V-berth redo

[chinny]

I'm desperately looking for some information on replacements for the old carpet installed on the sedewalls of the v berth and quarterberth of my '86 Hunter 34.
I had seen an earlier post about using pine beadboard. It looked fantastic. I'm curious about using glue to install it and what type of a job am I getting into by pulling out the old, moldy carpet.
Any ideas??

Christian

 

[Tim R.]

I have no direct experience with this boat so some photos would be helpful. As for the pine beadboard I would probably go with some type of hardwood veneer plywood that would likely match the other wood in your cabin.

Ripping out the carpet is a great idea. I could never figure out why people do this. It is just a trap for moisture, mildew and odors. They should have at least made it removable so it can be easily cleaned.

I would also try to stay away from gluing as that can be a real pain if you ever need to repair or replace. Mechanically attach it using counter sunk screws covered with bungs to match the veneer. Trimming it out to match the other trim in your boat would make this look factory and probably increase the resale value. Pine beadboard will not.

 

[Sailm8]

We are currently rehabbing for future sale a Cal 27. We have removed all of the old material covering the walls and replacing it with new headliner. WE are using an indoor outdoor carpet glue since we did not want to use contact cement as it sets too quick. Do a google search for headliner. Choose a material that is mold and mildew proof. I would have liked to do wood but don't want to spend the $$$ on boat that is for sale.
Fairly easy job.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Isn't pine a relatively soft wood? Beadboard is nice, and I think nautical, but stuff moves around inside boats. You'd get a very "distressed" look to the wood pretty quickly.

 

[SeaRanch]

I had a 1987 H31, same basic boat as your 34.
Would suggest you stay with carpet.
Any fiberglass hull is built to withstand a certain amount of "flex". My H31, had quite a bit of "flex". Press on the hull where you want to change carpet to see what "flex" in built into your hull.
Solid wood would not work too well when the figerglass needs to flex to absorb the motion of the vessel.

Bill

 

[Ross]

I made cushions of carpet padding and polyester double knit fabric A little velcro holds them in place and I can pull them down when I wish.

 

[BobT]

A thin T&G douglas Fir would be gorgeous and have plenty of flex or sideslip in a short length application like a v-berth. It would, however be an angle scriber's ordeal to cut tight so count on a second layer of edge trim to conceal the butts unless you have inexhaustable patience, a super sharp block plane, or a big disc sander on board!

 

[Dan Johnson]

Chinny...

if my memory serves, Good Olde Boat magazine in the recent past had an article about this sort of replacement. Ribs were added and thin horizontal cedar "planks" were layered on over the ribs. There also has been articles in other magazines of a similar nature.

Also, track down Paul Esterle's website (captnpauley.com I think) and you'll find a lot of How-To-Do articles and videos on many common boat renovations.

 

[Ross]

Re: Chinny...

If you want a super sharp block plane then you must get out your whetstone and get to work. The most dfficult part of tis job will involve finding good wood and dressing it to the sizes you need. I found some doug fir today about fifty rings per inch quarter sawn. In a 2x4 about 3 feet long. Had been used for framing in an old house. I gave it to a model maker.

 

[chinny]

Thanks everyone for the replies. It's very helpful. I hadn't really thought about too much flex being a problem. Now you really have me thinking. I'm just concerned about wet, moldy carpet in a confined place. Definitely not a good combination.

This site never lets me down. You ask smart people a question and you get alot of well thought out, intelligent answers.

Thanks again!