Can someone post a diagram or pictures of how the lines run through the rudder assy. Also were to mount the cleats? What type of cleats are best? What size line is best? Thanks
Up Haul/Down Haul info for 84 O'day 222
- Thread starter pjcorb1
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My rudder is modified and I'm using an O'Day 25 tiller. The rudder blade hold down pendant line is 3/16" braid line and it runs inside the rudder head behind the pintles and a block of Teak and exits over a bolt just under the tiller. There is also a 12'' bungee cord connected to the pendant line to keep it taught when the blade is up. The bungee is suppose to prevent the line from getting caught in between the blade and inside edges of the rudder head. Small crimp type stainless steel "C" clamps are used to attach the bungee to the line and form the loop around the bolt. The line goes through a self rescue clam cleat under the tiller. This cleat is about 19" from the bolt hole on my tiller. A self rescue cleat has a hole in which the line is inserted as opposed to a regular open clam cleat. I have some pics of this. Also, your 84 O'Day 222 may not have a tension bar down in the cabin which braces the mast from the post on the galley cabinet. You may want to have one made for your boat. I have a picture of it and a sketch is available if one is needed.
Joe
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The rudder blade pivots on a single bolt near the bottom of the rudder head, Keith.
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Joe, I have the support post on my 222. It looks like it was factory installed. I bought this boat this past summer after I sold my 93 H26. The 222 sails much better than my H26 did. I sail on Barnegat Bay in N.J. The northern part of the bay is very shallow [ 5-6 ft @ in it's deepest areas.] so draft was a problem with the H26. Thank's for the info. Pat
Pat,
I'm glad that you have the tension bar in your boat. Most of the guys that I've talked to who own 84s and 85s didn't have these in their boats, so that's one less thing that you need to worry about. When you get your rudder all squared away, you'll want to always make sure that it's all the way down when you're sailing. If it creeps up even a 1/2" while you're sailing you'll feel a lot of strong weather helm and in most cases the blade will have a tendency to flex and open up at the seam. I've gone through two rudder blades. My present blade is a solid blade that I bought at D & R Marine, years ago and it's lasted all these years. These blades were manufactured by Foss Mfg. in Clearwater Fl., and they're noted for failing, not just on the 222s, but a lot of the larger OD boats with spade rudders.
For the bungee cord, you want to use 3/16." I made a sail jock out of some plastic hooks and about 18' of 3/16" bungee cord a few years ago for my boat, and it makes a great sail tie down.
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/sailties/sailties.htm
Good Luck!
Joe
Joe, Where does the bunge cord get attt. Where does the downhaul line run as it goes through the rudder cage? I know all to well how the position of the rudder changes weatherhelm/leehelm. My h26 had the same problem. how long have you owned your 222? Any other tips on the 222 would be appp. Thank's Pat
Pat,
When you pull the pendant line out of the rudder head, measure 18" from where the line exits from in back of the rudder blade. This is where you want to crimp on the bungee cord. Then, you are going to want to make the bungee cord about 12" long from that point to the tip of the loop that will go around the bolt. I usually draw a mark with a magic marker, and pull the pendant line and bungee cord back into the rudder head with a coat hanger or wire. Then I make a loop around the bolt and crimp it. Your tiller probably rests on the a bolt under the tiller, so you're going to want to use the bolt just below that one for the bungee loop. Make sure that when you crimp the bungee to the pendant line, that you have it going in the same direction as the line. Check out the diagram. The line comes up behind the Teak block and out over the bolt that the bungee is attached to. If your pendant line gets caught in between the rudder blade and the inside of the rudder head, you may need to remove one of the rudder head plates and shave the Teak blocks down a little to get a tighter fit. This is what I had to do.
I bought my boat new at the Boston Boat Show in 1986. I was able to talk the dealer into having the O'Day company leave off winches and tracks on my boat at the factory so that I could relocate them to the combings. I also asked for a full stern rail and later found out that they in turn installed these rails on 20 of their OD 222s. At that time, I visited the O'Day factory in Fall River Ma. twice and was able to see my boat being built. Check out the Owner's evaluation of the 222 and Owner's Photos under "Trinkka" on this site for more pics and modifications that I have done through the years. The only other thing that I can tell you is to stick with the same thickness of stays that your boat came with which is 1/8" or your chain plate "L" brackets on the bulkhead can break. I have OD 25 chain plates on my boat now. If you need any further info or pics, feel free to email me. sailtrinkka1986@verizon.net I hope that I was of some help here. Good Luck!
Joe
cool, i see that now, i have my rudder up on the workbench giving it the go over. i spent the day trying to tie up loose ends on my boat, things like putting wire ties in place, making a block of wood to hold the salon/head folding door open, makiing some teak trim pieces to cover the chainplate bolts, cussing my router table, tuciking in wires and finding a couple of my crimps loose and redoing those. and now i am having a beer and watching the Country Music Awards.
keith
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