close to a hundred dollars by the time you're done, but you could resell the crimper and get most of that back, or just hang on to it.

Whatever you decide, even if you go with the dreaded pinch-on connector from Catalina Direct, weatherseal it. Electrical tape will last a few months and is fine for sealing the deck connection if you regularly step the mast, but I would use something more permanent at the antenna. Hopefully I convinced you to install crimped on connectors. When you are installing that, slip three pieces of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on the cable first. Then, after you have the beautiful crimped on connector completed, run one length of HS tubing up to the base of the connector and shrink it, then the next on top of it and then the third on top of it. This will make a durable connector that won't end up like the first pic you posted. After it's connected, weatherseal the connector. You can wrap in electrical tape, but it won't last, self amalgamating tape designed for this, or butyl tape. The butyl method is a little sticky, but probably the best seal. If you have some of the butyl tape that Maine Sail sells, wrap the connector with electrical tape first, then a single wrap of butyl, followed by another wrap of electrical tape. The first layer of tape is called a "courtesy wrap" because the butyl will leave some sticky bits in the knurled parts of teh connector. It doesn't affect performance, but will be sticky if you ever have to remove it.

Oh, I almost forgot. At the deck fitting, you can install a female connector on the cable extending through the fitting, or a bulkhead barrel that replaces the deck fitting. Sometimes, it harder to find the female connector -SO239, but you could just put a short barrel connector between two male connectors. The added loss is minimal and will not affect performance. I like the female connector on the cable - also crimped on, because the bulkhead connector is more exposed and you have to remember to seal it when disconnected.
 
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Jan 14, 2014
225
Newport Newport 28 Fair Haven, NY
I used one of these for my deck connector:

Glomex RA105 Coax Deck Fitting Kit

The deck fitting you listed is a nice watertight seal for cables passing through things, but you still have to have connectors somewhere, as it's not really something you want to have to take apart, back together, take apart, etc. The way I ran mine, to step my mast, is this way:



I used that same deck connector, but on the mast for my wire exit (I had it, why not lol). That comes down to the two deck fittings, one for wiring, and the other is the VHF connector. The way it works, is the actual PL259 fitting is installed, then the boot slides down and sort of locks into place over it. So to unscrew the fitting, you just unscrew the boot. It sort of pinches around the connector - you can feel it through the rubber. I do want to make a cap for the exposed deck fitting when it's not in place though, just for peace of mind.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
DON'T!!! use the connectors you linked to. They suck and are way too expensive.
AMEN!!! Someone will die because of these someday, and then perhaps the class action suit they deserve, for putting such utter garbage on the market, for a SAFETY ITEM, will happen.....;)
 
Feb 16, 2011
227
Macgregor 26X Michigan City, IN
West Marine sells one very like that, no glue or tape needed, just wire cutters and pliers. I used it on a similar probkem - no regrets. :D

The cable was wrapped in white tape when I bought the boat, now I see why! I figured I'd cut the coax cable just below the deck, pull some more wire through, and put a new connector on. Yes?

Doing a little poking around, I've learned that there is a BLINDING array of these little connectors out there. Catalina Direct sells this one, any thoughts on it? http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2201/solderless-male-coax-connector.cfm

I think I also may need to replace the through-deck fitting. CD offers this one http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=308 but a) I distrust it because it's plastic and b) it has to be disassembled and reassembled every time the mast is stepped. Not too sure I like that idea.

Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,436
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I've got one inline on mine, and no problems so far. Been installed for about two years. But my next, bigger boat will probably be all soldered connectors.
Years and years ago, I soldered a lot of these connectors. Got really good at doing it. And I screwed a lot up along the way. About the only to tell if it is properly done is with a network analyzer or Time Domain Reflectometer. Neither of which are consumer type testers. Buy a good quality connector such as Amphenol and crimp it. I understand that Genuine Dealz even loans crimpers???
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,048
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Years and years ago, I soldered a lot of these connectors. Got really good at doing it. And I screwed a lot up along the way. About the only to tell if it is properly done is with a network analyzer or Time Domain Reflectometer. snip-
I've soldered only a few, but they worked...properly? ;)
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
My concern is the "contact" with braid and with center conductor. My concern is that a small piercing fang is not going to make really good contact with the braid. And the center pin is a hit and miss proposition.

