updating older interior

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Barry Lenoble

Hello, When you compare an older boat, one from the early 80's, to the newer boats, the interiors (IMHO) look old. I guess the main difference is the older boats have lots of dark wood. The tables are real dark, the cabinets are real dark, etc. The newer boats are much brighter. Does anyone have tips for updating / brightening the interior of the older boats? I think that the table tops would be a good place to start, then maybe some lighter trim here and there. Anything specific to a 1983 C36? Thanks, Barry
 
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Trevor - SailboatOwners.com

Brightening up an older boat

Hi Barry - Older boats that are more traditional had a tendency to have darker wooks and veneers, and most did not have dead lights in the hull to let additional light in. I can tell you that changing the faux wood veneer in the cabin surfaces (galley, nav station, salon and game tables) to white will brighten your early C36 interior considerably. The only way to lighten the bulkheads would be to remove the finish, treat with acid and refinish. This would be a lot of work! One somewhat expensive but easy mod is to replace the forward solid fiberglass V-berth hatch to a clear (tinted) lexan hatch. Cruising Concepts offers a direct replacement (see Related link below). This added a lot of light to our Mk I C36. Best of luck! Trevor
 
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Ron Brassord

Updating interior

We recently acquired an 88 C30 that had the original oiled interior that was very dark from a buildup of dirt and oil. It now looks like a new boat with a bright shiny clean varnished interior. It was not that hard a project, and I've done the same job on other old boats. The trick lies in getting the wood [all of it] clean and ready to accept varnish. The trim can be manually scraped to new wood, but that's the hard way. I stripped out everything in the boat, and went at it with a two part cleaner [Teka, A&B] using buckets of water and a lot of sponges. One application does it, leaving the wood ready to lightly sand when dry. Three coats of regular varnish transforms the teak to it's original warm glow. I was leery of using the cleaner on the veneer bulkheads, but figured I would have to paint them if I bugered them up scraping, and had nothing to loose. The plywood came out better than the solid trim. I think Catalina used an exceptionally good quality plywood as it took the abuse with out a particle of failure. I'm sure this method would work only on wood that has been oiled or just left unsealed, and not on anything that has been varnished or sealed with a varnish like product. Try a small area out of sight for a test. The wood wround the sink was black with oil and grime--it now looks new. The interior teak on my 30 is beautiful stuff, as is the quality of the joinery. Now with the varnish, it will stay lovely for the duration. The whole job on our 30 took less than 50 hours, and maybe $80 in material, $20 Teka, and three quarts of Interlux 96 varnish. The gloss is best for the base coats, and then go to semigloss for a top coat if wanted. My mate won the color conflict, and we had all the cushions redone in hunter green sunbrella fabric, and I have to concede it looks fabulous. If I can answer any questions, I'd be glad to help. Ron B LHP FL.
 
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