I am looking at a 1997 Hunter 26. It has a 9.9 engine with the forward and reverse control in the front. My question is, how do you manuver that boat with the motor sitting so low that you lose all visibiity? I would be using a very busy marina requiring a lot of jockeying around before you can get to the ramp/dock. I know I can extend the throttle but how do you go about extending the foward /reverse controls.
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Add a remote
I don't know how you do it either, other than adding a remote. I got lucky, 4 days after I brought our, new to us, boat home the 9.9 Honda was stolen off the back of the boat. These guys were pros, they had wrenches and because I backed the boat to the end of the driveway, due to the drop off, the motor was 7 feet off the ground. Anyway, the insurance company and I bought a new motor with a remote and it works great.
Depending on the motor, you may be able to buy a remote for it.
I don't know how you do it either, other than adding a remote. I got lucky, 4 days after I brought our, new to us, boat home the 9.9 Honda was stolen off the back of the boat. These guys were pros, they had wrenches and because I backed the boat to the end of the driveway, due to the drop off, the motor was 7 feet off the ground. Anyway, the insurance company and I bought a new motor with a remote and it works great.
Depending on the motor, you may be able to buy a remote for it.
Attachments
You are right docking with your head in the well is not fun. Here's some options to fix the problem.
http://h260.com/throttle/throttle.html
Also, you can spend $30 to tie the rudder and engine together
http://h260.com/ezsteer/ezsteer.html
More H26/260 stuff at: http://h260.com
http://h260.com/throttle/throttle.html
Also, you can spend $30 to tie the rudder and engine together
http://h260.com/ezsteer/ezsteer.html
More H26/260 stuff at: http://h260.com
It is definitely not fun, that's for sure. I dock in a small boat club on a river that often has a 1-2 knot current. I don't have remote controls or my rudder tied to my motor.
When I'm docking, or leaving, I leave the rudder up and out of the water and motor strictly with the outboard. I have my left foot down in the well with the motor, and with my 5' 9" height I'm able to see enough to maneuver properly. I thought about remote controls, but my docking and leaving time is so minimal versus sailing time the clutter of extra controls isn't worth it to me.
When I'm docking, or leaving, I leave the rudder up and out of the water and motor strictly with the outboard. I have my left foot down in the well with the motor, and with my 5' 9" height I'm able to see enough to maneuver properly. I thought about remote controls, but my docking and leaving time is so minimal versus sailing time the clutter of extra controls isn't worth it to me.
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First of all do yourself a favor and get a remote. The cost is so worth it (and it isn't that much). It makes all the difference in the world. Combine that with connecting the motor and the rudder. I promise you you will be happy -- or at least as happier.
controls
When I saw this article that appeared in Sail magazine September of 2009, I saw a remedy to a problem that has plauged me since I bought the boat.
Finally a way to do forward/reverse/neutral without bending over.
I have adapted what he did and used much of the same ideas. I used the end of a old lifeline. It had a t-bolt with a threaded rod coming out. the threaded part is 1/4-28 left hand. Nothing you can find with match to that EXCEPT a screen door tensioner. Used the aluminum coupling nut and the rod. Bought 1/4-28 Right hand die nut to thread with, only because I had a handle that would work and it was threaded to 1/4-28.
Used aluminum pipe that was already formed for the support. Works great.
The bracket from the lifeline was more like a yoke. I used a SS 1/4-20 bolt and nylon lock nut, 2 nylon washers,one on either side of the shifter. I tried it both ways. Off the side and felt like it was too much stress on the part, over it with the shifter in the middle was better.
I have less than $10 in the whole affair, includes the die nut. I have really used my Dremel Tool in this thing. If you need a source for cheap dremel bits, try www.widgetsupply.com
When I saw this article that appeared in Sail magazine September of 2009, I saw a remedy to a problem that has plauged me since I bought the boat.
Finally a way to do forward/reverse/neutral without bending over.
I have adapted what he did and used much of the same ideas. I used the end of a old lifeline. It had a t-bolt with a threaded rod coming out. the threaded part is 1/4-28 left hand. Nothing you can find with match to that EXCEPT a screen door tensioner. Used the aluminum coupling nut and the rod. Bought 1/4-28 Right hand die nut to thread with, only because I had a handle that would work and it was threaded to 1/4-28.
Used aluminum pipe that was already formed for the support. Works great.
The bracket from the lifeline was more like a yoke. I used a SS 1/4-20 bolt and nylon lock nut, 2 nylon washers,one on either side of the shifter. I tried it both ways. Off the side and felt like it was too much stress on the part, over it with the shifter in the middle was better.
I have less than $10 in the whole affair, includes the die nut. I have really used my Dremel Tool in this thing. If you need a source for cheap dremel bits, try www.widgetsupply.com
Try a Mercury motor - they have the throttle and forward/reverse in the handle. I stand next to the motor in the well -hold the tiller with my left hand and the throttle pointing up in my right hand -Never turn the outboard to steer and only use the handle for forward and reverse - stop with reverse when docked. Been docking this way since 1998 and it is relatively easy.
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