While doing satellite work, we used compression F connectors. These connectors slid down between the braid and the center insulation. When we slid on the compression ring it made a solid connection with the connector and the braid, all the braid. Not just a little bit of braid, but all of it.

There are PL-259 connector with that type of connection for the braid. These are made by Amphenol (Amphenol Connex UHF Male Crimp Connector) and are very good. If you really want to go solderless then this is the route to go. You may have to solder the tip of the connector but that is easier than trying to flow solder on the braid and not do a good job.
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
Dawg, that is a PL259. The standard, nothing special. What does the other side look like?

And Brian, how did you end up with a KF call? KE is the left side..
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Chris, I don't know. Didn't the FCC do away with designating East Coast (W) and West Coast (K) calls a long time ago? My first call was KA6OHT.
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
Oh lordy Brian, you would know better than I. I truly have not heard this at all, I've had my call sign so long I tend to let the details slide. It also used to be FM broadcast stations started with 'W' over here, and a 'K' on your side, so it is sort of a surprise.
Anyway, sorry for the distraction all, back to connectors. My opinion? I don't think I've EVER seen a PL259 that I liked. It surely seems in today's world someone COULD come up with a decent coax end that doesn't look like a toy. Of like mind the splitters we were talking about on another thread; it is amazing what manufacturers seem to 'get away with', when it comes to simple electronics..
 
Dec 28, 2009
397
Macgregor M25 trailer
Back in the early 60's and before W cals were issued to all calls general and above. K calls were conditional and WN novice, that was days when the number in your call also was the area of your address. Now days who knows what a call means.

I been licensed since 1961, I started out as a conditional, was in Germany at the time, so was issued K3VKY, later when I was back in the states, retook the general test at the FCC ofice in Baltimore, which they wanted to issue me a new W call, it took alot of fenagleing to keep my old call. when I passed extra also kept my old call.

Fred Villiard K3VKY
 
Dec 28, 2009
397
Macgregor M25 trailer
I got off track a bit on the other post, I work for Amphenol in the high speed area, also run one of the test labs, for testing cables and connectors, from dc to 60 GHz.

For the average person, the good crimped UHF connectors, done with the proper tools and well weather sealed afterward, is the best bet. There are several good manufactures of them AMP, Amphenol, Molex and alot of house names.

To solder the braid on a PL-259 properly, you need alot of heat quickly, you can use a weller 250 wat gun or 150 to 200 watt iron, or best a heavy set of resistance tweesers. None of them work well out in the wind and with all of that heat if you stay too long the heat will transfer to the dielectric and damage it.

For the PL-259 to work properly you need good contact with at bair minimum of 75% good contact with the braid, most of the no solder or crimp connectors have 2% or less contact to begin with and it gets worse as time goes along.

For coax I'd lean to the LMR types with the bonded foil, because if the outer sheath gets damaged it won't wick water into the dieletric cauusing loss. RG 58, 8X, 8, UG-213 and 9913 & 14 do not have bonded fiol, if the jacket gets damaged if will wick water like a hose.

The LMR coaxes are a little bit of a pain because they are some what stiffer but once they are terminated and run they will outlast the other ones at least three to one.

I have about a 150 ft piece of 9913 that was on one of my amateur antennas less than a year and I couldn't get out, the swr was 1.82 not to bad, a little high, brought home a network anylizer from work and it looked horriable. I dropped the antenna, took the coax off hooked a dummy load and watmeter to it and put 100 wats at 30 mHz and got no reading on the watmeter, had to increase the power to 500 watts in to get less than 10 wats out, real low loss. Because of the high loss the return loss was within reason because it saw the same loss as the signal going the other way.

Checking the cable to find out, cut the connector off of one end and water started to run out, could see no signs of leakage from the connector, checking the cable, I found a spot about fifteen feet down from the antenna connecton where somithing had chewed thru jacket.probally a squirrel. that left the water in causing the loss.

Fred Villiard K3VKY