Un-stepping and re-stepping a mast.

[Damifudo]

I am running through the jobs I need to do, on the new to us Catalina 1988 Tall rig, One need is to remove the mast and do a complete check and replacement of the standing rig. I have never done this but I am a bit do it yourself person and I have access to a bucket truck from work that the bottom of the bucket goes 37 feet and the lifting capacity is 300 lbs. Would you think this could handle a mast removal and install or should I plan on a crane. The nice thing with the bucket truck is you can get back up the mast to unstrap it. I hope to do this next fall unless someone tells me I need to replace some shrouds sooner rather than later. I am surprised there is no videos on youtube of someone doing a mast stepping on a Catalina 30. If you have any please share them.

List for a mast service that I am aware of at this point.

1. new standing rig.
2. new antenna wires and maybe antenna.
3. inspect and replace mast head pulleys as needed
4. seal around mast base
5. Wind vane or Garmin G wind if I have any $ left.

 

[Benny17441]

Unless you have detected corrosion damage or broken strands or have knowledge of any accidental damage to the rigging I would not decide to replace it until a thorough inspection was concluded. I'm assuming the rigging is original and is 27 years old. If in doubt get a rigger to do the inspection. There is a maxim about boats in general and that is "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" as there is a significant risk when tinkering with something that something else will break or will be weakened to where it may need a future repair in a short time. All the other maintenance items that you have listed are usually conducted from the crunching comfort of a bosum chair and do not require dropping the mast. Replacing the standing rigging in materials alone is expensive so if after a thorough inspection you find that there is no need to replace it at this time you may have the money, even after paying a rigger for the inspection, to get that coveted Garmin G Wind. I don't really know the capabilities of the bucket truck so I will not comment on its use but if this is the first time that you could be dropping the mast why not pay to have the marina or yard do it and watch and learn. I imagine you will be hauling the boat out anyway so just pay a little more and let them do it. It is not rocket science but it does have it's doe's and don'ts.

 

[ArkadiyS]

We had to take our mast down, due to leaks in the cabin through the compression post, and had a rigging spe ialist come out to assess. After 27 years in service, I would just replace the main shrouds. Also, check the bobstay. Ours was broken, but there was virtually no way of knowing it until i took of the old one. Just lucky! Also consider replacing lights, with either LEDs or newer ones...again, if needed. We also replaced jib halyard and ran a new coax cable. After that many years, these things are at or beyond life expectancy. I also agree that once you start touching things, you will end up replacing them. We have an 85 tall rig as well.

 

[woodster]

I have access to a bucket truck from work that the bottom of the bucket goes 37 feet and the lifting capacity is 300 lbs.

that is very close to a don't do it that way ...even though there is a safety factor incorporated in the 300# don't do it that way..... either get a boom truck with a 65 ft boom or more and rig with a 5/8 line the bucket thing is just too risky at that weight capacity...as for all the other things on that mast replace them all ...lights , wiring , and all your wire rope and terminals ......also inspect the tangs and spreader mounting brackets ...as for the running rigging and shevs when in doubt replace it as well ...as Benny has said get a rigger to do this and learn from the first time it will be money well spent over time ...it is really cheap education .... as for the wind indicators keep it simple a windex is a good option

 

[Richard Bryer]

Interesting- the boom truck thing. Our club bought a polcat boom truck several years ago just for that reason- to remove masts. I don't know the weight capacity but it handles the heaviest masts in the club- including a Whitby 45. If the weight capacity was more than 300 lbs I would say it is a good solution. The bucket is removed on ours and the height is probably more than 37 feet- however we lift with a line around the mast just above the balance point and tied off at the bottom. This means on my 45 foot mast the boom is probably about 23 feet above the deck/ ground level. It works well- we remove masts each fall and raise them each spring.

