Manny, so you were thinking ...
that the concrete would form a sort of "T" that would fill the hollow space and cap the stringer at the same time? First, I'm not sure why you think the stringer is hollow. Wouldn't it likely be a solid piece of wood that is encased in resin or glass? Second, even if it is hollow, I think that you would have to mix it so thin with water to get it to flow that there would be little strength to it when it cures. Adding water to the mix helps its workability but is murder to the strength. Also there is nothing to prevent the outer edges of the "T" from cracking completely off. It may have a been a worthy idea, but I think there are far better solutions! I've noticed that the people that post on this site seem to take far more interest in the maintenance and repair of their boats than the average sailor! This is a good thing! We've had our boat for 2 and half seasons and she also needed some tender loving care when we brought her home! We fixed the sour head odor by replacing the head and all the hoses! I have not completely solved the bilge odor yet! It's not bad but it is still noticeable. We haven't fixed all leaks yet so between the rain and the packing gland, we constantly have some water in the bilge that makes it hard to eliminate the smell entirely! I haven't replaced the port lights yet (I promise myself this spring) which is one source. I haven't figured out how to gain access to the nuts holding the stanchions in place, so I have been afraid to loosen them up for rebedding (but I'm not sure if I have leaks there or not). We get more rain in our corner of New Jersey statistically than they get in Seattle, so dampness is a constant problem.
that the concrete would form a sort of "T" that would fill the hollow space and cap the stringer at the same time? First, I'm not sure why you think the stringer is hollow. Wouldn't it likely be a solid piece of wood that is encased in resin or glass? Second, even if it is hollow, I think that you would have to mix it so thin with water to get it to flow that there would be little strength to it when it cures. Adding water to the mix helps its workability but is murder to the strength. Also there is nothing to prevent the outer edges of the "T" from cracking completely off. It may have a been a worthy idea, but I think there are far better solutions! I've noticed that the people that post on this site seem to take far more interest in the maintenance and repair of their boats than the average sailor! This is a good thing! We've had our boat for 2 and half seasons and she also needed some tender loving care when we brought her home! We fixed the sour head odor by replacing the head and all the hoses! I have not completely solved the bilge odor yet! It's not bad but it is still noticeable. We haven't fixed all leaks yet so between the rain and the packing gland, we constantly have some water in the bilge that makes it hard to eliminate the smell entirely! I haven't replaced the port lights yet (I promise myself this spring) which is one source. I haven't figured out how to gain access to the nuts holding the stanchions in place, so I have been afraid to loosen them up for rebedding (but I'm not sure if I have leaks there or not). We get more rain in our corner of New Jersey statistically than they get in Seattle, so dampness is a constant problem.
) Scott, some careful measuring will help you locate the stanchion locations from the inside. So many of the production boats come with liners. Once you know the exact location then you can cut a neat hole for access to the fasteners and cover it when you are finished with a neat finished wood panel. Sometimes the measuring is the most difficult part. Bracing a piece of plywood to the over head gives a place to make marks, Finding a reference point near the stern in line with the companion creats a common point. So you measure from the bolt heads to the common point and from the common point to the inside and mark the plywood. It isn't that easy because of the angles involved. But I have made it work.
