Upgrading sailboats, mariner

[finding41]

I'm bias because I have 2 MacGreogor 26D's. The Mac will be easier to sell once you are done with it. For more than you paid for sure. Easy to find parts for and a good community for support. macgregorowners.com
That said. I'd get the boat that takes the least amount of work and $ to get sailing. Then start saving some $ and research your next boat. (Race and go to other marinas and ask the sailboat owners questions.) Learn what to look for in a used boat! Learn what to stay away form in the same!
Then watch CraigsList and jaxed.com. Try offering half the asking price in person and in cash.
Happy 3rd boat shopping.

Here is a picture of the Siren 17 I was given this spring. Before and after. I have $120 invested in it. But I have a lot of hours cleaning and fixing and some scrap wood.
Video of the Siren when I picked it up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ0QDSG4zaA

 

[Kestle]

If you bring a light hammer (not a framing hammer), you can tap on the fiberglass to hear if it is solid. Don't rap on it hard, just a very light tapping so it doesn't alarm the seller. You want to listen for a firm rap sound, not a thud. I thud will indicate delaminated or rotten core underneath the fiberglass. The areas to test will be the cockpit floor, any side decking around the coach roof and bow, and also test the coach roof. All the water left in the cockpit (shown in the photos) is a signal that soft cores could be an issue. The boat is likely not to be worth the repairs if you find significant areas where the tapping sounds like a thud. You can live with some minor areas of soft deck, I think. I have some areas like that on the side decks myself. I think I'd be most concerned if you find soft core in the cockpit and anywhere around the mast, bow or shrouds.

Actually, I suggest using the handle butt of a screw driver.

It is lighter and easier to keep the tap pressure even over a whole boat.

Jeff

 

[Kestle]

I've sailed for a very long time, but never owned a sailboat until five years ago. I am still stunned how much I learned from it and this forum. While I spent more than many on mine, there were areas where I felt having a pro do it was better as I usually sail solo.

Always buy cheap insurance, not the financial kind. Rigging and lifelines are cheap. Always replace them first. Spectra/Dyneema halyards and lines can also be made/bought cheap, and they will stretch less than what's there.

On swing keels, always drop the keel and replace the pivot bolt. $5 is cheap insurance. Same with the lifting rope/cable. If the keel's cast iron, have it sandblasted and coat it with epoxy on the same day, working the epoxy in with a wire brush. 3-5 coats will be enough.

Rig a downhaul line on the jib, so you can see when motoring solo.

Start a maintenance log, or buy an aircraft one. There are many items that need replacing/lubing/cleaning after different periods. Never trust your memory.

Make setup and breakdown checklists.

...just paying it forward...

Jeff

 

[dwdrums801]

Finally brought her home

 

[Chris Patterson]

Oh hell yeah, look at you, man. FINE boat!

 

[arknoah]

That's the Venture, right? I think that's a good choice.

Congrats!

 

[dwdrums801]

That's the Venture, right? I think that's a good choice.

Congrats!

1971 oday mariner

 

[Chris Patterson]

I'm not sure if there is any finer of a day boat than the Mariner. Not discounting at all boats like an Alerion that I think few people on this board is buying or owning.
There's a guy down here on the island that sails his over three hundred days a year. Only boat I've ever seen that seems like it can sail into the wind. NOBODY gets inna drag race with this guy. He can't be beat..