Is the GATES 3VX400 a correct V-Belt for the M 18 Diesel?
I have searched the site and found this and a few other numbers.
Thanks
I have searched the site and found this and a few other numbers.
Thanks
Universal M 18 V-Belt
- Thread starter Loose Ends
- Start date
Keep in mind that if the engine had the alternator bracket upgrade the belt size will be different.
I was just thinking that after I posted.
Mine has the upgraded bracket (pic). From memory, the new bracket takes a smaller (7385) belt.
The old bracket belt may have been a 7390.
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No bracket upgrade. I used a string and got a measurement about 40”. I figured someone has replaced this belt or has a spare still in the packaging with the part number on it. I appreciate all the responses so far.
Bill
Bill
@Loose Ends
If you (or a PO) haven't done the alternator bracket upgrade - do so soon - your living on borrowed time. I won't say its easy - but it doesn't take a diesel mechanic. Its very easy if you have a later model with the longer exhaust manifold studs. If you don't do the upgrade - so the alternator bracket looks like the above picture - what happens is the original design where the bracket hangs off a bolt thru the timing cover is weak. countless timing covers have broken open at that attachment. When that happens oil mist is sprayed everywhere, you could run the engine out of oil, you could have a fire --- but if none of that bad stuff happens you have a very expensive repair bill (or repower bill), the timing cover is made of pure unobtainium and when they were available cost more than $1200, so your only hope is to find a good machine shop to weld and resurface the cover - did I say expensive???
@mainesail has a good article on doing the upgrade at marinehowto.com
Mahalo
If you (or a PO) haven't done the alternator bracket upgrade - do so soon - your living on borrowed time. I won't say its easy - but it doesn't take a diesel mechanic. Its very easy if you have a later model with the longer exhaust manifold studs. If you don't do the upgrade - so the alternator bracket looks like the above picture - what happens is the original design where the bracket hangs off a bolt thru the timing cover is weak. countless timing covers have broken open at that attachment. When that happens oil mist is sprayed everywhere, you could run the engine out of oil, you could have a fire --- but if none of that bad stuff happens you have a very expensive repair bill (or repower bill), the timing cover is made of pure unobtainium and when they were available cost more than $1200, so your only hope is to find a good machine shop to weld and resurface the cover - did I say expensive???
@mainesail has a good article on doing the upgrade at marinehowto.com
Mahalo
I used a trick for short studs.
From my post of the completed project:
"For those of us with the short manifold studs, One trick I found to get the studs out without rem the manifold was to use a half sized nut in the back, so that the full sized one would have enough threads to hang on. -pic. I also put a spring washer in between them after I mashed it flat with a hammer. -not in pic. The spring washer is paper thin. Then I used an old 10mm open end wrench that the local jet ski shop ground down for me to make it exactly as thin as the back nut. Wrenched that back nut after locking them together and bingo."
Skipper, love the idea.
With my luck, one of the bolts would shear off with no thread lubrication at the exhaust manifold.
Did they come out easily or were you gritting your teeth when you went to loosen them?
With my luck, one of the bolts would shear off with no thread lubrication at the exhaust manifold.
Did they come out easily or were you gritting your teeth when you went to loosen them?
I was afraid they would snap cause their so small. I pulled the manafold and soaked kroil for several days.
Pulled them with vice grips, using an easy back and forth motion till they are free. One or more of those studs are wet so install with proper sealant. I forget what I used but ask at NAPA they will get the right stuff. Or read mainesail’s writeup
Pulled them with vice grips, using an easy back and forth motion till they are free. One or more of those studs are wet so install with proper sealant. I forget what I used but ask at NAPA they will get the right stuff. Or read mainesail’s writeup
They were tight but as soon as I got a grip on that back nut with the open end wrench, they broke free. The best I can describe it is that they required the anticipated amount of torque effort to break free.