Underwater Shaft Anode Replacement Video
- Thread starter fstbttms
- Start date
Soooooooooooooooooooooo ......................... I take it you're looking at how many errors we can find in this video
?
1. The installer did not clean the shaft under the newly installed zincs.
2. Only a screwdriver was used to tighten the machine screws. An Allen wrench would have greatly increased the torque.
Any others ?
?1. The installer did not clean the shaft under the newly installed zincs.
2. Only a screwdriver was used to tighten the machine screws. An Allen wrench would have greatly increased the torque.
Any others ?
1.- I had already wire-brushed the shaft prior to installing the anodes.Soooooooooooooooooooooo ......................... I take it you're looking at how many errors we can find in this video
1. The installer did not clean the shaft under the newly installed zincs.
2. Only a screwdriver was used to tighten the machine screws. An Allen wrench would have greatly increased the torque.
Any others ?
2.- Having installed many thousands of anodes over the course of my 22 years in the hull cleaning biz, I can assure you that there is no problem using slotted machine screws. The anodes I install do not come loose because of the fasteners with which they are supplied.
Anything else?
3. He did not take a mallet to it to seat it properly and then re-tighten the Allen screws.
4. I did see him clean the inside of the anodes with a wire brush or some other tool to remove any residue left from the manufacturing process.
5. In lieu of a mallet, a clamp tightened on the anode and the screws tightened some more accomplishes the same thing. Probably even more so.
I would not want this guy replacing my anodes.
Anything else?
4. I did see him clean the inside of the anodes with a wire brush or some other tool to remove any residue left from the manufacturing process.
5. In lieu of a mallet, a clamp tightened on the anode and the screws tightened some more accomplishes the same thing. Probably even more so.
I would not want this guy replacing my anodes.
Anything else?
You're even less of an expert than he is. One who is apparently in the habit of using inferior anodes.
Should be 2 inches in front of the cutless bearing. In case the shaft pulled out of the flange, there won't be a hole in the boat.
Well, that's not exactly standard practice, even in a boatyard. But I'm interested- what do you estimate the distance between the strut and the anode is?
Great video. I assume that's a hot dock since you installed two anodes. The strut anode looks pretty well done (mine last about a haul out 3-5 years). FWIW, I have never seen a diver use anything other than a flat blade screwdriver. What is that you are tucking the crew into on your gloved wrist? I assume you don't need to carry a spare screw since there is one on the old anode. I never see anyone using a S/S screwdriver. But I have seen plenty forgotten on the dock. I assume that's why
Not a hot dock, just replacing what the boat came to me with. I don't add or subtract anodes unless there is a compelling need. If the boat came to me with two shaft anodes, I maintain it with two shaft anodes. Plus, two anodes provide protection twice as long as one. That's cheap insurance. I also replaced the strut and the Max Prop anodes. Just didn't include those shots in this video.Great video. I assume that's a hot dock since you installed two anodes. The strut anode looks pretty well done (mine last about a haul out 3-5 years). FWIW, I have never seen a diver use anything other than a flat blade screwdriver. What is that you are tucking the crew into on your gloved wrist? I assume you don't need to carry a spare screw since there is one on the old anode. I never see anyone using a S/S screwdriver. But I have seen plenty forgotten on the dock. I assume that's why
I'm tucking the first anode screw into my glove wrist band. It's there for me when I'm ready to screw it in. I don't drop many screws any more. In fact, if you look closely, you'll see that I catch the screw that falls out of the depleted anode while I'm removing it.
Nope!
To the others...
1) Zinc body does NOT need to be in contact with the shaft. (the bronze contacts do)
2) Shaft does not need to be wire brushed, but doesn't hurt, for peace of mind. Torque does it!
3) Torque does NOT need to be great. SS shafts are very hard and the over torque does nothing.
He proves the point of 2 zincs not a problem.
Good job!
Jim...
I learn that from a boat yard. Put your anode close enough to the struts but still allow free water flow. They told me one time a boat didn't have a torque bolt on the shaft and the flange got pulled out when backing up. The shaft left the stern tube and almost sunk the boat. Lucky it was tied up to a slip.
I get why you'd do it, but you were one of the crowd eager to point out supposed "errors" in my anode installation technique. So I asked you how just far away from the strut do you I think I installed the anode, based on what you see in the video. You didn't answer that question.
What brand of anodes do you use? I have never seen anodes with slotted screws, only socket head cap screws. Do you replace the screws when you get them? A thumbnail is about an inch long so I'd guess the first anode to the left is 2 to 2.5 inches from the strut. I don't usually use a hammer on them to seat them, I just whack them with the body of my allen wrench set several times. I like the idea of a c-clamp and will try that, only problem is its' another tool to dive with. Anodes I've used have screw retainer plastic washers so you don't have to completely remove the screws, you still run the risk of dropping a half an anode, and in the video it looks like you came close. I also like to work the screws more evenly by not tightening fully and then taking a half or full turn on each screw at a time until they are fully tight. I try to get the gap between the halves equal on each side when fully tight.
I usually use Camp anodes with the copper conductor in them. I try to stay away from the brand you mentioned because of high cost if nothing else. To clean the shaft I take a sheet of emory cloth and fold it into a long thin strip and then use it like shining shoes. Never tried the wire brush method, is that easier?
No offense, but I wouldn't wish Camp zincs on my worst enemy. And any anode that requires a brass insert to improve connectivity is inferior, IMHO.
I use both a wire brush and sandpaper. Not always both and not every time. Depends on what fouling growth and/or deposits are on the shaft.