My exhaust elbow on my Universal 5411 finally broke in half last weekend while motoring the boat into the slip and I am in the process of repairing it. Here's the question. Since the exhaust hose past the elbow is presumably all original should I replace all of this as well since I am in the process of getting everything cleaned out? It seems to be in fine shape, but it seems to me to be smart to replace it. One other thing that has me stumped is a fitting in the middle of the exhaust hose run. It looks like a metal coupling that has a large (1 1/2?) screw cap on the top of it that is just capped off. Was this an attachment for muffler at one time? It has "empire" printed on its side. Any other advice on the exhause work it appreciated as well. Good archived info already. Thanks in advance.
universal exhaust problem
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I didn't
I didn't replace my exhaust hose when I replaced my exhaust elbow a few years ago on my 1981 C-30's 5411. My hose seemed to be in good shape. If you find that it's mushy or the wire reinforcing is rusting through, that's a different story. I have no idea what your "coupling" is other than just that. Someone may have replaced part of your hose before. Your water lift muffler (fiberglass, box shaped thing) is connected to your exhaust pretty close to the engine.
I didn't replace my exhaust hose when I replaced my exhaust elbow a few years ago on my 1981 C-30's 5411. My hose seemed to be in good shape. If you find that it's mushy or the wire reinforcing is rusting through, that's a different story. I have no idea what your "coupling" is other than just that. Someone may have replaced part of your hose before. Your water lift muffler (fiberglass, box shaped thing) is connected to your exhaust pretty close to the engine.
Exhaust Riser Replacement
This is for an M25, from my Feb. 2004 Mainsheet article, (pictures extra - haven't figured them out yet for here) (Psst- become an association member and get the Mainsheet - lots of great information in every quarterly issue) [sorry about the justification - that's cut & paste for ya...] **************** **************** On Saturday, August 16, 2003, I had just completed an early sail across the eastern end of San Francisco Bay, and had sailed south of the Bay Bridge towards Pac Bell Park and a Giants baseball game. The wind died south of the bridge, so I was motor sailing with the engine at idle speed. I smelled diesel exhaust and looked around for a motorboat or ferryboat that had passed by upwind. There was none. But there was a huge brown black mass of exhaust coming at me from the cabin! I immediately cut the engine, set the sails and the autopilot to head upwind in the very light air, and went below to open up all the hatches and ports. Inspection confirmed my initial idea that the exhaust riser had separated, right above the water injection nipple. Of course, I’d been “meaning” to make this a replacement for this year, but failure caught up to me first. A year or so ago Dave Davis had sent me copies of the exhaust riser drawings he had received from Catalina Yachts. One showed the old five piece black iron assembly, and the other showed the new improved stainless steel model. I called Catalina, and they fabricated the new exhaust riser for me and I had it in hand within two weeks ($165). In the meantime, I had done research on obtaining professional help, and engaged Glenn Barton of Stone Boat Yard in Alameda to do the work. Since there has been much written about exhaust riser replacement on the website and in the message board, I won’t bother repeating that information. However, I noticed that no one had provided any pictures, so here they are: 1. Old riser and hump hose - You can see the nipple on the old blue hump hose, and the clean break in the black iron where the insulation begins. 2. New Riser - It came pre-insulated from the factory. Note the nipple on the port side that goes in under the head sink, the horizontal part that goes from under the sink to the engine compartment, and the drop and elbow into the back of the exhaust manifold, all one piece. The existing exhaust flange came off the back of the engine manifold easily, no doubt helped by the fact that I’d soaked the three studs with liquid wrench for three days before we did the work. The exhaust flange threads on to the threaded end of the riser. We used muffler paste on these threads. 3. New Heat Exchanger - I replaced the old 2 inch heat exchanger with the new three inch model that I bought last year. Glenn took the old bracket to his shop, and simply bent it down to fit the new heat exchanger underneath the new exhaust riser. 4. Connection underneath head sink - Glenn recommended a longer hose between the exhaust riser and the Aqualift muffler, instead of reusing the hump hose. Instead of the hump hose from the nipple end to the muffler, there is a large loop of 1 5/8 inch exhaust hose. This should cut down on the vibration between the end of the riser and the lip of the muffler. We used non-hardening pipe dope on the lip before clamping the hose to it. The work took about 6 hours. We also replaced all the water hoses and installed new clamps and a new antisiphon valve. The engine is running cooler than its usual 180, down to 160 at all speeds. I had 1390 engine hours when the old riser failed. I believe that the riser was the original one, since the previous owner had left me with very good records which did not indicate that he’d ever replaced the riser. I recommend that you all check your older exhaust risers. It’s easier to replace before failure. It took me over four hours to sail back to my slip the day of the “event” against a flood. Stu Jackson #224 1986 “Aquavite”
