VC17m question

[sinnettc]

Since the weather's still crummy and we don't much like sailing in the cold & rain I think I'm going to go ahead and give Verboten a nice new coat of VC17 before we launch. The last time I painted a bottom was 30+ years ago on Dad's old Bristol 24. We used the good old red gooey stuff which was way different than today's paints. I'd appreciate some advice . . .

First, what do I need in the way of respirator & other protection? I'll be working outdoors so ventilation's not a problem. I do, however, want to keep the few brain cells I have left. Do I need one of $40-60 respirators with the osmotic inserts (or whatever they are?) Rubber gloves are a given but what about a tyvek suit?

Also, the interlux calculator suggests 3 quarts for a Capri 22 (24' LOA x 8' width). Since I've got about 90-95% coverage from the prior coat, with bare spots on leading edge of bow & a few others, is 2 quarts more likely to be enough?

Final question (for now) -- I'm looking for suggestions on how to paint behind the pads (see picture below). I don't have access to a sling or yard with a travel-lift so it's got to be done on the trailer. I do have what appears to be an untested support made out of a 2x4 with a padded cross beam (there's bare hull behind at least one of the pads). Not sure I trust it but then the boat only weighs 2500 lbs so maybe it's ok if placed right next to the trailer pad I'm lowering? Slinging from the tree in the background is out of the question as the tree is now a stump.

Thoughts/comments appreciated.

 

[sailingdog]

The full face respirator mask is the way to go IMHO. It is far more protective and far more comfortable than the half masks with goggles. About $120 for the 3m 6000 series full face mask, but I've owned one of the ones I have for six years... so it is a long-term investment.

The tyvek suit is a good idea, but get the one with a hood...between it and the full face mask respirator, you're covered almost completely.

As for the pads..that's a bit tough, since yours is a keel boat.

 

[Rob Hessenius]

I have used VC-17 for years and have never felt that I needed a respirater to apply the paint. I wear old clothes and gloves just to not get stained by the paint. I usue less than 2 quarts on a 25 footer. Just use a 2X4 as a brace and lower the pad and roll the spot. VC-17 dries in a New York minute. If you miss the spots, its not the end of the world.

 

[higgs]

i have used 17 for 20 + years and ditto Rob H. from Oshkosh.

 

[Roger Long]

I'm currently using VC-17M and have never felt the need for a respirator either.

Hints:

Try to have a protected place to mix in the copper. It is very light and flies around in the air with the slightest puff of wind or body motion. Wear latex gloves and dust mask.

The stuff flash dries. Don't try to spray it. Skinning and drying in the roller pan is a problem. I punch holes with a large nail in the top of the can and pour just enough into the pan for a couple of roller loads. You can then shake the can around a bit to help keep the copper mixed. When you use up the first can, put the copper from the second into that can and pour the paint on top. That helps keep it under control while mixing.

It dries fast enough on the hull that you have to be careful about re-rolling as the roller may lift the partially dried paint off the hull. If you have a thin spot, come back and fix it later and be sure the roller is quite wet with paint.

I usually put on two coats. Any left over, I put on the forward half and keel which are most critical to speed. No sanding or other prep in between. I do it all at once. By the time you reach the end, the other end will be dry.

For prep, I use one of those sanding blocks with a handle and clamps at each end with a sheet of Scotchbrite pad and lots of water to keep flushing the hull and cleaning the pad. Wash the pad into a 5 gallon bucket so you can at least say you are recovering the toxic water. I don't know what you do with it then, one reason why we'll only have copper paint for another 3 - 5 years.

I don't know how to handle your trailer launch problem if you launch yourself. With a travel lift launch, the paint dries fast enough that you can quickly roll the paint after they lift the boat and it will be dry by the time it's in the water. If your keel is on a weight bearing member, it looks like you could carefully screw each jack down one at a time and slip the roller or a brush in. Tie the other side down to the trailer or prop up with a 4 x 4 and wedges.

Don't paint more than a few days before launch.

 

[DannyS]

Last year was my first time applying VC17 and here's what worked for me after doing some online research. I agree about using a respirator when mixing the copper with the paint body, but after that, I didn't feel the need. That's not to say that you shouldn't, it was just my feeling. I used an extra large pancake syrup bottle, the type with a flip top that you squeeze to get the syrup out, to mix and apply the paint directly to the roller. This keeps the paint liquid until you put it on the boat rather than letting it dry in a pan. It's easy to keep the copper suspended with a quick shake while your painting. It takes a little more time this way because I never saturated the roller to the point of it dripping off but the stuff goes a long way. I painted my 35 footer with only 2 quarts, one per side. I had no idea it would go that far and bought 4 quarts last year. Now I have enough to paint this year.
As for the pads, it look from the photo that you may have just enough room to drop the pads one at a time to get a roller or brush in there, could you borrow a jack stand from someone to prop the boat up, it would take less than an hour.

 

[alexco38]

Painting VC17

Do it in colder no wind day, the paint will go further. I use 3 qtr for a 30foot boat for 2 complete coats and whatever left just more at the bow and leading edge of the keel and rudder. The paint usually last 2 years and I race. Get a color that's very different from the base cost so you can see where it worn out. The marine store people usually tell you to paint every year. I ignore their advise for obvious $$$ reason.

Another trick is keep the paint in the can after mixing. Don't dump it in the paint tray. This stuff evopulate extremely fast. pour out a little at a time just enough to wet the roller. Don't forget to get the shorter roller for very smooth surface. Get it from the marine store. Shorter roller because the curve surface of the boat. Smooth roller because it suck up less paint.

Borrow or rent a jack stand. Usually the pad is not used to support the weight of the boat. The keel pad is. The side pad is to prevent the boat from tipping over. If you use a jack stand make sure you tie a chain to the other side. Your anchor chain should be fine.

 

[William12213]

If you cover your tray with tin foil it will help to slow the evaporation of the VC17. Like someone said...do it on a cool cloudy day with no wind and you will be fine. I do like the syrup bottle idea even for no more than squeezing a little in the tray at a time. I don't use a respirator either other than for mixing the copper in. work fast and I add a couple extra layers to the leading edges of the keel if I have anything left.

It sure is great to be having these topics again....it means it is almost time to get back in the water!!!

 

[Richard Bryer]

Re: Painting VC17

A lot of very good info here- not much I can add other than I think you should not need more than 2 cans ( It seems to me there is less in the cans each year I buy them- any one else notice this?) I mix the last can I will use 1/2 can at a time- you can store the unmixed product easily until next year. If you mix it comes out a different colour. When you mix be sure and stay up wind of your mixing cans so the powdered copper does not blow back. I (along with a hundred plus other boat owners in our club)apply VC17 each year with no respirator or tyvek suits. Most of us seem to have survived ok. Another trick to keep your tray from evaporating to fast is to tape a piece of cardboard over it that flips up so you can roll the roller in the paint. Cooler weather is indeed better

 

[sinnettc]

Thanks all, lots of good information here. I'm headed down to the chandlery to pick up a couple cans tomorrow. Probably get everything else ship shape and paint later before we (hopefully) launch next weekend.

 

[agaliha]

This thread covers it well. The only thing I can add is that you CAN spray VC17m very successfully with an airless sprayer. You get a PERFECTLY smooth bottom with no roller "humps." It's fast! VC17 is a great product here in fresh water.
Agaliha