Keep 'er flat, move the weight forward to release the wings, and find the best path to deeper water...
Good winds,
Dave
Good winds,
Dave
Un-grounding a Wing Keel
- Thread starter Morgan0505
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Prior to installing a Garman GPS and new depth sounder I ran aground six times. Three escapes were easy, immediately apply full revs in reverse and get everyone on board to run from the port to the starboard rails. It didn't do the impeller any favors and had to be replaced. The other three times were just a matter of patently waiting for the tide to rise and quietly reversing off.
I learnt that before setting off, plan your course, use waypoints and tide charts, groundings were then a thing of the past.
The setting of the reference point for the sounder provided many an interesting discussion amongst my fellow sailors, I believe it should be set to read from the lowest point on the keel so there is no mental calculus involved, besides my wife and guest skippers didn't get confused by the reading. One friend is adamant that it should be set at water level so it relates to all charts, it will be interesting to hear what all you readers think of this.
I learnt that before setting off, plan your course, use waypoints and tide charts, groundings were then a thing of the past.
The setting of the reference point for the sounder provided many an interesting discussion amongst my fellow sailors, I believe it should be set to read from the lowest point on the keel so there is no mental calculus involved, besides my wife and guest skippers didn't get confused by the reading. One friend is adamant that it should be set at water level so it relates to all charts, it will be interesting to hear what all you readers think of this.
IF I need 4 1/2 feet of water to float my boat it is third grade arithmetic to see 6 feet on the depth sounder and know that there is only a foot and half under the keel. If that exercise confuses anyone they need more mental exercise. Their brain is atrophying from lack of use.
It may sound silly, but.....
I know this sounds silly, but think about it. If you have a wing keel, you're not drawing much. As a previous post pointed out 4 1/2 feet. If you're six feet tall, that would be up to your chest. Why not go over the side and push it off in the opposite direction that got you into the jam in the first place?
I've doen this several times while teaching basic sailing on a standard (shallow) keel boat in about four feet of water.
I know this sounds silly, but think about it. If you have a wing keel, you're not drawing much. As a previous post pointed out 4 1/2 feet. If you're six feet tall, that would be up to your chest. Why not go over the side and push it off in the opposite direction that got you into the jam in the first place?
I've doen this several times while teaching basic sailing on a standard (shallow) keel boat in about four feet of water.
And your feet might sink a foot in the mud. Ross you might have to put your nose pretty high in the air
Like so many other things, how you set your depth sounder is just a matter of personal preference.
If your boat draws 4.5 feet, whether you like to see the depth sounder saying 4.5 or 0 when you run aground, you're still aground.
Personally, I set mine to show water under the keel.... that's the way I like it.
If others like it set to water line depth, well, at least it's one of the few remaining choices that one can still make without being charge a fee, a tax, or be in violation of some law or regulation...
Other stuff to consider
Drain the water tanks/put stuff in the dingy (people, spare anchors....heavy stuff)
Only attempt that shoal on a rising tide and never at high tide and go slow. I'm getting the impression that some of us are running aground and it is a surprise to them. I never had that happen yet except that one time the ex-wife was on the cell phone trying to get directions down the creek…… don’t ask.
Use a dingy 1/2 full of water. Row out and set an anchor (you have two right?), row back in and attach the mainsail halyard to the dingy, bail the dingy 1/2 full of water, pull the dingy with the anchor rode to heel the boat. This is analogous to using a weight on a block and traveler line with your anchor rode.
My most effective means though is to set a klieg anchor (from the bow) in deep water and winch myself around then winch and motor off. Turns me toward deep water so the prop can push me off, (fixed and folding props don't work so good in reverse, the ones with twisting blades work much better BTW in both forward, reverse and under sail) and pulls down on the bow to break suction on the fins.
I believe I read this in Chapman's Piloting BTW.
