Ugly Pedestal/ Nice Improvements

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Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Thank you, Hermit.
Really a good idea.
I have my 26X at a trailer yard on Clear Lake (Galveston Bay).
Might like to try something like you did.
Do you have any plans, drawings or more detailed, close-up pictures?
Would you welcome a visit if I drove down to see your improvement?

Please reply to my direct email.
herb@craftandassoc.com

Regards,

Herb Craft
713/524-2261
Houston
Herb-my boat is at Corpus Christi Marina right now. The dock I am on is dock F, all the way at the end. However there is a gate and a lock on it. I am usually down on Saturday and one day during the week though. I will be moving at the end of this month to Port Aransas marina. It won't be on a locked dock there. And you are welcome to check it out anytime you like. We'll take her for a spin if you catch me on a day I am there. I will add a post here to let you know how I work with the plastic.
 

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Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
This goes for any prototype or one of a kind piece; Go online and study and find the best ideas of everything that is out there. Step 2, you "borrow" them.
I take cardboard, a sharpie and a box cutter and I mock up what I want to build. Then I get comfortable and stare at it for a long time(wine or corona helps), making improvements as they come to me. It's difficult to build something as well as something in production, but when you get finished it is your's! (except for the good ideas you stole, I mean borrowed)

The plastic I bought is something the plastic company said was their most UV resistant material. I imagine it is similar to starboard. IIRC it cost like $180-$200 for a 4'X8'X1/2" thick sheet at a wholesale plastic supply company. It is soft compared to pvc. I bought a sheet of 3/4" pvc and I tear up bits with it left and right. It is too hard.
I use a table saw, router with a router table and a circle jig that I bought. You can make your own though. I used an 1/8" round over bit with a bearing on top, and a straight bit.
One side of the plastic should be covered in a thin transparent cover. Draw your plans on that side. Drill your center holes for the circle jig. Cut the circles, largest first. Then cut the straight edges on a table saw. For the small radii on the corners, I eyeball them and do them with a disc sander. The kind that has a rest in front of it to keep the piece square. Then run the piece over the roundover bit. Scrape off the fuzzies that are on all the edges and voila.
The plastic clamps I made are done by drilling a 1" hole and then cut a notch in it with the table saw. ( done with a drill press to make them go through perpindicular, very important) Drill the hole through it and drive in a 1/4" SS bolt. Drill the threaded part 3/16". Don't thread it just drive the bolt in with an impact. Stopping before you get to the end. Then tighten it by hand. They grip that tube suprisingly well.
You can also drill through and through and put a nut on the end if the design allows.
The more pieces you make the better they get. Plastic is pretty cheap so jsut keep making them and messing them up until you get something you can live with.
It's not for everyone. If I had the money I would just buy what I want. but with some tools, patients and the ability to fail until you get it right, anyone can do it.
 
Oct 6, 2009
129
Newport Newport 28 MKII Jacksonville, FL
Hermit, you mentioned wanting to relocate you speed and depth instruments. 8 years ago, mine died due to a lightning strike and they were mounted on the cockpit bulkhead and someone was always covering them up. I installed the new ones opposite the engine panel on the inside of the cockpit. Easy wiring access from the quarterberth. Now when at the helm, I just glance to the left to see the readouts, set the depth alarm, etc., crew can't block them and the get a little extra protection from the bimini.
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Hermit, you mentioned wanting to relocate you speed and depth instruments. 8 years ago, mine died due to a lightning strike and they were mounted on the cockpit bulkhead and someone was always covering them up. I installed the new ones opposite the engine panel on the inside of the cockpit. Easy wiring access from the quarterberth. Now when at the helm, I just glance to the left to see the readouts, set the depth alarm, etc., crew can't block them and the get a little extra protection from the bimini.
Excellent idea, and alot less work.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Contact the O'Day Master

The pedestal on my O'Day 28 looks very similar to Hermit Scott's (including the condition!) but there is no provision for a guard. The supports for the guard in the photo look as if they could be add-ons. Does anyone know where I could find something like that? I've been pondering for years on how to make some kind of base for adding equipment, including a table.

www.drmarine.com Thay bought out all the old O'day and Pearson stuff. They are also the only outlet I know for Edson seconds and discontinued stuff. Give them a call. I know they can help you.
 
Sep 29, 2008
1,978
Catalina 310 #185 Quantico
Wind Auto Pilot

Hermit, I see you have your sheet to wheel spool installed. How are you coming on the rest of the rig for your wind autopilot?
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Saildog-After looking at access hatches, I definitely think that is the way to go for my doggy door. $50 or so will get one I can use.
rpwilla-I don't think I will be making an actual wind vane any time soon. I am going to try out the sheet to wheel very soon. Now that I am finished fairing in the port lights, I am going to install the furler.
 
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