A kellet is a weight attached to an anchor line with, say a snap shackle. You lower it part way down your rode with a messenger line. The intent is to reduce the angle at which the rode pulls on the anchor. This would have the effect of increasing scope without creating swing room problems at least in theory. Is anyone using a kellet? What are the practical problems and how successful has it been in your experience? Thanks. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
- Status
Anchor Sentinel or Kellet
An Anchor Sentinel or Kellet is used to keep your boat from wandering at anchor by keeping your rode on the bottom. The scope should be the same as you would normally used in your area. You deploy the Anchor Sentinel after you have set your hook. I haven’t used one, but I heard that it does help a boat from wandering at anchor. See link to vendor info. www.cruisingoutfitters.com/groundtack/sentinel.htm Fair Winds. Clyde
An Anchor Sentinel or Kellet is used to keep your boat from wandering at anchor by keeping your rode on the bottom. The scope should be the same as you would normally used in your area. You deploy the Anchor Sentinel after you have set your hook. I haven’t used one, but I heard that it does help a boat from wandering at anchor. See link to vendor info. www.cruisingoutfitters.com/groundtack/sentinel.htm Fair Winds. Clyde
Sentinel beings
Hello Gary, I thoroughly enjoyed your article on sailing to Barkley Sound in Sail Magazine. Congratulations! I hope we see more. As Isaac Asimov, the prolific science, history and sci-fi writer once said: You must keep sending work out; you must never let a manuscript do nothing but eat its head off in a drawer. You send that work out again and again, while you're working on another one. If you have talent, you will receive some measure of success - but only if you persist. I read long ago about the advantages of a kellet (weighted sentinel) to improve anchor hold. They can also reduce the shock load on the anchor rode and your boat because as the rode straightens out, energy is absorbed by the weight moving through the water. The only disadvantages to using a kellet I know of are: 1. Increased wear on the anchor rode (where the kellet rides). 2. They tend to pull the bow down making it dive through waves. When using a fixed mooring anchor, some sailors will add a floating sentinel to the mooring line to help raise the bow. This is also helpful with a standard anchor in rough water if you have sufficient scope. A related article is on the related link. Happy sails _/), (and Happy New Year!) MArk
Hello Gary, I thoroughly enjoyed your article on sailing to Barkley Sound in Sail Magazine. Congratulations! I hope we see more. As Isaac Asimov, the prolific science, history and sci-fi writer once said: You must keep sending work out; you must never let a manuscript do nothing but eat its head off in a drawer. You send that work out again and again, while you're working on another one. If you have talent, you will receive some measure of success - but only if you persist. I read long ago about the advantages of a kellet (weighted sentinel) to improve anchor hold. They can also reduce the shock load on the anchor rode and your boat because as the rode straightens out, energy is absorbed by the weight moving through the water. The only disadvantages to using a kellet I know of are: 1. Increased wear on the anchor rode (where the kellet rides). 2. They tend to pull the bow down making it dive through waves. When using a fixed mooring anchor, some sailors will add a floating sentinel to the mooring line to help raise the bow. This is also helpful with a standard anchor in rough water if you have sufficient scope. A related article is on the related link. Happy sails _/), (and Happy New Year!) MArk
I use a kellet often. It works best when I find
myself with minimal swinging room (because of many other boats around) in protected anchorages. It does have an effect on the amount of scope used, obviously more is better, but using a Kellet (or other name is a "sentinel") does have a positive effect. They also help tremendously if your rode tends to foul your keel/rudder when there are wind/tide shifts, especially helpful with fin keels. The physics behind how they work is posted in the link below. It helps best in light and moderate conditions, I believe that the stronger the winds, then the tighter the rode and nothing really beats additional scope to keep the angle of the anchor shaft to seabed as small as possible. I was once in a big blow and my rode was "rail" tight and as straight as an arrow, I doubted my kellet had all that much effect as compared to the forces on the rode from my bow roller to the anchor shaft in those