Uniseal tank thickness

[Project_Mayhem]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress had recommended Uniseals to add a pump out to a portapottie. I'm in the process of adding a fill port to my fresh, flush tank on my portapottie. I have everything, including a Uniseal but noticed that the minimum tank thickness is 1/8". My blow molded tank is much thinner. Will this be an issue? I can cut out a piece of plastic as a spacer. I'm pretty confident that BedIt will work well as a seal between the two pieces of plastic. I attached a garden hose to the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket and BedIT worked well.

Note: This tank contains freshwater that is used for the head only. It's roughly 4-5 gallons so if it leaks, it's not catastrophic

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Uniseal got back to me. They said as long as the tank wall is stiff enough to hold it's shape it should be good. Adding thickness won't hurt either

 

[George Braun]

Uniseal was a great and very inexpensive option for me repairing a leaking fitting on a black tank.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You can always put a rubber gasket under the flange on the outside of the tank.

--Peggie

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Thanks for recommending Uniseal @Peggie Hall HeadMistress! While a vendor told me it's not necessary, I cut a piece of scrap plastic like you recommended for a gasket.

I received a copy of your book yesterday. Was it KO or CP cleaner that you sold to Raritan? Being and enzymatic cleaner, would this be good for a stinky bilge and engine compartment (they're all connected for drainage)? I have some PureAre Marine for afterwards. Would you recommend a gas or electric pressure washer?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

K.O. and C.P. are two of the products I sold to Raritan. Raritan only markets C.P. as a bowl cleaner, but it's also an outstanding sump and drain cleaner...a couple of ounces in a sump that's about 1/3 full of water when it can stand at least overnight (the enzymes need time to work) will leave the sump and pump clean and odorfree. Close sink drain seacocks and put about an ounce of CP down the drain...fill the drain with clean water--again when it can stand at least overnight--and you'll have free running and odor-free sink drains. There's nothing in C.P. that can damage plumbing or pumps, so it can be left in them for weeks if necessary.
However, C.P. is too expensive to use as a bilge cleaner because you'd need too much of it and--as you'll learn from my book--real bilge cleaning requires manual labor with a strong solution of detergent (Dawn dish washing liquid is great for this) and scrub brush, or better yet a power washer--electric!-- 'cuz it can get into the places you can't reach even with a long handled brush. You shouldn't need any PureAyre for the bilge but there may be surfaces in the engine room that hold onto residual odors, in which case you'd spray a fine mist of it (I recommend a pump garden spray jug for this) onto every surface, nook and cranny after you've cleaned and all surfaces are at least 90% dry. Do NOT rinse...just let it dry with all hatches open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for at least 24 hours . Fans would help.

Have fun...and I'll be glad to answer any additional questions. If you want to PM me I'll give you my phone # so you can text 'em to me.

--Peggie