This is for an M25, from my Feb. 2004 Mainsheet article, (pictures extra - haven't figured them out yet for here) (Psst- become an association member and get the Mainsheet - lots of great information in every quarterly issue) [sorry about the justification - that's cut & paste for ya...] **************** **************** On Saturday, August 16, 2003, I had just completed an early sail across the eastern end of San Francisco Bay, and had sailed south of the Bay Bridge towards Pac Bell Park and a Giants baseball game. The wind died south of the bridge, so I was motor sailing with the engine at idle speed. I smelled diesel exhaust and looked around for a motorboat or ferryboat that had passed by upwind. There was none. But there was a huge brown black mass of exhaust coming at me from the cabin! I immediately cut the engine, set the sails and the autopilot to head upwind in the very light air, and went below to open up all the hatches and ports. Inspection confirmed my initial idea that the exhaust riser had separated, right above the water injection nipple. Of course, I’d been “meaning” to make this a replacement for this year, but failure caught up to me first. A year or so ago Dave Davis had sent me copies of the exhaust riser drawings he had received from Catalina Yachts. One showed the old five piece black iron assembly, and the other showed the new improved stainless steel model. I called Catalina, and they fabricated the new exhaust riser for me and I had it in hand within two weeks ($165). In the meantime, I had done research on obtaining professional help, and engaged Glenn Barton of Stone Boat Yard in Alameda to do the work. Since there has been much written about exhaust riser replacement on the website and in the message board, I won’t bother repeating that information. However, I noticed that no one had provided any pictures, so here they are: 1. Old riser and hump hose - You can see the nipple on the old blue hump hose, and the clean break in the black iron where the insulation begins. 2. New Riser - It came pre-insulated from the factory. Note the nipple on the port side that goes in under the head sink, the horizontal part that goes from under the sink to the engine compartment, and the drop and elbow into the back of the exhaust manifold, all one piece. The existing exhaust flange came off the back of the engine manifold easily, no doubt helped by the fact that I’d soaked the three studs with liquid wrench for three days before we did the work. The exhaust flange threads on to the threaded end of the riser. We used muffler paste on these threads. 3. New Heat Exchanger - I replaced the old 2 inch heat exchanger with the new three inch model that I bought last year. Glenn took the old bracket to his shop, and simply bent it down to fit the new heat exchanger underneath the new exhaust riser. 4. Connection underneath head sink - Glenn recommended a longer hose between the exhaust riser and the Aqualift muffler, instead of reusing the hump hose. Instead of the hump hose from the nipple end to the muffler, there is a large loop of 1 5/8 inch exhaust hose. This should cut down on the vibration between the end of the riser and the lip of the muffler. We used non-hardening pipe dope on the lip before clamping the hose to it. The work took about 6 hours. We also replaced all the water hoses and installed new clamps and a new antisiphon valve. The engine is running cooler than its usual 180, down to 160 at all speeds. I had 1390 engine hours when the old riser failed. I believe that the riser was the original one, since the previous owner had left me with very good records which did not indicate that he’d ever replaced the riser. I recommend that you all check your older exhaust risers. It’s easier to replace before failure. It took me over four hours to sail back to my slip the day of the “event” against a flood. Stu Jackson #224 1986 “Aquavite”
exhaust
Steve; When the exhaust elbow in the pipe rusted through on my '82 C-30, I replaced the whole pipe. You'll need to save the fitting on the engine and the brass piece with the tube soldered in it, the water injection,, but the center section is black iron pipe from the hardware store. Don't buy it from Catalina. They'll charge you a hundred bucks for ten bucks worth of nipples and elbows. Wrap it it fiberglass insulation when done. Not hard, but takes some time to get everything to fit.
Steve; When the exhaust elbow in the pipe rusted through on my '82 C-30, I replaced the whole pipe. You'll need to save the fitting on the engine and the brass piece with the tube soldered in it, the water injection,, but the center section is black iron pipe from the hardware store. Don't buy it from Catalina. They'll charge you a hundred bucks for ten bucks worth of nipples and elbows. Wrap it it fiberglass insulation when done. Not hard, but takes some time to get everything to fit.
MY '77 C30
Years ago I replaced the elbow on my '77 C30's Westerbeke 21. At the time I pulled out all the exhaust hosing and inspected it. I replaced only a small section, otherwise it looked fine for all those years. As for the coupling you speak of, it may be the check valve. My boat has a large "flipper" type check valve between the exhaust and exhaust port at the rear of the boat. A couple of years ago I had a problem with back siphoning of sea water into my enginine when under sail and heeling because the "flipper" corroded off. You may want to inspect it.
Years ago I replaced the elbow on my '77 C30's Westerbeke 21. At the time I pulled out all the exhaust hosing and inspected it. I replaced only a small section, otherwise it looked fine for all those years. As for the coupling you speak of, it may be the check valve. My boat has a large "flipper" type check valve between the exhaust and exhaust port at the rear of the boat. A couple of years ago I had a problem with back siphoning of sea water into my enginine when under sail and heeling because the "flipper" corroded off. You may want to inspect it.
Thanks
I replaced the exhaust elbow and added some pictures to the project forum (some gigantic photos that is!?). Thanks for the help with this one. Everything went well. Steve
I replaced the exhaust elbow and added some pictures to the project forum (some gigantic photos that is!?). Thanks for the help with this one. Everything went well. Steve
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