high winds. Obviously an all chain rode is superior in keeping the angle of the anchor shaft down, and reduces the need for a Kellet. But I don't have an all chain rode. Also I like the elasticity of nylon rode and its shock absorbing qualities and for my cruising I don't need all chain. (BTW that same storm that I described above had two boats near me with all chain drag...not know the specific reason, but all chain is not a panacea for anchoring problems) Almost anything that is weighted and slid down the rode can be used as a kellet, but the easier it is to clip on an off better. I have heard that plastic coated mushroom anchors with snap shackles work well, I have a purpose built epoxy coated lead "kellet" with snap shackle built in, I think it weights about 18 lbs. I think you need at least 12-15 lbs of kellet weight to make it worth while, obviously the more weight the better. BTW, I don't always use a kellet, only when I think the conditions warrant it, but it can't hurt. The only potential downsides to a kellet is the perceived hassle of putting one on or taking it off, and "potential" chafe on the rode, though that can be mitigated by good design and the kellet almost never ends up in the same place and I see no problems with my rode over the years. You can also go this site http://www.anchorbuddy.co.nz/faq.html It also has lots of info (though these commericial kellets are a bit pricey, there is still lots of good reference info) Here is another simple product that was in Practical Sailor recently http://hsarmor.com/htm/marineproducts.htm . Basically a bag that you can drop weights into. But the site listed below is the best because it even links you to a computer program in which you can change the input variables (Rode length, chain length, depth, Kellet weight etc etc) and get the corresponding effects. Beaware you must Windows Excel to run the program. Good Anchoring
myself with minimal swinging room (because of many other boats around) in protected anchorages. It does have an effect on the amount of scope used, obviously more is better, but using a Kellet (or other name is a "sentinel") does have a positive effect. They also help tremendously if your rode tends to foul your keel/rudder when there are wind/tide shifts, especially helpful with fin keels. The physics behind how they work is posted in the link below. It helps best in light and moderate conditions, I believe that the stronger the winds, then the tighter the rode and nothing really beats additional scope to keep the angle of the anchor shaft to seabed as small as possible. I was once in a big blow and my rode was "rail" tight and as straight as an arrow, I doubted my kellet had all that much effect as compared to the forces on the rode from my bow roller to the anchor shaft in those high winds. Obviously an all chain rode is superior in keeping the angle of the anchor shaft down, and reduces the need for a Kellet. But I don't have an all chain rode. Also I like the elasticity of nylon rode and its shock absorbing qualities and for my cruising I don't need all chain. (BTW that same storm that I described above had two boats near me with all chain drag...not know the specific reason, but all chain is not a panacea for anchoring problems) Almost anything that is weighted and slid down the rode can be used as a kellet, but the easier it is to clip on an off better. I have heard that plastic coated mushroom anchors with snap shackles work well, I have a purpose built epoxy coated lead "kellet" with snap shackle built in, I think it weights about 18 lbs. I think you need at least 12-15 lbs of kellet weight to make it worth while, obviously the more weight the better. BTW, I don't always use a kellet, only when I think the conditions warrant it, but it can't hurt. The only potential downsides to a kellet is the perceived hassle of putting one on or taking it off, and "potential" chafe on the rode, though that can be mitigated by good design and the kellet almost never ends up in the same place and I see no problems with my rode over the years. You can also go this site http://www.anchorbuddy.co.nz/faq.html It also has lots of info (though these commericial kellets are a bit pricey, there is still lots of good reference info) Here is another simple product that was in Practical Sailor recently http://hsarmor.com/htm/marineproducts.htm . Basically a bag that you can drop weights into. But the site listed below is the best because it even links you to a computer program in which you can change the input variables (Rode length, chain length, depth, Kellet weight etc etc) and get the corresponding effects. Beaware you must Windows Excel to run the program. Good Anchoring
Also consider the "anti-kellet"...