I have successfully pulled myself out of Swan Cr. (hard mud) over a distance of 200 ft of shoal. Anchor drug bad during a thunderstorm. The boat was heeling at about 10 degrees and pointed toward shallow water. Dumped all the fresh water, put the anchor in the dingy and rowed to deeper water till all the rode was out, dumped the anchor, waited about 2 hours till 1/2 hour before high tide (still heeled at that point BTW), hand over handed the rode till we where pointing in the right direction then had the First Mate engage the engine. Hand over handed the rode while she stood by for when we broke free. While it was pretty hard pulling you could tell the boat was moving much better than with the windlass. Kept the strain on the anchor spirit down to IMHO.
On an additional note, I use oars for my dingy. At 8' long they make GREAT depth probes to find where deep water is. Have mine marked at the boats draft so I know when I'm in deep enough water.
Drain the water tanks/put stuff in the dingy (people, spare anchors....heavy stuff)
Only attempt that shoal on a rising tide and never at high tide and go slow. I'm getting the impression that some of us are running aground and it is a surprise to them. I never had that happen yet except that one time the ex-wife was on the cell phone trying to get directions down the creek…… don’t ask.
Use a dingy 1/2 full of water. Row out and set an anchor (you have two right?), row back in and attach the mainsail halyard to the dingy, bail the dingy 1/2 full of water, pull the dingy with the anchor rode to heel the boat. This is analogous to using a weight on a block and traveler line with your anchor rode.
My most effective means though is to set a klieg anchor (from the bow) in deep water and winch myself around then winch and motor off. Turns me toward deep water so the prop can push me off, (fixed and folding props don't work so good in reverse, the ones with twisting blades work much better BTW in both forward, reverse and under sail) and pulls down on the bow to break suction on the fins.
I believe I read this in Chapman's Piloting BTW.
I have successfully pulled myself out of Swan Cr. (hard mud) over a distance of 200 ft of shoal. Anchor drug bad during a thunderstorm. The boat was heeling at about 10 degrees and pointed toward shallow water. Dumped all the fresh water, put the anchor in the dingy and rowed to deeper water till all the rode was out, dumped the anchor, waited about 2 hours till 1/2 hour before high tide (still heeled at that point BTW), hand over handed the rode till we where pointing in the right direction then had the First Mate engage the engine. Hand over handed the rode while she stood by for when we broke free. While it was pretty hard pulling you could tell the boat was moving much better than with the windlass. Kept the strain on the anchor spirit down to IMHO.
On an additional note, I use oars for my dingy. At 8' long they make GREAT depth probes to find where deep water is. Have mine marked at the boats draft so I know when I'm in deep enough water.
Re: Other stuff to consider
The first thing I'd recommend is knowing whether the tide is going in or out and patience. If you aren't badly stuck and the tide is coming in chances are a few hours wait will set you free with no damage to you or your boat.
I grounded at the pump out dock last fall. It took me a while to track down the correct fittings. I ended up calling the harbor master to give me permission to board their pump out boat to get the adapted. After that delay I pumped the holding tank out, gave it a good rinse and then washed down the deck. I then prepared to leave the dock but soon realized I was stuck with about six additional inches of water line showing. I confirmed that the tide had turned and at most I had four hours to wait. I got to work pulling the sails off her, as I was moving her to the marina to be craned out the next day, and by the time I was done she was afloat again.
The first thing I'd recommend is knowing whether the tide is going in or out and patience. If you aren't badly stuck and the tide is coming in chances are a few hours wait will set you free with no damage to you or your boat.
I grounded at the pump out dock last fall. It took me a while to track down the correct fittings. I ended up calling the harbor master to give me permission to board their pump out boat to get the adapted. After that delay I pumped the holding tank out, gave it a good rinse and then washed down the deck. I then prepared to leave the dock but soon realized I was stuck with about six additional inches of water line showing. I confirmed that the tide had turned and at most I had four hours to wait. I got to work pulling the sails off her, as I was moving her to the marina to be craned out the next day, and by the time I was done she was afloat again.
If you don't push the limits, you may miss something... And, I would clean the paint off the transducer if the sea nettles would cut us a break...
Maybe I'll get a lead line...
Maybe I'll get a lead line...
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