The Yanmar website is indecipherable to me, so maybe you guys can help. I've heard that once an 2GM20F 18hp has a valve job at 200 hours, none is needed again until 5,000 hours. That seems excessive, though I'm happy to comply. Eh?
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The Yanmar website is indecipherable to me, so maybe you guys can help. I've heard that once an 2GM20F 18hp has a valve job at 200 hours, none is needed again until 5,000 hours. That seems excessive, though I'm happy to comply. Eh?
Valve Job?
Are you perhaps refering to a "Valve Adjustment Job"? I can't believe that they recommend a valve grind after only 200 hours, but valve clearance should be adjusted about then. Fair winds Dave
Are you perhaps refering to a "Valve Adjustment Job"? I can't believe that they recommend a valve grind after only 200 hours, but valve clearance should be adjusted about then. Fair winds Dave
Valve Job?
Are you perhaps refering to a "Valve Adjustment Job"? I can't believe that they recommend a valve grind after only 200 hours, but valve clearance should be adjusted about then. Fair winds Dave
Are you perhaps refering to a "Valve Adjustment Job"? I can't believe that they recommend a valve grind after only 200 hours, but valve clearance should be adjusted about then. Fair winds Dave
Bill
From what I understand, Yanmar recommends that for most of their smaller engines the valves should be adjusted at 50 hours and then again every 1500-2000 hours. Ck with a certified yanmar machanic or call Yanmar.
From what I understand, Yanmar recommends that for most of their smaller engines the valves should be adjusted at 50 hours and then again every 1500-2000 hours. Ck with a certified yanmar machanic or call Yanmar.
Bill
From what I understand, Yanmar recommends that for most of their smaller engines the valves should be adjusted at 50 hours and then again every 1500-2000 hours. Ck with a certified yanmar machanic or call Yanmar.
From what I understand, Yanmar recommends that for most of their smaller engines the valves should be adjusted at 50 hours and then again every 1500-2000 hours. Ck with a certified yanmar machanic or call Yanmar.
Valve Job
Me thinks you have confused the valve adjustment, with valve job. A valve adjustment is adjusting the clearance between the rocker arm, and the valve. This is a fairly simple operation, and the 200 hours for the first one sounds about right. I would recommend this procedure be at least checked at around 1000 hours max. after the initial adjustment. A valve job normally means to pull the head, and grind/reseat the valves. As far as I know, there is no recommended time to do this, just as needed. BUT, if you do not adjust the valve clearance, then you may very well be doing a valve job much sooner.
Me thinks you have confused the valve adjustment, with valve job. A valve adjustment is adjusting the clearance between the rocker arm, and the valve. This is a fairly simple operation, and the 200 hours for the first one sounds about right. I would recommend this procedure be at least checked at around 1000 hours max. after the initial adjustment. A valve job normally means to pull the head, and grind/reseat the valves. As far as I know, there is no recommended time to do this, just as needed. BUT, if you do not adjust the valve clearance, then you may very well be doing a valve job much sooner.
Valve Job
Me thinks you have confused the valve adjustment, with valve job. A valve adjustment is adjusting the clearance between the rocker arm, and the valve. This is a fairly simple operation, and the 200 hours for the first one sounds about right. I would recommend this procedure be at least checked at around 1000 hours max. after the initial adjustment. A valve job normally means to pull the head, and grind/reseat the valves. As far as I know, there is no recommended time to do this, just as needed. BUT, if you do not adjust the valve clearance, then you may very well be doing a valve job much sooner.
Me thinks you have confused the valve adjustment, with valve job. A valve adjustment is adjusting the clearance between the rocker arm, and the valve. This is a fairly simple operation, and the 200 hours for the first one sounds about right. I would recommend this procedure be at least checked at around 1000 hours max. after the initial adjustment. A valve job normally means to pull the head, and grind/reseat the valves. As far as I know, there is no recommended time to do this, just as needed. BUT, if you do not adjust the valve clearance, then you may very well be doing a valve job much sooner.
Seloc - Chilton Manual
Order a Seloc -Chilton Marine Manual for the Yanmar Inboards; Mine covers 1975-98 QM, GM/HM, 4JH, and 4jh2 series engines and transmisions. Depending on access to the top of the engine and to the starter motor, the process isn't too difficult. It's easiest on th 2GM20F to discconnect the starter cables and use a couple of ratchet wrench extensions and a socket wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the transmission housing. Once the starter motor is out of the way, the timing marks are easily seen. Forget trying to see the corresponding marks from the aft end of the transmission; unless you know exactly what the marks onthe flywheel look like, it won't be obvious what you're seeing there anyway. You need a set of metric crescent/box wrenches, a short handle screw driver plus a 0.2mm (0.0079") feeler gauge to set the valve lash. Get a new valve cover gasket and just a tiny bit of gasket adhesive to hold the new one in place in the valve cover when you put it back together.