I definitely agree with Tom that kellets/sentinels produce the best results in lighter winds and with little surge. I've used them on several boats and, once the wind picks up, their effect must by necessity be lessened - at which point it's the same as one's rode being stretched by the pressure of the wind. I think the cheapest/easiest to live with arrangement of a DIY fashion is 4" ID PVC pipe with 2 end caps: cheap, doesn't scratch or scrape anything, and you can attach a line thru 2 holes in one of the end caps before putting it together. It's amazing how much weight even sand will offer, but tire weights seems a good 'best value' option. The anti-kellet? Ross Norgrove is who I've heard recommend it, and that's pretty high praise indeed. Consider using a large, round inflatable fender (like you see on the French boats; orange body with a blue top) and attach that to the rode some distance out from the boat. You've got to get the distances right and using a higher ratio of rode/depth helps...but once the wind & surge pipe up, pushing your boat back against the rode, it will have to work immensely hard before being able to submerge that buoy enough to tighten up your rode. Up to that point, the buoyancy of the buoy is working like a shock absorber on the rode and your anchor isn't seeing the shock loading nor the pressure on the hull. Jack
I definitely agree with Tom that kellets/sentinels produce the best results in lighter winds and with little surge. I've used them on several boats and, once the wind picks up, their effect must by necessity be lessened - at which point it's the same as one's rode being stretched by the pressure of the wind. I think the cheapest/easiest to live with arrangement of a DIY fashion is 4" ID PVC pipe with 2 end caps: cheap, doesn't scratch or scrape anything, and you can attach a line thru 2 holes in one of the end caps before putting it together. It's amazing how much weight even sand will offer, but tire weights seems a good 'best value' option. The anti-kellet? Ross Norgrove is who I've heard recommend it, and that's pretty high praise indeed. Consider using a large, round inflatable fender (like you see on the French boats; orange body with a blue top) and attach that to the rode some distance out from the boat. You've got to get the distances right and using a higher ratio of rode/depth helps...but once the wind & surge pipe up, pushing your boat back against the rode, it will have to work immensely hard before being able to submerge that buoy enough to tighten up your rode. Up to that point, the buoyancy of the buoy is working like a shock absorber on the rode and your anchor isn't seeing the shock loading nor the pressure on the hull. Jack
My experience with a sentinel
My sentinel is about 20lbs (purpose made). In addition to minimizing "sailing" at anchor, it helps prevent keel and rudder wrap with rope/chain rodes. When tidal current and wind oppose, the rode can wrap around the keel and rudder. Not much of a problem in the summmertime with warm water, but a bigger problem in the Fall, when you have to go in the water to unwrap. I got my sentinel right after a Fall keel/rudder wrap.
My sentinel is about 20lbs (purpose made). In addition to minimizing "sailing" at anchor, it helps prevent keel and rudder wrap with rope/chain rodes. When tidal current and wind oppose, the rode can wrap around the keel and rudder. Not much of a problem in the summmertime with warm water, but a bigger problem in the Fall, when you have to go in the water to unwrap. I got my sentinel right after a Fall keel/rudder wrap.
Timing of Essence
Another reason to use a sentinel, I haven't read yet. If the wind picks up and your anchor rode straightens out, the more likely your anchor line can get cut by a prop. YES! I had (2) pieces of 2" diameter stainless made up with a loop welded to the top. Before I had these I used an undeployed umbrella type anchor. I didn't use it the day our anchor line was cut by a passer by 60 foot powerboater. I hesitated before we left with the dink. Should I use it or not? I didn't. Needless to say, I use my sentinel every time we anchor. We all learn the hard way, I guess. Mike D
Another reason to use a sentinel, I haven't read yet. If the wind picks up and your anchor rode straightens out, the more likely your anchor line can get cut by a prop. YES! I had (2) pieces of 2" diameter stainless made up with a loop welded to the top. Before I had these I used an undeployed umbrella type anchor. I didn't use it the day our anchor line was cut by a passer by 60 foot powerboater. I hesitated before we left with the dink. Should I use it or not? I didn't. Needless to say, I use my sentinel every time we anchor. We all learn the hard way, I guess. Mike D
Anti-Kellet?
Thanks guys for the input. I'm intrigued enough by this to give it a try. Our anchorages get pretty crowded during the summer and a kellet should help with the swing room problem. Mark, thanks for the comments on the Sail magazine article. Glad you enjoyed it. Jack, at the risk of sounding dumb, how do you rig a large balloon type fender such that it tries to submerge when the rode pulls taut? It seems to me the rode would try to pull it to the surface. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Thanks guys for the input. I'm intrigued enough by this to give it a try. Our anchorages get pretty crowded during the summer and a kellet should help with the swing room problem. Mark, thanks for the comments on the Sail magazine article. Glad you enjoyed it. Jack, at the risk of sounding dumb, how do you rig a large balloon type fender such that it tries to submerge when the rode pulls taut? It seems to me the rode would try to pull it to the surface. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Anti-Kellet used in a blow
An Anti-Kellet is used if you know that you will be pulling hard on your anchor during a blow. The "Anti-Kellet" or float puts less shock on your anchor and keeps the bow of your sailboat from plowing into the water when the anchor rode pulls tight during a blow. The float is located on your anchor rode about halfway from the anchor to your sailboat. The location of the float is where the anchor rode would normally be underwater if your sailboat pulled tight on your anchor. The float takes some of the strain off the anchor and keeps the force on the sailboat’s bow horizontal to keep it from nose-diving into the waves as the sailboat tries to sink the float by pulling on the anchor rode. The "Anti-Kellet" keeps half your anchor rode near the surface, the opposite of the "Kellet". You normally would use it in bad weather only, since the anchor rode near the surface could foul on your keel. Fair Winds. Clyde
An Anti-Kellet is used if you know that you will be pulling hard on your anchor during a blow. The "Anti-Kellet" or float puts less shock on your anchor and keeps the bow of your sailboat from plowing into the water when the anchor rode pulls tight during a blow. The float is located on your anchor rode about halfway from the anchor to your sailboat. The location of the float is where the anchor rode would normally be underwater if your sailboat pulled tight on your anchor. The float takes some of the strain off the anchor and keeps the force on the sailboat’s bow horizontal to keep it from nose-diving into the waves as the sailboat tries to sink the float by pulling on the anchor rode. The "Anti-Kellet" keeps half your anchor rode near the surface, the opposite of the "Kellet". You normally would use it in bad weather only, since the anchor rode near the surface could foul on your keel. Fair Winds. Clyde
I am Wondering About Using Both
Here is my idea, in the middle of your rode use the kellet closest to the anchor and the anti-kellet closest to the boat with a length of line between them equal to the depth of the water. That way it will tend to keep the angles at the boat and at the anchor to a minimum. We need someone with more time than work to do a vector analysis on this and see what comes of it. Something worth talking about over a few beers though.
