I plan on having my boatyard unstep the mast on my 1991 Catalina 28 which I purchased 5 years ago. Would like advice on common types of repair and trouble shooting I need to do with the mast down.This is the first time to my knowledge the mast has ever been unstepped on this boat although the main halyard and topping lift sheaves were replaced this Spring by yard crew going up the mast.
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Bill, I unstepped the mast on my 1988 Cal 28 last winter. My main reasons were to replace standing rigging and masthead sheaves. It may be a bit early for rigging replacement on your '91 (although some riggers might not agree) but certainly have all of the rigging and connections inspected including spreader tips and bases. You might want to replace bulbs on anchor, steaming, and deck lights since they are pretty cheap. I also took the opportunity to put a coat of wax on the mast as well as to wax the mainsail slot. Check the condition of internal wiring for lights and antennas at the connectors and replace if necessary. If you were planning on making additions like a spinnaker pole mast track, spreader lights, etc. now would obviously be a good time. Larry
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Bill O'Donovan
Replace the bulb
Regardless if it's out. Replace anything else that's handy, since it's easier to do down.
Regardless if it's out. Replace anything else that's handy, since it's easier to do down.
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Dan McGuire
Early Failure
Reference Bill's posting about replacing bulbs. I don't know whether I would do that or not. Well actually I do. I wouldn't. Electronic and electrical items tend to fail either early or very late in life. If it was in there for over five years, I might be tempted to replace it. Otherwise your odds might be better to leave it. I am a believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Reference Bill's posting about replacing bulbs. I don't know whether I would do that or not. Well actually I do. I wouldn't. Electronic and electrical items tend to fail either early or very late in life. If it was in there for over five years, I might be tempted to replace it. Otherwise your odds might be better to leave it. I am a believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
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Dan McGuire
Look at the Logic
I worked as an engineer for Lockheed Martin. Part of the process of building electrical components was "burn in". We would operate the equipment for five hours or more so that the early failing components would fail. If you would do something similar to the new bulbs you would be OK. For example turn the bulb on for an hour and then turn it off for several minutes. Then repeat four more times. Otherwise, you will get more failures by changing it. When I have a failure on anything, electrical or not, I look at what was done recently. Did I do something? Thus the philosophy "If it aint broke, don't fix it."
I worked as an engineer for Lockheed Martin. Part of the process of building electrical components was "burn in". We would operate the equipment for five hours or more so that the early failing components would fail. If you would do something similar to the new bulbs you would be OK. For example turn the bulb on for an hour and then turn it off for several minutes. Then repeat four more times. Otherwise, you will get more failures by changing it. When I have a failure on anything, electrical or not, I look at what was done recently. Did I do something? Thus the philosophy "If it aint broke, don't fix it."
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Dan McGuire
More than you Want to Know about Bulbs
A light bulb is a deceptively complex piece of equipment. It has several components. There is a filament, which heats up and gradually evaporates. The filament is is covered with an inert gas which reduces corrosion. Eventually either due to the heating or heating and cooling cycles, it will develop a minor flaw, which eventually results in failure. In addition there are several seals. There is a seal between the glass and the metal base. In addition there is at least one seal between the glass and a ceramic piece and one more seal between the conductor and the ceramic piece. Every time the bulb is turned on there is stress around these seals. If manufactured correctly, they will last a long time. If there is a defect, such as a small inclusion in the ceramic or glass, the failure will happen more rapidly. The bulb operates in a fairly benign environment. There is some acceleration and vibration, but not nearly as severe as the process of installing the bulbs. The small twisting can result in stress. In addition just touching the bulb leaves residue on the glass, which will result in uneven stresses. As a consequence, bulb installation is just as likely to cause failure as the operation of the bulb itself. Studies have been performed. Components are installed with as little stress as possible. The component is then operated in an environment to simulate actual operating conditions. The first time the component is operated is the most likely single cycle in which it will fail. Actually when each individual cycle is looked at, the first cycle remains the most likely cycle to fail. For example, it could be more likely to fail in the first cycle than the 10,000th cycle. I don't know what the actual numbers are. These are WAGs.
A light bulb is a deceptively complex piece of equipment. It has several components. There is a filament, which heats up and gradually evaporates. The filament is is covered with an inert gas which reduces corrosion. Eventually either due to the heating or heating and cooling cycles, it will develop a minor flaw, which eventually results in failure. In addition there are several seals. There is a seal between the glass and the metal base. In addition there is at least one seal between the glass and a ceramic piece and one more seal between the conductor and the ceramic piece. Every time the bulb is turned on there is stress around these seals. If manufactured correctly, they will last a long time. If there is a defect, such as a small inclusion in the ceramic or glass, the failure will happen more rapidly. The bulb operates in a fairly benign environment. There is some acceleration and vibration, but not nearly as severe as the process of installing the bulbs. The small twisting can result in stress. In addition just touching the bulb leaves residue on the glass, which will result in uneven stresses. As a consequence, bulb installation is just as likely to cause failure as the operation of the bulb itself. Studies have been performed. Components are installed with as little stress as possible. The component is then operated in an environment to simulate actual operating conditions. The first time the component is operated is the most likely single cycle in which it will fail. Actually when each individual cycle is looked at, the first cycle remains the most likely cycle to fail. For example, it could be more likely to fail in the first cycle than the 10,000th cycle. I don't know what the actual numbers are. These are WAGs.
more on more ...
Lamp Life Ratings measure the number of hours (under test conditions) until 50% of the tested lamps fail. This is the rating, in hours. What you have, therefor, is a guarantee that half your lamps will burn out withing that time frame. Assuming a 1,000 hour rated lamp, half of them would be expected to burned out within 1,000 hours. The first 49% could have burnt out anytime within the 1000 hrs (say after a minute). FWIW Gord
Lamp Life Ratings measure the number of hours (under test conditions) until 50% of the tested lamps fail. This is the rating, in hours. What you have, therefor, is a guarantee that half your lamps will burn out withing that time frame. Assuming a 1,000 hour rated lamp, half of them would be expected to burned out within 1,000 hours. The first 49% could have burnt out anytime within the 1000 hrs (say after a minute). FWIW Gord
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