Order a Seloc -Chilton Marine Manual for the Yanmar Inboards; Mine covers 1975-98 QM, GM/HM, 4JH, and 4jh2 series engines and transmisions. Depending on access to the top of the engine and to the starter motor, the process isn't too difficult. It's easiest on th 2GM20F to discconnect the starter cables and use a couple of ratchet wrench extensions and a socket wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the transmission housing. Once the starter motor is out of the way, the timing marks are easily seen. Forget trying to see the corresponding marks from the aft end of the transmission; unless you know exactly what the marks onthe flywheel look like, it won't be obvious what you're seeing there anyway. You need a set of metric crescent/box wrenches, a short handle screw driver plus a 0.2mm (0.0079") feeler gauge to set the valve lash. Get a new valve cover gasket and just a tiny bit of gasket adhesive to hold the new one in place in the valve cover when you put it back together.
Seloc - Chilton Manual
Order a Seloc -Chilton Marine Manual for the Yanmar Inboards; Mine covers 1975-98 QM, GM/HM, 4JH, and 4jh2 series engines and transmisions. Depending on access to the top of the engine and to the starter motor, the process isn't too difficult. It's easiest on th 2GM20F to discconnect the starter cables and use a couple of ratchet wrench extensions and a socket wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the transmission housing. Once the starter motor is out of the way, the timing marks are easily seen. Forget trying to see the corresponding marks from the aft end of the transmission; unless you know exactly what the marks onthe flywheel look like, it won't be obvious what you're seeing there anyway. You need a set of metric crescent/box wrenches, a short handle screw driver plus a 0.2mm (0.0079") feeler gauge to set the valve lash. Get a new valve cover gasket and just a tiny bit of gasket adhesive to hold the new one in place in the valve cover when you put it back together.
Order a Seloc -Chilton Marine Manual for the Yanmar Inboards; Mine covers 1975-98 QM, GM/HM, 4JH, and 4jh2 series engines and transmisions. Depending on access to the top of the engine and to the starter motor, the process isn't too difficult. It's easiest on th 2GM20F to discconnect the starter cables and use a couple of ratchet wrench extensions and a socket wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the starter to the transmission housing. Once the starter motor is out of the way, the timing marks are easily seen. Forget trying to see the corresponding marks from the aft end of the transmission; unless you know exactly what the marks onthe flywheel look like, it won't be obvious what you're seeing there anyway. You need a set of metric crescent/box wrenches, a short handle screw driver plus a 0.2mm (0.0079") feeler gauge to set the valve lash. Get a new valve cover gasket and just a tiny bit of gasket adhesive to hold the new one in place in the valve cover when you put it back together.
I would not recomend adjusting if not experienced.
A lot of engine manufacturers recommend an early life adjustment or check of the clearances. Valve clearance adjustments are easy if you have experience. If not, you can make a mess of it and be worse off. If set too loose, you may get a rattle with a worn cam and valve train. If set too tight, you may end up inviting a burnt valve which is the very thing you are trying to avoid. Pay someone an hours worth to do the settings for you. You can watch and learn. Merry Xmas
A lot of engine manufacturers recommend an early life adjustment or check of the clearances. Valve clearance adjustments are easy if you have experience. If not, you can make a mess of it and be worse off. If set too loose, you may get a rattle with a worn cam and valve train. If set too tight, you may end up inviting a burnt valve which is the very thing you are trying to avoid. Pay someone an hours worth to do the settings for you. You can watch and learn. Merry Xmas
I would not recomend adjusting if not experienced.
A lot of engine manufacturers recommend an early life adjustment or check of the clearances. Valve clearance adjustments are easy if you have experience. If not, you can make a mess of it and be worse off. If set too loose, you may get a rattle with a worn cam and valve train. If set too tight, you may end up inviting a burnt valve which is the very thing you are trying to avoid. Pay someone an hours worth to do the settings for you. You can watch and learn. Merry Xmas
A lot of engine manufacturers recommend an early life adjustment or check of the clearances. Valve clearance adjustments are easy if you have experience. If not, you can make a mess of it and be worse off. If set too loose, you may get a rattle with a worn cam and valve train. If set too tight, you may end up inviting a burnt valve which is the very thing you are trying to avoid. Pay someone an hours worth to do the settings for you. You can watch and learn. Merry Xmas
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