Here is my idea, in the middle of your rode use the kellet closest to the anchor and the anti-kellet closest to the boat with a length of line between them equal to the depth of the water. That way it will tend to keep the angles at the boat and at the anchor to a minimum. We need someone with more time than work to do a vector analysis on this and see what comes of it. Something worth talking about over a few beers though.
Up Kellet!
Gary, Although the hardcover Chapman Piloting occupies a place of prominence in my home sailing library, the smaller paperback (expendable?) reference book I keep onboard is Tom Bottomly’s Boatman’s Handbook 1985 edition (now available as The Boater’s Handbook to be more PC, $13.97 at Amazon.com). In the chapter on Seamanship (or to be PC, Seapersonship so we don't upset the wopeople?
there is a section called “Basic Anchoring Techniques” which lists 3 ways to prevent anchor dragging. The first suggestion is to try more scope or a bigger anchor. The second is to use a sentinel weight (kellet) but there are warnings that wave resonance may cause rode erosion. The third alternative is to use a buoy (anti-kellet?). That paragraph is confusing so I’ll quote: “3. An alternative to the sentinel is a buoy on the anchor line. This carries the vertical hold in the anchoring system and limits the basic load on the boat to that required to hold the boat in position. The buoy permits the boat’s bow to rise up easily over wave crests, rather than being pulled down into them, increasing the loads on both anchor and rode.” What I get from this is: 1) with the bow up, the boat will be dryer; 2) By reducing the shock load cause by wave action, the anchor won’t be jerked loose. Happy sails _/), (and Happy New Year!) MArk
Gary, Although the hardcover Chapman Piloting occupies a place of prominence in my home sailing library, the smaller paperback (expendable?) reference book I keep onboard is Tom Bottomly’s Boatman’s Handbook 1985 edition (now available as The Boater’s Handbook to be more PC, $13.97 at Amazon.com). In the chapter on Seamanship (or to be PC, Seapersonship so we don't upset the wopeople?
there is a section called “Basic Anchoring Techniques” which lists 3 ways to prevent anchor dragging. The first suggestion is to try more scope or a bigger anchor. The second is to use a sentinel weight (kellet) but there are warnings that wave resonance may cause rode erosion. The third alternative is to use a buoy (anti-kellet?). That paragraph is confusing so I’ll quote: “3. An alternative to the sentinel is a buoy on the anchor line. This carries the vertical hold in the anchoring system and limits the basic load on the boat to that required to hold the boat in position. The buoy permits the boat’s bow to rise up easily over wave crests, rather than being pulled down into them, increasing the loads on both anchor and rode.” What I get from this is: 1) with the bow up, the boat will be dryer; 2) By reducing the shock load cause by wave action, the anchor won’t be jerked loose. Happy sails _/), (and Happy New Year!) MArkThanks MArk
An even better deal is bookcloseouts.com I got the same book for $6.99. Maybe we should have checked the chandlery here first?
An even better deal is bookcloseouts.com I got the same book for $6.99. Maybe we should have checked the chandlery here first?
You are right Rick
You are right, someone should do a vector analysis of this in different wind, water conditions for different weights and scopes. In the mean time I'll just put out more rode and anchor in protected water. See my sketch attached.
You are right, someone should do a vector analysis of this in different wind, water conditions for different weights and scopes. In the mean time I'll just put out more rode and anchor in protected water. See my sketch attached.
Attachments
- Status