 

[njlarry]

Interesting- the boom truck thing. Our club bought a polcat boom truck several years ago just for that reason- to remove masts. I don't know the weight capacity but it handles the heaviest masts in the club- including a Whitby 45. If the weight capacity was more than 300 lbs I would say it is a good solution. The bucket is removed on ours and the height is probably more than 37 feet- however we lift with a line around the mast just above the balance point and tied off at the bottom. This means on my 45 foot mast the boom is probably about 23 feet above the deck/ ground level. It works well- we remove masts each fall and raise them each spring.

I am curious how you rig the hoist boom to the mast and then free the mast from the boom after raising without climbing the mast. I am sure you have worked out a good system doing the fleet every year.

 

[Richard Bryer]

The line to hoist the mast is simply run under itself at the hoist point and then run straight down the mast and tied around it under the gooseneck fitting to keep it from sliding up. It does require hoisting someone up the mast to the hoist point in a bosun's chair when taking the mast down. When raising the mast the line can be pulled away from the mast with the polcat boom after untieing the bottom. There are ways of attaching the sling line without having to climb or be hoisted- Claude do you still have your documentation of how you do it?

 

[Padrone]

To step and unstep the mast on my Cat 30TR we make up a sling using a large bowline sufficiently loose to allow it to slide up the mast to the required height just below the spreaders. Another loop in the line attaches to the hook or whatever is used to raise the line. From the loops the line descends to be secured at the bottom of the mast within easy reach. When re positioning the mast the loop will drop down to the base once the shrouds have been secured.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

The line to hoist the mast is simply run under itself at the hoist point and then run straight down the mast and tied around it under the gooseneck fitting to keep it from sliding up. It does require hoisting someone up the mast to the hoist point in a bosun's chair when taking the mast down. When raising the mast the line can be pulled away from the mast with the polcat boom after untieing the bottom. There are ways of attaching the sling line without having to climb or be hoisted- Claude do you still have your documentation of how you do it?

Here is how I do it Richard. I don't have any pictures but to avoid climbing the mast when stepping it up, I simply use the same controlling line I had attached to the bowline. After mast is secured, undo the knot below the gooseneck and slowly release pressure on the hoisting cable with someone pulling on the controlled line from the side. In my case the boat is on the water and the pulling is done from the shore which help with the angle. As you pull on that line, the one that was attached below the gooseneck will creep out of the bowline at mid-mast and eventually fall to the deck. Voila ! No mast climbing. Good luck. Claude

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Hey, Im late getting on this thread, but I'm getting set to pull he mast on my standard rig this winter. I'll be using the marina's staff and crane to lift the mast, so am less concerned with the 'equipment' and more with the process.
The internal wires on my '82 all seem to go down into the deck where they're laminated into the headliner.
When the stick is lifted a bit, what's to be expected? Some type of quick-connect on the wires just before they enter the deck, or am I going to be cutting?
Thanks!

 

[hvbaker]

Hey, Im late getting on this thread, but I'm getting set to pull he mast on my standard rig this winter. I'll be using the marina's staff and crane to lift the mast, so am less concerned with the 'equipment' and more with the process. The internal wires on my '82 all seem to go down into the deck where they're laminated into the headliner. When the stick is lifted a bit, what's to be expected? Some type of quick-connect on the wires just before they enter the deck, or am I going to be cutting? Thanks!

On mine there is a socket.

 

[Damifudo]

From what I understand there is a connector.

 

[markwbird]

The mast is more than 300 lbs and I am guessing it's taller than 37 ft.

