Does anyone have a relatively easy and safe way to remove varnish from the brightwork and more importantly from the fiberglass? Thanks very much.
- Status
Heat
I used a heat gun to remove old varnish. Do not use a metal scraper. I sharpen thin pieces of oak and maple I have. I also sharpen paint paddles and scrape with those. You will need to sharpen them often. They don't gouge the teak like metal scrapers do. Don't need much heat. Stick around 30 minutes after all done removing varnish for the day so there are no fires. I have no idea how to remove varnish from gelcoat. I am removing paint from my topsides using a standard hardware paint remover and it is not hurting the gelcoat at all so I would think a paint remover would work fine. I would tape off around the varnish if you can, so as not to apply paint remover where it isn't necessary. After the stripper is on a few minutes, lightly scrub it off with fine steel (brass) wool. Neutralize per the stripper instructions and then wash the area real good with soap and water so all the rusty pieces are gone. I don't know how the stripper will react to brass wool, but brass wool would be much better if possible. Gelcoat is very chemical resistant.
I used a heat gun to remove old varnish. Do not use a metal scraper. I sharpen thin pieces of oak and maple I have. I also sharpen paint paddles and scrape with those. You will need to sharpen them often. They don't gouge the teak like metal scrapers do. Don't need much heat. Stick around 30 minutes after all done removing varnish for the day so there are no fires. I have no idea how to remove varnish from gelcoat. I am removing paint from my topsides using a standard hardware paint remover and it is not hurting the gelcoat at all so I would think a paint remover would work fine. I would tape off around the varnish if you can, so as not to apply paint remover where it isn't necessary. After the stripper is on a few minutes, lightly scrub it off with fine steel (brass) wool. Neutralize per the stripper instructions and then wash the area real good with soap and water so all the rusty pieces are gone. I don't know how the stripper will react to brass wool, but brass wool would be much better if possible. Gelcoat is very chemical resistant.
Try Klean Strip
I am stripping some teak right now. West marine has a stripper that can be used around fiberglass it is Klean-Strip fiberglass paint remover. Varnish comes up fairly well but that Cetol is hard to remove. I may try the heat gun.
I am stripping some teak right now. West marine has a stripper that can be used around fiberglass it is Klean-Strip fiberglass paint remover. Varnish comes up fairly well but that Cetol is hard to remove. I may try the heat gun.
Been there, done that
I recently used the soy stripper from Franmar Chemical and plan on using it for the interior cabin teak that has layers of varnish. It works great, no smell and very safe for gel coat etc. Also doesn't need to be a particular temperature outside for it to work effectively. Check them out at www.franmar.com.
I recently used the soy stripper from Franmar Chemical and plan on using it for the interior cabin teak that has layers of varnish. It works great, no smell and very safe for gel coat etc. Also doesn't need to be a particular temperature outside for it to work effectively. Check them out at www.franmar.com.
More heat
We're in the process now, and heat is the answer -- at least for larger areas. I used a metal scraper, very carefully, but like the idea of using wood instead. We have lots of little crevices and find a small blunt metal tool, like the end of the small file we carry on board, will work on that. We use a standard hardware store heat gun, and heat the blade of whatever tool we are using. S.
We're in the process now, and heat is the answer -- at least for larger areas. I used a metal scraper, very carefully, but like the idea of using wood instead. We have lots of little crevices and find a small blunt metal tool, like the end of the small file we carry on board, will work on that. We use a standard hardware store heat gun, and heat the blade of whatever tool we are using. S.
I was putting varnish on teak today
that I had scraped down with a long sharp razor blade (carpet cutter's blade) to remove the yellowed varnish and oiled. To get dried varnish off the decks or gelcoat try all of the suggestions posted here or just look the other way for a few years and it will eventually peel off from exposure to the elements. I may try the soy stripper mentioned here if the mis-placed varnish spots on my decks bother me too much and I have the time.
that I had scraped down with a long sharp razor blade (carpet cutter's blade) to remove the yellowed varnish and oiled. To get dried varnish off the decks or gelcoat try all of the suggestions posted here or just look the other way for a few years and it will eventually peel off from exposure to the elements. I may try the soy stripper mentioned here if the mis-placed varnish spots on my decks bother me too much and I have the time.
Teak..
One of the best selling points on a used boat is gorgous woodwork...ME??...I look for a lack of wood on the outside of my boats.Face it folks...WOOD IS WORK=woodwork.There are volumes of bopoks written on this subject but only way to get good at it is with work..meaning=EXpierience..Good Luck and Fair Winds>>>> David
One of the best selling points on a used boat is gorgous woodwork...ME??...I look for a lack of wood on the outside of my boats.Face it folks...WOOD IS WORK=woodwork.There are volumes of bopoks written on this subject but only way to get good at it is with work..meaning=EXpierience..Good Luck and Fair Winds>>>> David
Lessen to Dan and Sanders
A heat gun is much-much better way to remove varnish than stripper. I stopped at Northern tool supply yesterday on the way to the boat and picked up there' heat gun for $16.00. An hour later I had half of the boat done. Heat guns do a nice clean job. I will never use stripper again. I used a paint scraper that you pull to remove the varnish but Dans idea about wood sounds good too. By the way wear gloves, I burned my self by not paying attention. And no discoloration of the gelcoat but I bet it would burn it if you are not careful. Rodger
A heat gun is much-much better way to remove varnish than stripper. I stopped at Northern tool supply yesterday on the way to the boat and picked up there' heat gun for $16.00. An hour later I had half of the boat done. Heat guns do a nice clean job. I will never use stripper again. I used a paint scraper that you pull to remove the varnish but Dans idea about wood sounds good too. By the way wear gloves, I burned my self by not paying attention. And no discoloration of the gelcoat but I bet it would burn it if you are not careful. Rodger
I have a Milwaukee brand heat gun and it
is formidable. I can solder with it. It does a good job of softening varnish, paint, floor tile, roofing shingles and drying wet places but I have to be careful to not start a fire. Edited: to change head to heat and reduce the cries of derision.
is formidable. I can solder with it. It does a good job of softening varnish, paint, floor tile, roofing shingles and drying wet places but I have to be careful to not start a fire. Edited: to change head to heat and reduce the cries of derision.
I use a
product called Star10(www.starten.com). It's a gel stripper, also available in a liquid. After using it to completely strip the bottom of my boat several years ago, I can't forsee ever sanding or scraping paint, varnish, even sikkens again. I've used it on furniture, and even stripped the plastic dash components of a show car with it. This stuff works!
product called Star10(www.starten.com). It's a gel stripper, also available in a liquid. After using it to completely strip the bottom of my boat several years ago, I can't forsee ever sanding or scraping paint, varnish, even sikkens again. I've used it on furniture, and even stripped the plastic dash components of a show car with it. This stuff works!
- Status