I want to varnish interior teak that has previously been oiled. What surface preparation is recommeded to prepare the wood for varnish. Obviously I will sand lightly, but is something more aggressive called for to remove old oil remenants. It has been 3=4 years since oil was applied to the teak.
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Les Murray
Use TeKa A & B
I did the same thing to some hatch boards that I was refinishing. The interior side was oiled. I used a two part teak bleach, TeKa A&B. Very caustic but very good. You wet down the boards, spread out the A, wait a few minutes, then scrub lightly with a 3M pad. The teak will turn very dark, almost black. After the A, you spread the B on until the wood returns to the original blond color. Be generous and watch for bleed back (were spots turn dark again). After the B, rinse well with running water and let dry for at least 24 hours. This will raise the grain so some hard sanding will be necessary. Once sanded down your ready for varnishing. I recommend a Tyvek or painters suit and rubber gloves. Not good on the clothes or skin. Enjoy, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
I did the same thing to some hatch boards that I was refinishing. The interior side was oiled. I used a two part teak bleach, TeKa A&B. Very caustic but very good. You wet down the boards, spread out the A, wait a few minutes, then scrub lightly with a 3M pad. The teak will turn very dark, almost black. After the A, you spread the B on until the wood returns to the original blond color. Be generous and watch for bleed back (were spots turn dark again). After the B, rinse well with running water and let dry for at least 24 hours. This will raise the grain so some hard sanding will be necessary. Once sanded down your ready for varnishing. I recommend a Tyvek or painters suit and rubber gloves. Not good on the clothes or skin. Enjoy, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
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Larry
Interior teak
Leonard; Since you're doing interior wood, it wouldn't be wise to use anything that needs lots of running water to rinse it. I did mine by sponging on a strong solution; a cup of Wisk in a gallon of the hottest water you can stand thru rubber gloves. Get all the cushions and carpet out of the way first, scrub twice with the solution, let dry, sand, apply three coats satin on the bulkheads and three coats high-gloss on the trim, especially in/near the galley. Larry W.
Leonard; Since you're doing interior wood, it wouldn't be wise to use anything that needs lots of running water to rinse it. I did mine by sponging on a strong solution; a cup of Wisk in a gallon of the hottest water you can stand thru rubber gloves. Get all the cushions and carpet out of the way first, scrub twice with the solution, let dry, sand, apply three coats satin on the bulkheads and three coats high-gloss on the trim, especially in/near the galley. Larry W.
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LaDonna Bubak - Catalina Owners
Not necessary
Unless you don't like the color the oil adds to the wood, it's not technically necessary to prep it other than sanding. It certainly wouldn't *hurt* to wash it down but you're just going to have to sand it anyway. I would test varnish an inconspicuous spot (inside a cabinet, behind a cushion) to see if you like the color it turns with the oil. It *may* be too dark depending on how much it was oiled in it's past life. Now if that's the case, the best way IMHO is to use Teaka A&B as Les suggested. You don't say what kind of boat you have but you'll want to take out as much of the interior anyway cuz you don't want to get it dusty or varnishy. I removed as much wood as I could but there was a lot that I could remove (compression post anyone?) so I did it in the boat with great results. You have to be very careful with the water - I used a bucket & a sponge to thoroughly rinse it. And Les was right about how caustic that stuff is. You'll need heavy duty gloves, not the wimpy yellow dishwashing ones. I would highly recommend goggles too. I splashed a tiny drop on my face and it burned like acid (which is exactly what it is). I don't know what would have happened if it had splashed in my eye! WEAR GOGGLES!!! LaDonna
Unless you don't like the color the oil adds to the wood, it's not technically necessary to prep it other than sanding. It certainly wouldn't *hurt* to wash it down but you're just going to have to sand it anyway. I would test varnish an inconspicuous spot (inside a cabinet, behind a cushion) to see if you like the color it turns with the oil. It *may* be too dark depending on how much it was oiled in it's past life. Now if that's the case, the best way IMHO is to use Teaka A&B as Les suggested. You don't say what kind of boat you have but you'll want to take out as much of the interior anyway cuz you don't want to get it dusty or varnishy. I removed as much wood as I could but there was a lot that I could remove (compression post anyone?) so I did it in the boat with great results. You have to be very careful with the water - I used a bucket & a sponge to thoroughly rinse it. And Les was right about how caustic that stuff is. You'll need heavy duty gloves, not the wimpy yellow dishwashing ones. I would highly recommend goggles too. I splashed a tiny drop on my face and it burned like acid (which is exactly what it is). I don't know what would have happened if it had splashed in my eye! WEAR GOGGLES!!! LaDonna
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Bill Saint
Sea Fin
I just finished using Sea Fin (From Daly's 800 735-7019) for the first time on my interior. It is the same used by Hunter on new boats. Easy to use, just wipe on and it absorbs into the teak quickly - I didn't sand or prep, but my interior was in fairly good shape, just dried out and faded, to begin with. Turned out great, I would highly recommend.
I just finished using Sea Fin (From Daly's 800 735-7019) for the first time on my interior. It is the same used by Hunter on new boats. Easy to use, just wipe on and it absorbs into the teak quickly - I didn't sand or prep, but my interior was in fairly good shape, just dried out and faded, to begin with. Turned out great, I would highly recommend.
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mark v.
another way to go
teka is a great product and it gets the job done as noted earlier but as also noted its very caustic.not sure what type of varnish your going to use but imho epifanes is a good lite colored varnish and if offset with satin varnish on the trim peices is really looks cool [imho].anyways t.s.p. crystals mixed into HOT water for cleaning followed with oaxolic acid crystals, again mixed with HOT water for bleaching works very well for teak prepping prior to varnishing.both products need to be applied with the proper protection-good rubber gloves,eyewear and a large sponge. the cost is much less than teka also. this process works very well and teka is still the giant gorilla when it comes to doing teak prep, though i can't imagine doing bulkheads with it as you will really need to have running water to keep the wet enough [again imho] :]
teka is a great product and it gets the job done as noted earlier but as also noted its very caustic.not sure what type of varnish your going to use but imho epifanes is a good lite colored varnish and if offset with satin varnish on the trim peices is really looks cool [imho].anyways t.s.p. crystals mixed into HOT water for cleaning followed with oaxolic acid crystals, again mixed with HOT water for bleaching works very well for teak prepping prior to varnishing.both products need to be applied with the proper protection-good rubber gloves,eyewear and a large sponge. the cost is much less than teka also. this process works very well and teka is still the giant gorilla when it comes to doing teak prep, though i can't imagine doing bulkheads with it as you will really need to have running water to keep the wet enough [again imho] :]
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