 

[timweed]

We step and unstep every season because the top of the crane at the launch is too low to allow the mast to remain standing. (most of the boats at the marina are powerboats) As has been pointed out, once it is lifted it must steered so that the foot of the mast goes forward to a support resting on the pulpit, and the mast head rests on a support resting on the pushpit. Accomplishing this is always an adventure, and I never relax until it is resting horizontal on the two supports.
However often you choose to step and unstep it, disconnecting and connecting the wiring at the mast can be a struggle or at the very least inconvenient. Years ago, probably after the first year of stepping and unstepping, I decided to do something about the spaghetti that gets disconnected at unstepping, and at stepping,reconnected and crammed into the mast just before it is set onto the mast step. I drilled out the hole through the step angling it so that it would pass through into the top of the cabin at the junction of the ceiling and the port bulkhead on the salon side. I then fitted a 1" piece of PVC pipe into the hole,letting the top of the piece project above the step 1" or so, sealing it with silicone to prevent leakage. I then built a teak junction box next to the mast post to conceal the connections. As I recall, there was enough wire inside the mast to feed it through the tube and into the junction box. If not you could splice and extend the wires.
The VHF wiring uses the existing connectors , the mast head instrument wiring and all the lighting are connected to a terminal block. Before the mast is unstepped, everything from the junction box into the mast is disconnected. When the mast is raised, all the mast wiring is pulled up and out and stuffed into the foot of the mast. After the first year I stuffed towels into the mast foot and cut a bleach bottle up to make a cap... the starlings had made a comfortable home inside and did not install indoor plumbing... Stepping is simply the reverse, When the mast is raised into position, replace the wiring through the conduit and pull out the slack from below as the mast is lowered into place. Reconnect at your leisure after the mast is stepped and a beer has eased the tension. Hope this isn't too much information. I'm not a camera person, so I use a thousand words to create a picture ;>)

 

[Damifudo]

How much would you say the mast and rigging weigh?

 

[woodster]

How much would you say the mast and rigging weigh?

on the safe side some where between 400# and 550# on that 30 ft boat that may be a little high ...but as i said to be on the safe side ...when rigging your always err on the side of caution

 

[25yearslater]

I might be able to help with this. I shipped my mast to Charleston Spar for the reanodize and powdercoat. Because I was using USF Holland the weight had to be determined. The mast without rigging was 105 LBS. This is 33' 1/2". Masts are relatively light being extruded aluminum. Here is a link to Rig Rite and the weight per foot table for masts. If your mast is different return to spars and click on the appropriate mast and section. http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spartan_Spars/SPARTAN.html

 

[shemandr]

Damifudo, you are going to need help no matter what technique you use. You would be well served to find some people who have experience at this on boat's your size or bigger. And since there's a risk of injury there should be insurance for your helpers. While friends may be willing and able to help, if they are injured and can't work, or worse, you will have a very bad situation. From a practical point of view, this may mean paying the yard to do it would be wise.

 

[woodster]

When the mast comes down from a fully rigged bout it has all the rigging hard and soft along with all the hardest and antennas and electronic accessories mounted and can be quite heavy so always allow for that then double the weight to creat a Safty factor and use a crane that can handle twice that amount you never know when the weight is on the hook ..... There may be a hard blow start up when you are suspending the weight un attached with only a tag line and that can get Harry as hell till you land the load

 

[Richard Bryer]

A lot of good advice here. I would certainly second the thought of having someone help who has done it before. Or go and help a couple of people do theirs. It is a good idea to know what to expect. I have known a couple of masts at our club to topple overboard during the process and it is very scary and dangerous. Don't rush the process and pick as calm a day as possible.
Yours is a deck stepped mast and there should be a connector for each of the wiring cables under the mast. You need to lift it a few inches to see- there is probably enough slack to lift it about a foot then reach under and disconnect. That is the part I did NOT like- the reaching under. I cut a small- about 2"X4" in the side of the base and made a ss cover to screw on it. I pull the cables out and disconnect before hoisting the mast- then all you have to do is stuff the boat end back in after lifting a bit. When putting the mast back up, leave the mast ends out the opening and push the boat ends up and out the opening when you have the mast a foot or so off the base. Minimizes the hand time spent under the hoisted mast.
If you look at Fred Ficarra's rebuild site for Epitome in the owner mods section here you should be able to find a picture of the opening and cover panel he made on his mast