I have a 1994 Hunter 29.5. I have just discovered that the pan under the forward berth between the mast and the forpeak on which sits the water heater has disintegrated. It is plywood with a veneer of fiberglass and is coming apart in pieces. Anyone else have this experience and what have you done to repair it??
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How large is the platform.
David: How large is the platform? The one under our water heater is not in very good shape either. I think that if I were to replace it, I would probably use a piece of poly board (white cutting board). You can get this cut to size at Tap Plastics. It handles like wood but is much more durable. If this is falling apart, you should also inspect your water heater to make sure that it is not leaking. This is ususally an indication that water is getting to the area.
David: How large is the platform? The one under our water heater is not in very good shape either. I think that if I were to replace it, I would probably use a piece of poly board (white cutting board). You can get this cut to size at Tap Plastics. It handles like wood but is much more durable. If this is falling apart, you should also inspect your water heater to make sure that it is not leaking. This is ususally an indication that water is getting to the area.
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David Hampton
Platform size
Thanks for the response. This particular platform goes from under the forward settee to the forpeak and from side to side. It seems to be in two parts. The water heater sits on the forward part and the knotmeter and depthsounder throughulls are located under it under the settee. This area near the knotmeter is the worst and is probably from water entering while cleaning the transducer. So much water came in the only time I tried it that I just leave it alone and go without a knotmeter except for periods after the bottom is cleaned.
Thanks for the response. This particular platform goes from under the forward settee to the forpeak and from side to side. It seems to be in two parts. The water heater sits on the forward part and the knotmeter and depthsounder throughulls are located under it under the settee. This area near the knotmeter is the worst and is probably from water entering while cleaning the transducer. So much water came in the only time I tried it that I just leave it alone and go without a knotmeter except for periods after the bottom is cleaned.
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Tim Leighton
OUCH!
David: I had the same problem with the pan under my water heater as Steve (he and I have the same boat - '85 31's). In our case, the heaters are very likely on their last legs and I'm sure need to be replaced. I advised the new owners a new heater and mounting plate needed to be in their budget. I'll recommend to them they follow Steve's advice about the material. In your case, your heater is relatively new and should still be in good shape, so replacement of just the pan support below should suffice. I would like to quickly discuss your brief mention of non-use of your knotmeter. You are not a lone ranger when you said you stopped cleaning the impeller between sails because of the amount of water that gets into the boat every time you pull the thing. I was concerned about the same thing as well when I first bought TIDE in 86. The impeller/ depthsounder transducers on my boat are located in a very shallow pan directly abeam the head and just forward of the bilge. Not a lot of room for water to go except all over the cabin sole! A good friend and fellow 31 owner showed me a simple "trick" to keep water intrusion to a minimum. It may work for you. First of all, you have to have a blank impeller plug for your knotmeter (one should have come with the unit. If not, you can get one from the manufacturer). Second, get a fairly large bath-type towel and cover the area where the transducer is. I loosen everything up and place the blank right next to the impeller before I proceed to the next step of removing the impeller. Quickly remove the impeller and replace it with the blank, all under the towel. Some water does come in, but very little - about a quart, before I get the plug in. In our case, I leave the plug in until we use the boat again and then reverse the process. The towel both holds down the amount of water intrusion and keeps it from spraying all over the place. I hate to see you not using your knotmeter. After all, you paid for it! Hopefully my system will work for you. Good luck with your HW heater mount problem. Keep reminding yourself this is fun!!! Smooth Sailing. Tim Leighton (S. Chesapeake Bay)
David: I had the same problem with the pan under my water heater as Steve (he and I have the same boat - '85 31's). In our case, the heaters are very likely on their last legs and I'm sure need to be replaced. I advised the new owners a new heater and mounting plate needed to be in their budget. I'll recommend to them they follow Steve's advice about the material. In your case, your heater is relatively new and should still be in good shape, so replacement of just the pan support below should suffice. I would like to quickly discuss your brief mention of non-use of your knotmeter. You are not a lone ranger when you said you stopped cleaning the impeller between sails because of the amount of water that gets into the boat every time you pull the thing. I was concerned about the same thing as well when I first bought TIDE in 86. The impeller/ depthsounder transducers on my boat are located in a very shallow pan directly abeam the head and just forward of the bilge. Not a lot of room for water to go except all over the cabin sole! A good friend and fellow 31 owner showed me a simple "trick" to keep water intrusion to a minimum. It may work for you. First of all, you have to have a blank impeller plug for your knotmeter (one should have come with the unit. If not, you can get one from the manufacturer). Second, get a fairly large bath-type towel and cover the area where the transducer is. I loosen everything up and place the blank right next to the impeller before I proceed to the next step of removing the impeller. Quickly remove the impeller and replace it with the blank, all under the towel. Some water does come in, but very little - about a quart, before I get the plug in. In our case, I leave the plug in until we use the boat again and then reverse the process. The towel both holds down the amount of water intrusion and keeps it from spraying all over the place. I hate to see you not using your knotmeter. After all, you paid for it! Hopefully my system will work for you. Good luck with your HW heater mount problem. Keep reminding yourself this is fun!!! Smooth Sailing. Tim Leighton (S. Chesapeake Bay)
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Andy Falls
I think I know what you are talking about
Look for an email response on the subject soon. I thought there was something in the Archives but was unable to find it. big question-can that be installed without tearing the boat apart?
Look for an email response on the subject soon. I thought there was something in the Archives but was unable to find it. big question-can that be installed without tearing the boat apart?
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Andy Falls
You've got mail
I sent a looong explanation about this through the Owner's Directory but it came back undeliverable. Send me your email address and I'll tell you what we've done so far on this project. My address is afalls@yahoo.com
I sent a looong explanation about this through the Owner's Directory but it came back undeliverable. Send me your email address and I'll tell you what we've done so far on this project. My address is afalls@yahoo.com
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Dave f
forward underberth disintegration
I have the same problem. The good news is that a surveyor told me that the flooring is NOT structural.... so haven't got to replacing it! I removed the water heater and found that my leak was from the overheat relief valve. I intend to use white poly board ($$$!!) for replacment.
I have the same problem. The good news is that a surveyor told me that the flooring is NOT structural.... so haven't got to replacing it! I removed the water heater and found that my leak was from the overheat relief valve. I intend to use white poly board ($$$!!) for replacment.
White Poly board cost
If you are using white poly board, there is no reason to use King Board/Sea board or any of the UV stabilized stuff. While that stuff is good for what it is intended it is a waste of money for this application. If you can go to a kitchen supply they may have cutting boards that are big enough. The question here is it thick enough. Unlike plywood it may need to be supported. Most plastics supply companies also sell this stuff. You can cut it with normal wood working tools. Be careful because it chips a lot, especially if you use a router on it.
If you are using white poly board, there is no reason to use King Board/Sea board or any of the UV stabilized stuff. While that stuff is good for what it is intended it is a waste of money for this application. If you can go to a kitchen supply they may have cutting boards that are big enough. The question here is it thick enough. Unlike plywood it may need to be supported. Most plastics supply companies also sell this stuff. You can cut it with normal wood working tools. Be careful because it chips a lot, especially if you use a router on it.
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